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Looks like it had some tasteful functional mods at the time.; fork brace, oil cooler, quality exhaust, decent bars, aluminum rims (look like they are aftermarket?)

welcome!
 
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yes had just about everything done to the engine, It is 744 CCs, I think 10.5 compression, Shell cam. Ported etc. I've had it since about 1985. At one time I even had flat slide carbs on it.
It would idle and run wide open, could never get them tuned in for the street. Felt much faster than my brothers CB750, but we never actually raced him.. Would easily spin 8500 in high with stock gearing. Was much faster than my wife's Yamaha 550 Vision, even though that was a nice bike. Anyway, I loved that bike and I'll love it again!!!!
Thanks for the support!
 

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You might be able to get them replated, but it might be more timely and economical to get in contact with Forks by Frank and get new replacement tubes.

I’m assuming they are the stock forks swapped left to right to put the caliper on the trailing side of the fork and a caliper from something else.
 

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Do you think I can still use those forks?
Not likely with that much rust damage on the operating part of the stanchion tubes, you'll never keep the oil in them. Rust is the result of iron that was once in the steel and has since turned to dirt. Remove the rust and now you have pits in the surface where oil can pass the seal. No re-plating can be done seeing as they were never plated to begin with. Rear shocks are likely to have suffered a similar fate.
 

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True that! If things look good and usable after cleaning + painting I would fill the tubes with a corrosion protection oil and than drain. I use an aricraft product ACF_50.

 

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Ben,
Welcome. What a great set of parts to start a rebuild project. For forks and other parts you have choices if you want to stick to stock looking parts. Frank's is a great start, but check MikesXS.com for parts. I use their stuff for other bikes all the time.

You could also go with say a set of early Yamaha R6 forks which are conventional looking but much stiffer and lighter and that would make a brake upgrade easier.

Talking of brakes, there have been many XS brake upgrade options over the years from large diameter rotors to multi piston calipers. Lots of options to drive you slowly mad working out what you want to do.

You have a lot of work ahead but it's realy just a strip, clean, inspect, re-finish, build process. Styles have changed a bit over the decades and for my taste the ideal look for an XS is the tracker look. They also look good as conventional sixties style cafe racers a.k.a. Manx Norton look. Or make it look stock and surprise people with the sleeper approach.

The so called Brat style fortunately seems to be falling out of favor which is good. The latest style trend seems to be muscular naked street bikes, which are in many ways a modern street tracker look.

You have a great starting point for sure.
 

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I'm pretty sure that all conventional motorcycle fork tubes are chrome plated.
Zinc and Nickel are the economical option to Chrome Plating and commonly used on machined steel like hydraulic cylinders and steel bolts where additional protection from rust is required. Chromium metal is typically alloyed with the base metal itself to produce stainless steel. Chrome Plating as a process is an expensive highly toxic environmental disaster for manufacturers and chrome layered on the surface of machined steel is prone to peel off in layered chunks like on the brake drum of an old Bultaco. I'm pretty sure based on the typical wear patterns and rock damage repairs that I have done on dozens of motorcycle stanchion tubes over the decades you are looking at mostly Zinc coatings.
First time around the manufacturer was working with fresh new machined steel, the OP is now working with fifty year old worn down and rust pitted steel. Replacement stanchions tubes would be a more economical and likely successful alternative, fork stanchions are not as expensive as the lower fork leg which is even more prone to wear from use. Check the fork legs to see if they are worn oval on the inside as well, because if the aluminum leg forks have no slide bushings or poorly serviced bushings, the lower fork leg eventually develops free play in part of its travel making it impossible to keep good oil seals in them.
 

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Zinc and Nickel are the economical option to Chrome Plating and commonly used on machined steel like hydraulic cylinders and steel bolts where additional protection from rust is required. Chromium metal is typically alloyed with the base metal itself to produce stainless steel. Chrome Plating as a process is an expensive highly toxic environmental disaster for manufacturers and chrome layered on the surface of machined steel is prone to peel off in layered chunks like on the brake drum of an old Bultaco. I'm pretty sure based on the typical wear patterns and rock damage repairs that I have done on dozens of motorcycle stanchion tubes over the decades you are looking at mostly Zinc coatings.
First time around the manufacturer was working with fresh new machined steel, the OP is now working with fifty year old worn down and rust pitted steel. Replacement stanchions tubes would be a more economical and likely successful alternative, fork stanchions are not as expensive as the lower fork leg which is even more prone to wear from use. Check the fork legs to see if they are worn oval on the inside as well, because if the aluminum leg forks have no slide bushings or poorly serviced bushings, the lower fork leg eventually develops free play in part of its travel making it impossible to keep good oil seals in them.
You might be pretty sure, but I think that you are not correct. Chrome has been used on fork tubes for decades...
 

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You might be pretty sure, but I think that you are not correct. Chrome has been used on fork tubes for decades...
Alloyed in the steel, not on the steel as a coating. Fork stanchions do not need to be made from really hard material to begin with, trials bikes are all aluminum stanchion tubes now, they ride on nylon coated bushings and a thin layer of oil, Take a file to it or look at the stanchion under a microscope, you won't see layers you'll see worn steel with fine scratches on it.
If he does want to try cleaning up the old ones to sell it, grind/polish the tube in a radial direction not longitudinal, like you would hone a steel cylinder, unlike a chrome bore cylinder which you don't hone.
 

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Alloyed in the steel, not on the steel as a coating. Fork stanchions do not need to be made from really hard material to begin with, trials bikes are all aluminum stanchion tubes now, they ride on nylon coated bushings and a thin layer of oil, Take a file to it or look at the stanchion under a microscope, you won't see layers you'll see worn steel with fine scratches on it.
If he does want to try cleaning up the old ones to sell it, grind/polish the tube in a radial direction not longitudinal, like you would hone a steel cylinder, unlike a chrome bore cylinder which you don't hone.
The topic is about fork tubes for a 70's Yamaha 650. Don't try to muddy the waters with references to current trials bikes.

The Yamaha 650 had chrome plated fork tubes - like EVERY bike in the 70's and onwards.

The OP can get his forks re-plated. There are a few sites that do that.

The cost might be prohibitive, so maybe he should just buy replacement fork tubes.
 

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There are companies who specialize in repairing and replating fork legs. It is a hard chrome process not show chrome and is used extensively to repair all manner of shafts. But replacement fork tubes are most likely less expensive.

And a more modern set of conventional looking forks can represent a good upgrade at a reasonable cost. Early yamaha R6 are an example of larger diameter forks with adjustable damping and preload and looks period appropriate. Or almost any similar looking forks such as FZR400 with cartridge emulators are also a good upgrade. FXR forks are not exactly growing on trees but they are thinner wall, larger diameter and much lighter than most other forks on old bikes.
 

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I'm kind of interested in switching entire front ends if it is not too expensive
What do you call expensive?
All new parts from Race Tech to fix you forks add up to less then a grand, their rebuild labour cost is ~$250
Still comes close to a grand even if they do the service.
New Ohlins forks would cost 3 times that or more plus commit you to changing things like the fork yokes, brakes and axle to fit anything other then 35mm forks.
Do you want to repair it for a grand, or do you want to drop 3-5 grand into a state of the art front suspension :unsure:
 
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