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A complete aftermarket master and a clutch lever are about $70 here. Add a line/lines, pads and caliper kits.

You might want to find used bars that offer a decent riding position. You could be comfortable and quick with Superbike bars.



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1980 Honda cb650?
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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
A complete aftermarket master and a clutch lever are about $70 here. Add a line/lines, pads and caliper kits.

You might want to find used bars that offer a decent riding position. You could be comfortable and quick with Superbike bars.

would you have a link for me I’d like to know what kind of thing I should look at! And if I want to be quick I’ll ride my ninja this is just a bit of fun lol



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Superbike bars are just standard bars with a small rise. Same as with flat bars they will give you better leverage and suit to a more upright riding position compared to clip-ons. All of these bars have just a slight bend back to put your wrists in a comfortable position.

Clip-ons are very low and commit you to a full crouch forward heavy riding position, the superbike bars you can't really get into a full crouch, but they are better for endurance racing on big heavy motorcycles that take lots of energy to throw into lots of fast turns for hours on end.
 

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You think I need a whole new sump or just a new plug?
Kinda depends on how bad the threads in the sump housing are. Considering some of the threads are stuck to the plug, well that's not a good sign. On the other hand you can possibly drill and tap it to fit an over-sized plug and save a lot of grief. The sump is cast from much softer material then the drain plug so the castings will always lose the battle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Yeah I’m not sure I think I’m going to get a new bolt and see how it fits and then if not I will see if I can drill and tap it problem is there are little fins on the sump aswell so the bolt has to fit inside a slot almost
As it’s a 12mm bolt I’m wondering if I can tap a 14mm or something
 

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Can I just go pick up a standard oil plug or do the Hondas have special threads?
They are going to be standard M12 metric bolt sizes most likely with a 1.75 threads per mm pitch.
If you go to 14mm bolt size you will be looking for an M14 x 1.5, 1.75 or most likely 2 threads per mm thread pitch.

Measure the thread pitch of the old bolt first for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
hey I got the sump plug all sorted with a Helicoil hopefully it holds up today i stripped the front calipers but once I got the pistons out the caliper was worse than I was expecting. the pistons look okay but im wondering if you think it would be okay for me to get my Dremmel and just polish the insides of these so I can re use them??
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
the bike has been running on 2 cylinders 2 and 3 were working but 1 and 4 not so i decided to change the coils but that hasnt seem to have done the trick im hoping its not the spark unit because they are expencive! my bike does have a hole in the stator cover but surly if there was an issue there i wouldnt have any spark at all right?
 

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the bike has been running on 2 cylinders 2 and 3 were working but 1 and 4 not so i decided to change the coils but that hasnt seem to have done the trick im hoping its not the spark unit because they are expencive! my bike does have a hole in the stator cover but surly if there was an issue there i wouldnt have any spark at all right?
Best way to test the coil is to swap them and see if the problem goes to the other cylinders, hopefully that is what you meant by changing the coils. You theoretically have 2 breaker points and 2 condensers and combined with a hole in that cover, that is where the problems will always be, breaker points can't run wet.
Stator is on the opposite end of the engine from your ignition system :unsure: your ignition runs off the battery.
 

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Yes, check the voltage going into the coils with the Ignition on as well as while cranking
 

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I just replaced both the coils and I’m having the same problem on the same plugs so I’m thinking power to coil? , spark unit? Or deeper am I right?
The coil is powered by the battery and the voltage delivery is initially intensified by the capacitor (condenser) which is energized via the breaker points. For everything to work well, the points need to have zero resistance when they are closed and need to break (open according to the meter) at the correct time as set on the crankshaft markings, somewhere before TDC (Top Dead Centre). The large secondary coil intensifies the voltage even more so it can arc a spark at the sparkplug. The high power lead from the secondary coil often has a set resistance which will be low because it's just a big long coil of copper wire, basically a power transformer. The spark plug cap is suppose to be replaced more frequently then most people replace them. Plugcap might also incorporate a resistance and the plug if it has an R in the code probably has a set resistance. Everything there except the plug can be tested with a meter and is likely outlined in the shop service manual with the correct meter reading you should expect to see on each component and how to test them.
You need to get good at servicing points ignition and the multi-meter makes that task a lot easier, once you understand the principals you can apply that to most any old breaker points ignition system.

Was a great day of riding here, three others showed up to do loops on the winter track (that's the easiest track)
 
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