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... its easier to do a straight bar conversion than clip ons do you have one to recommend?
True that.
Straight bars or flat bars are as cheap as handlebars get, they will end up being steel construction so expensive name brand alloy bars won't likely be a consideration, if alloy bars were a practical option then I would have some recommendations.

Outside of disposable items like chain, I recommend you don't order too many parts until you see what you actually need.
 

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hmm sounds like a no go then...
If you are talking about cheesy little pod filters stuck on the end of a carburetor mouth, that's never a good idea. Everybody that has ever done that has removed the velocity stack that was put on there by the manufacturer for a reason.
 

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1980 Honda cb650?
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
True that.
Straight bars or flat bars are as cheap as handlebars get, they will end up being steel construction so expensive name brand alloy bars won't likely be a consideration, if alloy bars were a practical option then I would have some recommendations.

Outside of disposable items like chain, I recommend you don't order too many parts until you see what you actually need.
Currently just making a list all I’m ordering is plugs oil filter maybe some new ht leads I want to get it running good before I start doing the rest
If you are talking about cheesy little pod filters stuck on the end of a carburetor mouth, that's never a good idea. Everybody that has ever done that has removed the velocity stack that was put on there by the manufacturer for a reason.
is the velocity stack in the plenum
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Yes to that.
Yep there in there! My main issue with the whole airbox is I wanted it to have that open frame look and I’m not sure what to do with the rear fender part of the box do I just cut it? But it would save me from having to build a whole electrics tray under the seat because I can mount the battery next to the air box like from factory
 

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The job of the velocity stack is to improve flow into and through the carburetor. The job of the plenum is to provide a supply of clean, reasonably calm from turbulence air supply to the stacks.
 

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You need to decide if you are building something to look at or something that rides good. Open frame look is only for a look and what good does it do you when you are sitting on the motorcycle and that open area is behind your legs.
... That centrally located area is the perfect place to locate the heaviest items like your battery.

Your electrics tray better not hold water or it will become an electric pond, your electrics for the most part need to be protected from water, vibration or excess heat.
 

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1980 Honda cb650?
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Well not after talking to you I’m thinking maybe I can just make some brackets and fit a plate instead of the side panels because I only have one side! Of course I want it to ride good but my main purpose of this build is to mainly learn and in the mean time make something cool and maybe have a nice bike to ride next summer it won’t be ridden everyday or on the rain ever! I’m also having confusion about the models is mine a 1980 cb650c or z maybe you can clear that up for me too 🙈
 

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I think yours is a Z which is a euro version that was to my knowledge never imported into North America. The VIN stamp on the frame can tell you for sure exactly what the model is.

Not riding because of weather in never on my agenda, I'm looking forward to winter riding again this year :cool: studded tires really rock
 

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Curious, how could one ride & live in Sweden and not be riding motorcycles on ice and snow :unsure: you have mountains, forests, small population, long winters and kick ass domestic product motorcycles. Seems like the perfect place for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Today i got the oil out of it and all the plugs im waiting for the parts to arrive to replace so i started looking at the brakes. are the original front brakes okay? or should i be looking to change them to something else and also im unsure of how it works if i want to change the master cylinder, thottle and clutch lever do i need certain ones? of course i have to match dot number and the bore from cylinder and caliper if i am correct
 

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Brakes are expensive to upgrade, especially when your rear brake is a drum unit, the clutch lever is fairly easy to swap with something different, they all mount on 7/8" (22mm) handlebars so you have options on the clutch lever. If you retain the original front brake and hydraulics you have fewer options to change the lever and I wouldn't do that unless I was replacing the entire front brake assembly. There are some small improvements that can be made to your rear drum brake to make it work a little better. If I was going to upgrade any major parts on that bike it would be the rear shocks, most of the other parts you are stuck with unless you ready to throw bags of money at it.
If you plan to reposition the rear brake to work with rear set foot controls, you will want to switch from that solid steel actuator rod to a cable. That makes is much easier to have a brake that works and doesn't change every time you compress the rear suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Brakes are expensive to upgrade, especially when your rear brake is a drum unit, the clutch lever is fairly easy to swap with something different, they all mount on 7/8" (22mm) handlebars so you have options on the clutch lever. If you retain the original front brake and hydraulics you have fewer options to change the lever, unless you replace the entire brake master assembly and I wouldn't do that unless I was replacing the entire front brake assembly. There are some small improvements that can be made to your rear drum brake to make it work a little better. If I was going to upgrade any major parts on that bike it would be the rear shocks, most of the other parts you are stuck with unless you ready to throw bags of money at it.
Biggest reason I’m looking to change the front brake lever is the fluid reservoir has cracked and corroded from fluid leaking out so I wanted to change it but maybe I can get a original part
 

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Biggest reason I’m looking to change the front brake lever is the fluid reservoir has cracked and corroded from fluid leaking out so I wanted to change it but maybe I can get a original part
Easy to get used parts to replace the reservoir. Those same brake setups were used for many years on many different models. Anything you buy used will need regular maintenance service anyway. It's the rubber bits that wear out first.
 

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What happened to cause the damage to your cylinder cooling fins, did somebody have crash bars on there at one time and have a crash? That's usually what causes damage like, watch for related damage to the frame in other places.
Your saddle looks like somebody tried to modify it and then gave up, I bet you can do a way better job of fixing that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Yeah the fins is a weird one! I can’t see any other damage on the bike really, there’s some scrapes and scratches but nothing serious I plan to cut the back of the bike out the u bend on it and cafe racer seat! The seat that’s on it is completely rusted underneath!
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Some pictures of the controls so you understand why I want to change them! I want to get clubman bars and just simplify the handle bars it’s all so clunky which is why I want to change them
 

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The foam grips are horrible and I can see why you are looking for a new brake reservoir, it looks like your original one was left full of ice over the winter. Repairable just the same if you can find used plastic parts and a newer rubber baffle for the reservoir.

Those are clubman bars you have on there now, they are just installed wrong, flip them over (y)

The levers should be replaced but that brake lever is fairly special, you won't find a lot of options there.
 
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