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Just thought I would share some pics of the beast I picked up for $200. Its a 76 750K. The guy I got it from got frustrated with it.....he couldnt get it to start. Its a snotter but with a little work should be a nice ride. Motor already has the finned chrome goodies.

All it took was a new set of plugs<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> I had to fix some hacking that was done to the ignition switch. He had moved it up on the bar clamps and had 3 splices in between the switch and the plug where it hooks to main harness. Starter circuit has some issues. I think I have narrowed it down to the starter safety switch or the solenoid. I can jump the terminals on the solenoid and it works..<img src=icon_smile_dead.gif border=0 align=middle>

The clutch was stuck from sitting for a year. After I got it started and warmed up, I figured I would put it in gear and see if the tranny worked. When I did it jumped and stalled, so I put it in 3rd or 4th and pushed it a little to break it free.

Havent had it on the road yet.....wanna get a Cafe seat for it. I just have the seat off of my Kawa H1 on it so I could test it out in the yard and driveway today. Not enough room to stretch its legs but at least I know the tranny shifts thru 3rd fine.

Now that I know it runs OK.....gonna start cleaning and stripping to get it ready for paint/powdercoating. Gonna scavenge the Clubmans and fairing from my H1....since its quite a ways from being on the road yet. The Kerker exhaust is rusty on the outside but solid.

Im thinking of painting it the color of the side covers. The PO had fixed cracks in them and painted them a candy or pearl purple. It doesnt look bad in person. Might get him to do the tank and seat pod when I get it.

Love the forum...lots of good info to be found here.











Edited by - Zeke on Jan 21 2006 01:50:22 AM
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the welcome Geeto.

Heres a few pics of my 74 H1. I got it from my neighbor for the price of a battery and a carb rebuild on his Honda 3 wheeler...about $75 <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> He bought it new in 74 and didnt like the "crotch rocket" look.....so he did this to it.<img src=icon_smile_blush.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_dead.gif border=0 align=middle> He quit riding it in 81 after it burnt/cracked 2 sets of rings in same cylinder. Only has 2999 miles on the clock. Its still a long way from being able to ride it......so Im scavenging the Cafe parts for the CB. First thing I did was take all the chopper crap off of it.....ape hangers, 8" ext forks, K/Q seat....etc. I didnt care if it ran or not....that stuff had to go! lol He still had the stock "cherry" seat and tail light pod. I had to find a set of forks though.













Edited by - Zeke on Jan 22 2006 02:48:07 AM
 

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Zeke, welcome and nice score on the H1. Next time you see Joe Dirt, see if he has anything else he wants to sell! Maybe a Cutlass or something...
The CB looks like a good starter project. Good luck with 'em both.

FR
 

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If it is rusty, paint it black. If it doesn't work and you don't need it get rid of it.

Nice H1. I have about 4 myself in various states, matches the number of cb750s I have.

A couple of words of advice on the cb750: 75 and 76 are pretty close kin but there are a lot of little motor differences that I doubt you'll ever run into. however when buying a tank or a petcock, 75/76 are on the left and use a different petcock than 1970-1974. I am pretty sure the petcock for a 1979 supersport will work on it if you need a new one and they are available new from honda (for pretty close to the price of a pingle so it may be worth it instead). 77-78 are different animals from your 76 so stay away from parts for them.

Even though your carbs are pretty good if you are looking for a carb upgrade you can either go for a set from 1970-1971 (which will be expensive) or use a set from a 1975-76 supersport (which will be a lot cheaper). 75 and 76 are the most restricted cb750s due to emissions and while the carbs are the make, there are enough subtle differences in the other carbs to help get more power. On the other hand the 75/76 carbs are the most reliable honda carbs and I have not had to synch mine in 5 years of hard riding (every year I test them and they are never out). Pod filters on a cb are a mistake but k&n does make a free flow filter to fit the stock cb750 airbox.

Dual disc conversions are pretty common. Some people convert the cb750 wheel to dual disc and either run without a speedo or make their own speedo drive to clear the second disc. I prefer a 1975-1977 goldwing front end swap: 37mm forks plus an aluminum rim and the calipers are better than the cb calipers (they are beefier but heavier). The gold wing front end bolts right on to the cb750 neck and was a common swap done by dealers back in the day.

Brakes aside, a cheapie way to get an aluminum rim is to find the rims off a cb750A hondamatic (preferrably 1976 or 1977 wire spoke - 1978 has comstars). The cb750A came with aluminum rims from the factory but use the same hubs as a cb750K. I used to buy beat up hondamatics swap rims with my steel cb750 rims and then either resell the bike or part it out - in the end I usually ended up with a cheap or free set of aluminum rims. you can also use a 75-77 goldwing spoke front rim but must swap all your hardware over from the cb750.

so long as you are going to put a custom seat on there and may be in need of a tank, try and score a 1975-1978 supersport tank. They have a breadbox shape, hold more fuel (b/c they are longer) and look more like a works tank. They will fit your frame fine but wont work with a stock K seat.

cb750 starters are pretty handy but most cb750s don't have enough juice to spin the starter unless they sit on the battery tender all night. The bike has a kickstart, use it - you can shed 20 lbs from the bikeby ditching the starter. it only complicates things anyway. That being said I retained most of my starters because I like peoples faces when I say kick and electric - lets see your harley do that.

1976 still runs the controls through the handlebars. pain in the arse. rather than butcher your clubmans get a cheap set of clipons with open top ends and drill only one hole for the bar wiring. Use gromets from home depot for the freshly drilled holes and you should be set. you can also either grab a set of 1978 switches which run outside the bars, or grind your switch down to run outside the bars. I don't like clubmans on cb750s because they usually require the cables to run some tight curves to clear the gauges and take up the extra length. Clipones give you more asjustability and just look cooler.

check out some sites for more helpful info:

http://www.sohc4.us/

http://www.cb750cafe.com/

http://www.hondachopper.com/ (I can score a lot of stock parts for pretty cheap here)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks Geeto........thats some good informative info.

Im wanting to lower the bike....front and rear. Not really up on lowering blocks. Have heard I could use a shorter rear shock. Any particular model bike to get them from?

Also front forks. Im wanting to do away with the gaiters and just go with a dust seal. To do this I would have to get different forks anyway since mine are rusted under the gaiters at the top....bad. What forks from what bike would get me lower?

I stripped it down last night...sort of. Took all the body work off so I could get in the nooks and crannys to clean some stuff up. Got all the engine chrome cleaned with 0000 steel wool....still gonna go over it with some cleaner/polish. Started on the wheels and spokes but they are gonna take some time. The exhaust is next.<img src=icon_smile_dead.gif border=0 align=middle>

Edited by - Zeke on Jan 22 2006 1:31:26 PM
 

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quote:
thanks Geeto........thats some good informative info.

Im wanting to lower the bike....front and rear. Not really up on lowering blocks. Have heard I could use a shorter rear shock. Any particular model bike to get them from?

Also front forks. Im wanting to do away with the gaiters and just go with a dust seal. To do this I would have to get different forks anyway since mine are rusted under the gaiters at the top....bad. What forks from what bike would get me lower?

I stripped it down last night...sort of. Took all the body work off so I could get in the nooks and crannys to clean some stuff up. Got all the engine chrome cleaned with 0000 steel wool....still gonna go over it with some cleaner/polish. Started on the wheels and spokes but they are gonna take some time. The exhaust is next.<img src=icon_smile_dead.gif border=0 align=middle>

Edited by - Zeke on Jan 22 2006 1:31:26 PM
stay away from lowering blocks. Some people like them but I have never liked the design nor had a good expirence with them (they eventually crack the shock mounts on the arm).

11" short shocks available from cycle exchange for $99 (toward the bottom):
http://www.cyclexchange.net/Accessories Page.htm

This is probably about as low as you can go without hitting the fender depending on your weight. I'm a fat fuck so I don't even bother - I either hardtail it or raise the suspension for better handeling (I usually cb900F shocks for this b/c they are showa and cheap)


Cycle exhancge specalizes in cb750 chopper stuff.

http://www.cyclexchange.net/

They do a great job with a lot of stuff and a lot can be used on cafe bikes. One thing I espically love is the dual carb setup. questionable on how much better it runs but for ease of tune and badass cafe looks you can't beat it. Pricey though ($400+).

http://www.cyclexchange.net/Carb System Comp Page.htm

As for your front forks, I forget which but there is a dust seal cap that fits, I think your h1 dust seal might work also. honda forks are 35mm, so there are a lot of common front ends that might work but you would have to make custom spacers and space the calipers out. Here is my take on front forks. If there is no rust or pits anywhere near where the slider travels, and there is not rot at the top (must be structurally sound) the mask off the area by the sliders, and grind and paint the top of the forks. It is a cheapie method but it works and it gives them an old time look, espically when I paint them black and add a gold pinstripe seperating them from the chrome. AS for lowering the best way it to slide the forks up in the trees. This is why I recomend clipons because it keeps the bike from looking stupid with fork tops sticking out the top og the tree. Most clipons are about an inch to an inch and a half tall (some are two). You can slide the forks up, bolt on the clipons above the trees and it makes the whole deal look factory.

as for whole new front ends, this all depends on how radical you want to go. I have seen cbr and fzr front ends on the bikes and I have a set of trees set up for a cbr on a cb. as far as the only bolt on I know if is the gold wing and it is taller. Also the 77-78 supersports are bolt on as well and have way better brakes, but the supersport front end must be swapped whole as the even the trees are different only the stem is the same. This will leave you with a comstar mag that runs tubless tires, some people like them some don't, it's all a matter of taste, but you do get dual disc out of the deal. you can use a supersport rear to give you a rear disc too but will need to weld on m/c mounts and a rear brake setup.

as for your header, paint it black and wrap it with some header tape around the down pipes by the oil filter. This will help the oil life since the filter sits so close to the exhaust.

here is the master links page from the SOHC4 forum:

This list is being constantly updated.
If you know of any more, let me know.
If any link is broken, let me know.

Heaps of Useful Info
http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/MC.html
www.oldbikebarn.com
www.satanicmechanic.de

Frank Cooper built loads of special replacement bodywork and electrical parts, here's how:
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/frank.cooper1/frameset.html

Terry in Oz sells Oil Cooler Kits on eBay:
http://search.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQsassZnetscroungerQQhtZ-1

You can buy paint from Don. Email him on::
[email protected]

Jim Spillane, SOHC/4 Member #28, sells stainless-steel philips-head and allen-head screw sets:
Email Jim at [email protected] for prices and availability.

Where can I find online parts sources for my SOHC?
Try this list. Feel welcome to drop me a line if you have further relevant links.

Specific for fours
www.davidsilverspares.co.uk
www.cmsnl.com
www.loudfastugly.com
www.cb-4zylinder.de/index.html
www.four-schmiede.de (German)
www.honda-cb-four.de (German)
www.sayonara-cycles.de (German)
www.classicbikes.com
www.cycle-salvage.com
www.denniskirk.com
www.hondaclassics.com
www.servicehonda.com
www.westernhillshonda.com
www.cb750.org
www.hondacb750.com.au (Aussie - thanks to cben750f1)
http://cb750k2.tripod.com/page1.html
www.stilettocycle.com. (750/4 and KZ900/1000 basic stuff, like cables, brake parts, shocks.. general maintainance)
www.charlies-place.com/parts.html

Specific for 400F
www.oldbikebarn.com/newsletter/2005-05/spotlight.php (Thanks Bob Wessner)
www.eaglescall.com (thanks pmpski_1)
www.ttr400.com

Specific for CB650
www.thehondacbforum.com (thanks to Bigjims)
www.geocities.com/jbronsky1/cycleshonda.html (thanks to tintin)

Specific for Sandcast
www.cb750sandcastonly.com (thanks to Sterling2)

General
www.olypen.com/retro (thanks pmpski_1)
www.crc2onlinecatalog.com
www.gear4bikes.com
www.motorcyclemart.com
www.motorcycletireplanet.com
www.sudco.com
www.reproductiondecals.com
www.jcwhitney.com/JCWMotorcycle.jhtml
www.louis.de
www.partsnmore.com
www.gt-inc.com.
www.cyclexchange.net (mainly chopper stuff, but they sell lightened alternators, 836 kits, ported cylinder heads, etc...)
www.bikebandit.com
www.oldbikebarn.com
www.bikeboneyard.com
www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com
http://olypen.com/retro/
www.siriusconinc.com

Drilling Disks
http://eindiancompanies.com/howto/howtorotor.htm (thanks pmpski_1)
www.eaglescall.com/images\cb400f_disc_template.pdf (Template for 400F)

Electronic Ignition
www.dynaonline.com/english/sportbike_dynas.htm

Electrical Connectors
www.vintageconnections.com (thanks jonesdp)
www.crc2onlinecatalog.com
www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk (thanks OldBiker)

Battery Eliminator
www.bat-pac.com/index.htm

Lowering Kits
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/showCustom-0/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2006655/c-10111/Nty-1/p-2006655/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10111/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=lowering kit
http://www.cyclexchange.net/Accessories Page.htm (Shorty Shocks)

Shock Absorbers
www.accwhse.com (Progressive)
www.hagon-shocks.co.uk/HagShocks.htm (Hagon)

Tapered Steering Head Bearings
www.pro-flo.com/proflo_all_balls_steering_stem_bearings_honda.htm
www.partsnmore.com/cat_index.php?model=cb750_sohc&category=chassis
www.denniskirk.com

Clip-ons
www.partsnmore.com/cat_index.php?model=cb750_sohc&category=controls
www.mikesxs.net/mikesxs-chassis.php?category_id=1.4
www.spec2.com/clips.html
www.raask.se/ind-eng.htm

Custom Swingarms
www.swingarm.com (Don't bother if you've less than $500 to spend!! - thanks Geeto67)

Seat Covers
www.saddlemen.com/skins.html (Thanks Metalhead550)
www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/seat_covers.htm (DammitDan)

Braided Brake Lines
www.cyclebrakes.com (thanks Justin_NJ)

Fairings / Bodywork
http://all-digital.net/gftp/ (Glass from the Past - thanks to Uncle Ernie)

Manuals
www.honda4fun.com/man_officina/man_officina.html (Download shop manuals)
www.partscd.com (CD Manuals for sale in Canada, thanks BryanJ)
www.helminc.com (Reproduction and CD manuals from $36, thanks to Mick750F)
http://members.thegeekgroup.org/~alphageek/sohc/ (The full 300MB version of the honda4fun files. CB500/550)
http://powersportspro.com (get a free membership , log in and go to Parts Fish. Over 200,000 exploded view diagrams - Einyodeler)
http://members.lycos.nl/hondaf1/cb750f1_partslist.htm (CB750F1 Parts List Complete from cben750f1)
http://cb750k2.tripod.com/parts-manuals/index.html (CB750 K,K1,K2 Parts Book - thanks Clyde)

Keys
www.hondakeys.com
www.cmsnl.com/keys.php?category_id=125 (Europe)
www.motorcyclekeys.com/vintage.html
www.reproductiondecals.com (go to More Info / NOS Keys) - Canada

Tires (Tyres)
www.americanmototire.com
www.onoffroad.com (high-end tyres at good prices - jonesdp)
www.jcwhitney.com (cheap if you don't care about the brand - jonesdp)
www.ridedirect.com (reasonable prices - Bob Wessner)
www.tiresunlimited.com/default.htm (TwoTired)

Chain / Sprockets
www.loudfastugly.com/chain/chain.htm (thanks to jsmbubba)
www.ekchain.com/faqs.htm (O-Ring, X-Ring, 520, 530 Answers to be found here. Thanks Ibsen)
www.mawonline.com/rk.htm (RK Chains)
www.sudco.com/chain.html
www.jtsprockets.com/47.0.html
www.sprocketspecialists.com/html/sprocketmain.shtml (Aluminium sprockets and RK Chains)

Graphics / Decals
www.afegraphics.com/reproset.htm
www.reproductiondecals.com

Recommended Paintshops
www.bkcustomcoatings.com (Canada - tintin)

Sidecover Emblems
http://honda-teileservice.de/index.html?embleme_seitendeckel___tank.htm (German)
www.oldbikebarn.com/motorcycle_parts.php?bike=&subcategory=Badges - Side Cover&category=&Start=0&DisplayPerPage=20&universal=Universal

Carb Rebuilds and Parts
www.motorcyclecarbs.com
www.siriusconinc.com (Keyster and other parts)
http://olypen.com/retro/
www.carbtune.com (Carb Balancers)
www.rageperformance.com/carburetorparts.asp (Thanks TwoTired)
www.yamaha-motor.com/star/apparel/apscitemdetail/3/122/all/all/322/detail.aspx (Yamaha Carb Dip)

Plugs & Caps
www.ngk.com (Info and cross-reference part numbers - thanks Dennis)
http://tools.batauto.com/index.php?crn=84&rn=827&action=show_detail (spark tester)
www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html (thanks TwoTired)
http://www.coyotemotorsports.com/eshopprod_cat_1286-10299-10301_product_127225.NGK_SPARK_PLUG_RESISTOR_COVERS.htm (Thanks Hymodyne)

Voltage Regulators
www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/vregulators.html (thanks Motodave)

Exhausts
www.predatormotorsport.co.uk/hermes/shop/34,1,20
www.loudfastugly.com
www.laser-jama.nl/index1024.html (Laser slip-on replacements)

Throttle Wrist-Cramp Eliminators(!)
www.throttlerocker.com (thanks jbailey)

Make Your Own Brake Bleeder
www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm (thanks Glenn)

Fitting Air Horns
www.rattlebars.com/mtz/hornrelay.html (thanks gkw120649)

Big Bore Kits (Australia)
[email protected]

Hot Cams
www.webcamshafts.com
www.megacyclecams.com

Fairings (CR + Other Exotic)
www.airtech-streamlining.com

Old License Plates (UK)
www.tippersvintageplates.co.uk/

CB400F Modern Upgrades
www.mc-again.com (Japanese - click on "Fours Only" then "Up" for pictures - thanks to Tim2005)
www.eaglescall.com/KSM (Thanks Thirdman)

Or just look here for the finished article (and drool)
www.classicbikes.co.uk (UK specialists in classics)
www.benjiescaferacer.com/home.html
www.cb750cafe.com (Carpy's site)
www.cvvm.com/motorcycles (Joe Allan from BC, Canada builds some really cool bikes...)
 

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ya might try extended swingarm, itll give a little more travel sit lower longer wheel base those were wheely machines anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks again Geeto. I think I'll take your advice and go with the clip-ons and short shocks. Im going to get new shorter cables to skip the excess cable routing problem.

I've seen the links from sohc.....Im KCs76Cafe over there.

Jee....I eventually want to go with an extended swing arm....but unless I win the lottery or I find one on the side of the road....its gonna be awhile.
 

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quote:


Jee....I eventually want to go with an extended swing arm....but unless I win the lottery or I find one on the side of the road....its gonna be awhile.
A 1979 DOHC cb750 supersport swingarm is the cheapo way of getting an extended swingarm. Guys on honda chopper have been using them for a while now. The pivot area will have to be cut down (you could do this if you have bench grinder but if you are really picky about it have a machinist do it so it is square) but once it is you can use your stock honda bushings and pivot arm. A DOHC arm is about 3" longer, but once you go to that conversion the rear fender (which isn't there anyway on your bike) will have to be bobbed since the tire will rub for sure with the shorty shocks.

here is a link to honda chopper board talking about the DOHC swingarms:

http://p196.ezboard.com/fhondachopperfrm4.showMessage?topicID=15096.topic

That being said, I know it is the american way to lower what ever ride we have but it must be noted that loweing does not improve handleing on a cb750. I have found that a good place to start is to bring the rear up 1/2 an inch and drop the front down an inch. It sharpens up the bike's turn in and makes the steering sharper without making it too unstable at high speeds (you really shouldn't be doing the ton on the highway anyway). This setup also moves the engine to the lowest point in the chassis and gives you some extra ground clearance at the rear, espically the pipes and stands. just something to think about.

As far as the lowering the bike is concerned the center stand is going to get in the way. on a stock bike you already grind it in leaned over tight left handers, with a lowered bike you will grind it even more and a lot sooner. it will also be really hard to get the bike on the center stand. I say just remove it and if you need it (like to service the bike) you can always reinstall it.


edit: I think Jee was talking about the h1 having an extended swingarm not the cb750, since the cb750 was never a wheelie maching.

An extended swingarm isn't hard on an h1 either, I believe a 1974-75 h2 swingarm is a couple of inches longer and a bolt in. However, with the h1, one inch up in the rear and one inch down in the front is a great way to set the chassis up for road racing and combar tome of the bike's wheelie antics.

Edited by - Geeto67 on Jan 23 2006 09:32:46 AM
 

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Discussion Starter #11
[/quote]

A 1979 DOHC cb750 supersport swingarm is the cheapo way of getting an extended swingarm. Guys on honda chopper have been using them for a while now. The pivot area will have to be cut down (you could do this if you have bench grinder but if you are really picky about it have a machinist do it so it is square) but once it is you can use your stock honda bushings and pivot arm. A DOHC arm is about 3" longer, but once you go to that conversion the rear fender (which isn't there anyway on your bike) will have to be bobbed since the tire will rub for sure with the shorty shocks.

[/quote]

Will this swingarm work

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1979-Honda-CB750-Factory-Stock-Swingarm-Assembly_W0QQitemZ4606873923QQcategoryZ35592QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

or does it have to be one from a SuperSport?

[/quote]As far as the lowering the bike is concerned the center stand is going to get in the way. on a stock bike you already grind it in leaned over tight left handers, with a lowered bike you will grind it even more and a lot sooner. it will also be really hard to get the bike on the center stand. I say just remove it and if you need it (like to service the bike) you can always reinstall it. [/quote]

Centerstand wasnt on it when I got it. would have taken it off anyway.....although it would make serving the bike easier.

[/quote]edit: I think Jee was talking about the h1 having an extended swingarm not the cb750, since the cb750 was never a wheelie maching.

An extended swingarm isn't hard on an h1 either, I believe a 1974-75 h2 swingarm is a couple of inches longer and a bolt in. However, with the h1, one inch up in the rear and one inch down in the front is a great way to set the chassis up for road racing and combar tome of the bike's wheelie antics. [/quote]

I've had people ask me how he (the previous owner) kept the front end on the ground with it jacked up like that...beats me....I wouldnt have been caught out in public with the thing looking like that.
<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
 

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I believe it will work but to be on the safe side ask him for the pivot width of the arm and the overall length. I will measure my F arm for you in the meantime.
 
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