A complete aftermarket master and a clutch lever are about $70 here. Add a line/lines, pads and caliper kits.
You might want to find used bars that offer a decent riding position. You could be comfortable and quick with Superbike bars.
would you have a link for me I’d like to know what kind of thing I should look at! And if I want to be quick I’ll ride my ninja this is just a bit of fun lol
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Kinda depends on how bad the threads in the sump housing are. Considering some of the threads are stuck to the plug, well that's not a good sign. On the other hand you can possibly drill and tap it to fit an over-sized plug and save a lot of grief. The sump is cast from much softer material then the drain plug so the castings will always lose the battle.You think I need a whole new sump or just a new plug?
They are going to be standard M12 metric bolt sizes most likely with a 1.75 threads per mm pitch.Can I just go pick up a standard oil plug or do the Hondas have special threads?
Best way to test the coil is to swap them and see if the problem goes to the other cylinders, hopefully that is what you meant by changing the coils. You theoretically have 2 breaker points and 2 condensers and combined with a hole in that cover, that is where the problems will always be, breaker points can't run wet.the bike has been running on 2 cylinders 2 and 3 were working but 1 and 4 not so i decided to change the coils but that hasnt seem to have done the trick im hoping its not the spark unit because they are expencive! my bike does have a hole in the stator cover but surly if there was an issue there i wouldnt have any spark at all right?
The coil is powered by the battery and the voltage delivery is initially intensified by the capacitor (condenser) which is energized via the breaker points. For everything to work well, the points need to have zero resistance when they are closed and need to break (open according to the meter) at the correct time as set on the crankshaft markings, somewhere before TDC (Top Dead Centre). The large secondary coil intensifies the voltage even more so it can arc a spark at the sparkplug. The high power lead from the secondary coil often has a set resistance which will be low because it's just a big long coil of copper wire, basically a power transformer. The spark plug cap is suppose to be replaced more frequently then most people replace them. Plugcap might also incorporate a resistance and the plug if it has an R in the code probably has a set resistance. Everything there except the plug can be tested with a meter and is likely outlined in the shop service manual with the correct meter reading you should expect to see on each component and how to test them.I just replaced both the coils and I’m having the same problem on the same plugs so I’m thinking power to coil? , spark unit? Or deeper am I right?