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Discussion Starter #1
H'lo.

Hoping some of you might be able to offer some help.

Long story short...

I managed to buy back the very first bike I ever sat on... it was my father's '72 CB350, and it changed hands a few times after he sold it. I got it back for what my dad paid for it back in '72.

I rebuilt the carbs from three sets and got it running, but the front forks are bent beyond salvage. I have a few options, and I'd like to know which you guys think would be best;

1) Find a set of straight CB350 legs... harder than it sounds believe it or not.. and the stock legs are pretty puny. Cost: about $50.00-ish for used... maybe $100 for new.

2) I've got a set of XL350 trees, and I've been told that a set of 35mm XL350 fork legs will take the CB350 axle and front hub with no issues. I don't understand how the stock front brake stay would work with the Xl front end though. has anyone done this? Cost: about $100 I figure.

3) I've got a CB750 front end from a '76, with a stock CB750 hub. I can source a CB750 rim, or I can lace the hub to a Aluminum GL1000 19" rim that I have in the garage... I figured the lighter weight of the rim would help with the extra weight of the disc and caliper. Cost: $ 100.00 for the spokes...plus a tire and tube, and whatever the brake line will run me.

Soooo... what do you guys think is the best option? I kinda like the idea of a disc brake... but I love the look of the stock drum.

I'm open to suggestions.

and I hope I can ask a buttload of questions as I progress.

Thanks.

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Discussion Starter #2
sorry.

This should have been in the tech section. I apologize for the double post.

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disk it where its at. run the 75o front end. lace an 18 to it not a 19. you'll proably have to use a longer brake stay or rotate the drum a bit if you use the xl setup. ive never been a fan of mx forks on street bikes. there are rebound and dampening issues youll have to address probably. the xl had a 21 i think but the brake was tiny. so you may not have to rotate it as much as youd think. or id think. a honda brake stay is simple. a piece of alum or steel with 2 holes in it. done. im pretty sure there is someone here racing one with an xl front though. but my vote is for the little extra work for the 750 front end. they both suck in the rain equally. oh yeah, you might have to push the tubes up through the trees a little to make it work and look right. but ask away. and dont forget to use the search button up near your login. we dont want gheet flipping out! we've covered these swaps several times. so before you ask, try searching "front end swap" or something like that. there are bearings etc youll need to screw with. look for my description, i think mine was the best!
:)

congrats on getting it back. pretty cool. wish i could lay a hand on my dads 58 cub. i even used to have pictures of it. ethanol burning chromed, polished, and blue. very cool.

jc


aaron, send my wheel.
 

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I think no matter what front end you use, it would look best with clubman bars on it. They're so cool.
 

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what joe said, or any other CB front end from 350 through 750. they'll all fit with a little work. the stock drum is OK for the street, just don't try to race it and cook into turn3 at New Hampshire speedway.

if you run out of options, i , and just about every other person on this forum has an extra one or six 350 front ends that would be yours for the asking.

welcome-
tt
 

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And I've got a nice CB450 drum all set up for racing and ready to go (street compound shoes). Drilled and vented all over. With new bearings. $200 and it's yours. (remember...they are 40 spoke hubs).
JohnnyB
 

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I used the XL350 fork on my 350 and 175 race bikes. Sprung really soft but with so much travel it didn't matter much if you kept the throttle steady so it wouldn't turn into a hobby horse.
The fork tubes are 2"+ too long so you won't be able to use your clubmans.
The axle is correct diameter for the hub but with the 4 bolt lower caps you'll have to mix and match threaded ends and spacers to get the right length.
You'll also have to make up a brake stay that will attach to the fender mounts on the back side of the left leg. There is no lug on the front.
bfd
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for your responses.

I did try to search for “front end swaps”…but all I ever seem to get is a blank screen.

I think I’m going to go with the SOHC 750 front end, I’ll need new rubber, a caliper rebuild kit and a brake line and I’ll probably go digging at the local boneyard for a complete front wheel minus a disc (which I already have) as I’m guessing the used wheel will be cheaper than buying new spokes.

Out of curiousity… why do you suggest the 18” over the 19”? My train of thought was that the 19” aluminum rim would help with unsprung weight, as well as increase stability… maybe at the cost of heavier steering?

The idea behind this is to build a street bike, with an eye towards vintage racing in the future. Is a K-Model CB750 front end still “legal”?

I’ve got a complete basket case CB350 engine in my garage as well… so that might be my “Vintage racing” project instead, we’ll see.

Thanks again.


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I've got a straight CB350 four front end complete with 18" wheel, brake rotor and master cylinder. The only thing missing is the caliper. The fork tubes have a little rust but it's under the headlight ears and is not visible or severe. If you're interested, let me know and I'll send pics. This is a straight up bolt on swap for your CB.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
... thanks, You reminded me of my other question.

With a CB750 front end, I need to press the stem out of the 350 trees and press it into the 750 trees, correct?

Thanks for the offer! How much are you asking? I'm trying to do this on the cheap, as I've got another project on the go as well, and it's eaten a lot of cash... but it's a long ways from done. The 350 only needs a decent front end to be rideable.

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why would you relace the GL1000 aluminum rim to the cb750 hub? If it is a 75-76 rim (it should be because it is a spoke and not a comstar) the stock GL1000 hub will take the cb750 brake rotors - the hubs are a little different but the rotors are very different despte having the same bolt pattern, however you can put a cb750 rotor on a gl1000 wheel and use the cb750 caliper (you can't use the GL1000 calipers with the 750 rotors).

Forking by frank will sell you new cb350 tubes, probably cheaper than the machine work you are about to get yourself into. And BTW, the cb750 front end is going to be longer than the 350 front end so you may have to push it up through the trees a little to get everything back to normal.

If I were you and wanted a disc front end on my street cb350, I would take chetriply up on his offer, as far as I know the 350four front ends are bolt on. Otherwise branson's setup is the chiznit for vintage racing (and as far as I know the disc is not legal for racing, just the drum since these guys bitch about it constantly).

BTW bransons, Rosko's front drum for his 350 race bike is pure wack candy. I would have jacked it already but, well, he is a friend and it doesn't fit in my jacket or under my shirt.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The machine work is free... I've traded it for a hand-tooled leather seat that I made for a buddy's chopper, all welding I need done has also been traded for leaterwork.

The GL1000 rim is laced to a 16" X 3" rim that I'm using on MY chopper (I wanted the dual discs)... so that's why i can't use it. :)

I figured I could make up for the extra length of the 750 front end with a spacer on the dampening rod, and a preload spacer.

Like I said... I welcome all comments and ideas... thanks and keep 'em coming!


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Discussion Starter #13
oops.

I meant "GL1000 HUB laced to a 16" X 3" rim".

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jbranson's 450 drum...even with street shoes hasn't even hinted at fading on the 350. i meant to get race linings this winter, but it didn't happen and i'm not too concerned.

you can make 750 stem/trees work if you add a bushing before fitting the races in the head.
-tt
 

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Thanks for the brake comments....I do try to set them up nice..I'm anal about brakes.

For you guys using Superhawk 305/ CB450 drums...I'm about to send out a batch of shoes to Europe for race compound. Probably 6 - 8 sets. Same compound as the last batch. These are bonded linings...not rivets..so lots of surface area and no grooving of the drums.
Price will be in the $90-100 per set range with cores (Honda OEM cores...condition is not an issue as long as the shoe isn't broken, bent etc). Arc'ing included...you just have to send me your drum ID. Will be a couple of months before I get them.
JohnnyB
 

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youre opening a huge can of worms mentioning racing and brake legalities. different clubs have different rules. some allow disks in some classes. some dont allow disks on any cb350's. as far as im concerned, the 350/4 brake and front blows. skip it. if you like drum setups, jb's is the setup. it will suit you fine. no brake lines, no calipers, no screwing. jjust make spacers, and go. if youre planning on making a racer out of it, you'll want the 18. yes, the 19 is a little slower, but the 18 isnt like riding on a scooter wheel. plus for racing you have a better choice of rubber in 18.

i guess i t really depends on what exactly you want to do in the end. personally, i like the 18 route, cb750 front, or 550, single disk, drilled for water. you dont have to press the stem, you can shim it with a spacer. i just prefer the neatness of the press and weld. just me. either way, you really cant go wrong.



jc


aaron, send my wheel.

Edited by - joe c on Mar 22 2007 3:50:47 PM
 

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I'd take fifty bucks plus the shipping to get it out of my way. Just drop me a line if you want it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
email sent to you, chet.

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No E yet Rat. Use [email protected]. Should work...maybe...if all the planets are in alignment and the squirrels that power my pc are well fed.
 

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I can't wait to try out my new Johnny B. Clever Dog Racing, cb77front brake. That thing just works so smoooth , you just know that it's going to improve my lap times with controlable late braking. I'm not sure but isn't what it's all about?
 
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