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quote:Originally posted by pampadori

...K&L seems to throw random parts in a bag and call it a kit.
Ha ha haaa!!! I just pictured opening a head gasket kit and finding a soda can tab and a fishing hook.

-Deek
 

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Discussion Starter #44
so ive got the carbs apart and it looks like all the parts are in good order, just a lot of gunk everywhere. mostly tiny little rust particles (dust). ill just buy new float bowl gaskets, and apparently the diaphragm from the air cutoff valve is missing, so i have to buy the whole valve. im thinking once i get em cleaned and back together, ill clean out the fuel line, replace the inline fuel filter, de-rust the tank, paint the tank, then put it all back together. should be done by tomorrow...umm, or not.
 

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Exhaust: Your neighbors and everyone around will appreciate you taking care of the noise a little.
http://www.supertrapp.com/product_sections/cat.asp?CatID=35
People hate motorcycles with loud pipes. Hate. Hate is a very strong word, and I do mean that people HATE loud motorcycles. Spread the love. Put mufflers on it.

Can be found cheaper than the manufacturer site, but its a good list of sizes and part numbers. They will tuck up cleanly underneath the frame.

Get yourself some newspaper to lay the carbs out on, a good phillips head screwdriver, a thin flathead screwdriver, some assorted small sockets (7-8-9-10mm), and a can of carb or brake cleaner. And nitrile gloves to keep the nasty stuff out of your system. That's all you need to disassemble the carbs.

Lay them out on the newspaper in the order that you disassemeble. Assembly is the opposite. Pull them completely apart, remove all jets. Make sure you can spray cleaner through the jets and see through them completely.

Working on motorcycles is rather straightforward. Just lay things out in order, do lose anything, and don't leave things laying out for a few days because you'll forget how they go back together. Cleaning the carbs should take two hours max.
 

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I like what you've got started. Great choices for controls, speedo, and lights. Don't be so hard on yourself about the result. It's a work in progress (probably always will be). Tidying up the tail-light will likely change the way you feel about it.

I agree with ungawunga about muffling the bike for your neighbors. Here's a link to a CB400T (Geeto's fave bike ever, has clubman's too...probably Geeto's bike now that i think of it...) with what i'm pretty sure is a MAC 2-1 on it (another of Geeto's faves...this HAS to be his bike). I have read that the chrome/surfacing of these pipes are not fantastic, but the i think the lines are nice:

http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/1486961/

The header pipes might look better taped anyway. I've read on this site and others that the CB400 and CB450 twins can suffer in performance when the exhaust collector is removed. That said i've seen a few photos of CB/CM400's with these 2-1's on so maybe they work. When you get your carbs sorted out, i'm curious to know how it's running without the collector.

Nice bike all around. Who supplied your clip-ons?
 

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Discussion Starter #47
bike started for the first time yesterday evening. LOUD AS HELL. definitely gonna consider some kind of exhaust/mufflers. fired up again this am and rode around the block, no pegs and no rear brake, stock shifter lever on backwards so i shifted gp style up through 3rd in my neighborhood. idle speed needs to be adjusted up, but theres an adjustment screw for that.

i might just be getting used to the clutch, but the bike feels pretty weak. also, after a 5 minute warmup and a few more minutes around the block, the left header (which was cold before the carb rebuild) is HOT, while the right is only sort of hot (pretty warm for sure, but not 2nd-degree-burn hot like the left). feel like im getting some misfiring/backfiring. im thinking new plugs. anybody?

carbs are cleaned, assembled, reinstalled. turned out i was missing the air cutoff valve diaphragm, which i replaced along with the float bowl gaskets. other than that just cleaned everything with a combo of WD-40, carb cleaner, gasoline soak, air compressor, q-tips, and toothbrush. i did lose a washer in the garage, so fab'd one to replace it. looks like i still have some kind of problem, as i am still leaking gas out of the left bowl's drain valve, even though the drain screw is seated and the o-ring is new. no biggie as long as i leave the petcock off when not riding. it doesnt leak when running, only after sitting for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
ps. hope all us americans had a good thanksgiving. i know i did. had a buddy in for the weekend, and got the bike started *finally* while he was here.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
vesuvio: i think i was writing those posts while you were writing yours. so, i think you were right about the performance drop. thanks for the link/tip/encouragement, and the clip-ons are from champ. tommaselli knockoffs, here on caferacer.net under parts for sale.
 

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looks good. i know where you are coming from with all the time and work and not seeing what everyone else sees. other than the mags i like it a lot. on another site i saw a seat with a removable cowl like you want to do. he used a cowl from a newer euro triumph. i will try to find a link for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
so, im thinking ill go ahead and put the stock exhaust back on, we'll see how that does with the uni pods i have on it now. it will at the least sort out the noise level. this means ill have to clean off some surface rust from the bottom of both mufflers and some acid staining from the top of the right muffler, as well as patching the *punctured* collector...ah, well.

in the meantime, im having an issue with the right cylinder only firing some of the time. i have so little power that its almost impossible to start moving in 1st, and i cannot shift past 2nd gear. i have new ngk plugs, will try those and check my wires/boots first, if that doesnt help, does anyone know (maybe geeto) whether/how i can adjust the ignition timing on the CDI?
 

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Discussion Starter #55
griff: put new plugs in, battery was nearly dead. charged last night, now at work. will check coils if it still has issues. i think my manual has a how-to for checking them, as well as timing.

pampadori: when i say, "i rebuilt the carbs," i mean, "i cleaned the carbs very well, and bought new float bowl gaskets and a new air cutoff valve, as the diaphragm was missing from the one i have, and i put em back together."
 

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Discussion Starter #56
so im a dumbass. i made the mistake common to newbs everywhere: did not make sure i had a good running engine before i started working on the aesthetics.

I had wondered where the oil on the bike was coming from. drain bolt had a little weeping and gearshift a little too, but im talking some serious oil sprayed on everything behind the engine. mind you the exhaust is headers-only at the moment. ive also wondered why my right cylinder is not firing the way it should, carbs cleaned, electrics good, coils, wires, plugs...hmm. never did a compression test. dont have a tester.

yesterday im trying to trace the oil leak, i see a glimmer inside the right header pipe, put a couple fingers in, what do i get? oil. black oil. so what, rings? engine rebuild? shit. what should i do?

thanks.
 

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Probably rings, possibly valve guide seals. Do a leak down and/or compression test. Or the oil is overfull and pumped it out the breather into the airbox.

Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #58
no airbox. uni pods, the breather has a little pod, too. too bad i know almost nothing about engines, or i would understand what valve guide seals are. thanks anyway. i should do a compression test to be sure, but the thing is that i know the cylinder is not firing properly anyway...shit.
 

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the best way to learn about engines is to work on them. start digging.. if it is over your head try to find a shop that you can bring the motor to and have them do it for you. call first i get shops that wont work on "old stuff" and try to get me to buy a new bike.
 
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