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Discussion Starter #1
First of all, I want to say thanks to everyone who was trying to help me out:

Jack, I kept trying to find a way to get up there but it just wasn't quite feasible. No matter what I did, it would have cost more to get the bike than I was paying for it. But never the less, thanks for the consideration.

Tex, Thanks for the offers and the links to ebay. I actually tried to get that suzuki GS550 (it was only a 15 minute drive from me) but lost it in the last 4s of the auction. I didn't have the time to place another bid. I was pretty pissed about that too.

But as fate would have it, I looked on craigslist monday morning and found a 1976 CB750F in Asbury Park, NJ. It still took several hours on the road and I had to borrow a pick-up from my uncle, but sitting under my deck is now a running CB750F. Woohoo!

I will post some pictures and known problems as soon as I get a chance (i.e. the rain stops and I can get a replacement battery for my digital camera).

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great...then buy my f model!

congrats lefty! let's see who can get theirs on the road first. i got a few days head start on you so i'll get back to procrastinating.

good luck!

texy
 

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No problem Lefty! While I would have liked the space freed up I think you are much better off with a running bike to start with.

If anyone else is intersted, same deal unless I get it running, then the price goes up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mine isn't too far from being semi road worthy.

List of things needed to get on the road:
- Tires (front and rear)
- Throttle Cables (I tried lubing them and I think one may be frayed in the middle somewhere)
- Front brake hose
- Rear Brake Bleeder Valve is broken off in caliper
- Turn signal flasher (Lights turn on but don't blink)

There are other problems which I'll detail later, like the tank mount being held on by the seat. I have to get a new charger for my camera.

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detach your carb end of the cable before you condeem it some times the carb linkage is in need of lubrication from weather and sitting .Id disconnect the carb end and spray lube and see .And lube everything that twists,, turns and slides.
Congrats on your find BRUCE SPRINGSTEIN asbury park album was a fav of mine in the day .Racing in the Streets(the song) I built alot of sports cars with that song playing on loop.The boardwalk song SANDY well the whole album ah ha on cassett in those days.

Im so far behind ,that I think Im in first.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Lilbull,

I detached both cables completely from the bike and taped a funnel to the top. I filled the funnel with oil and grabbed the cable end loosely with a pair of pliers and moved it back and forth for a while. The cables loosened up quite a bit but after putting them back on, the throttle still sticks and if I wiggle the one in front (I'm not sure which one that is) the throttle with wiggle back down with it. I figure at least the one cable is frayed on the inside?

I also took off the throttle cable today and lubed that. I think the tach is bad? If I leave the tach cable off of the tach and run the motor, I can see the cable thing inside spinning pretty easily. Is there a way to get the tach apart without breaking it?

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that involves cutting the outer ring with a dremel or somesuch and then glue or some kind of binder to hold the ring on after. might be better to buy a new on if that's really the issue.

...connoisseur of slack...
 

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I have taken a Honda tachometer apart by prying the bottom of that chrome ring out, all the way around,with a small screwdriver; It can then be reassembled by crimping the ring back down with pliers. It's a tedious irritating job, but when I was finished you couldn't tell it had ever been apart (well, almost).

Still probably easier to buy a new (used) one.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So I took the tach off of the bike and plan on cutting the ring off tonight. We'll see how that goes, it already doesn't work so the worst that can happen is that it works less.

But on another note, I think my CB750F Supersport has a hondamatic tank on it. I knew it didn't look original so I have been looking online at other tanks and it seems to be the hondamatic. Not a big deal right now, but here's my question: will the stock CB750 tank rear rubber fit this tank?

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quote:
So I took the tach off of the bike and plan on cutting the ring off tonight. We'll see how that goes, it already doesn't work so the worst that can happen is that it works less.

But on another note, I think my CB750F Supersport has a hondamatic tank on it. I knew it didn't look original so I have been looking online at other tanks and it seems to be the hondamatic. Not a big deal right now, but here's my question: will the stock CB750 tank rear rubber fit this tank?

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There are 4 different tanks for the cb750:
1969-1976 cb750K tank (smallest)
1975-1978 CB750F Tank (breadbox tank - longest and has a gas door)
1977-1978 CB750K tank (widest tank, also has a gas door)
1976-1978 CB750A Tank (almost identical to the 77-78 K tank)

Chances are you have the cb750F tank as each tank only works with the seat for the bike it came with (69 K tank won't work with a F seat) . The cb750 tank mounts are universal to all SOHC cb750 models so the tank rubbers are the same.

I don't know your expirence with these bikes so I am reluctant to agree that your bike doesn't look stock without a pic so if you can post one please do so and I'll tell you for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I finally posted some pictures to photobucket with my crappy digital camera. I lost the battery charger for the good one.

http://s206.photobucket.com/albums/bb67/lefty337_photos/CB750/2007_07_10/

Let me know what you think of the tank. Is it a stock F tank or not? I ordered a tank strap off of ebay so I hope your right Geeto (not that I doubt you) and it's one size fits all.

I cut my tach apart today with my dremel and played with it a bit. I didn't really do anything but it seems to be working better. Now I just have to figure out how to seal it back up?

Next up is trying to get that damn broken bleeder screw out of the rear caliper. I've never taken the rear wheel off of a bike before so wish me luck!

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Edited by - lefty337 on Jul 11 2007 12:18:31 PM
 

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That appears to be a 77-78 K tank (or it could be a hondamatic tank). Either way you can see where the previous owner cut the seat to fit.

Does originality really matter to you? the SS tank is a bit racier but the K tank has more capacity. All honda tanks use the same rear rubber so no matter what it should fit fine.

BTW I am pretty sure that is a kerker pipe which is just about the best sounding and riding street pipe short of an R/C or Yosh pipe (both of which are rare as hens teeth).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I was pretty sure it wasn't a stock tank. It will have to do for now since I'm on a pretty tight budget.

How do you mean originality? Since I will eventually be making a cafe out of it, it doesn't matter much. I just like the original F tank better than what's on there now. oh well, it holds gas and that's what matters right now.

Thanks for the info on the exhaust too. I like the sound of it but in person, the cam chain rattle is louder than the pipes at idle. That will need to be adjusted as soon as I get my haynes manual from ebay.

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quote:
I was pretty sure it wasn't a stock tank. It will have to do for now since I'm on a pretty tight budget.

How do you mean originality? Since I will eventually be making a cafe out of it, it doesn't matter much. I just like the original F tank better than what's on there now. oh well, it holds gas and that's what matters right now.

Thanks for the info on the exhaust too. I like the sound of it but in person, the cam chain rattle is louder than the pipes at idle. That will need to be adjusted as soon as I get my haynes manual from ebay.

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cam chain or primary chain? SOHC cb750s are inherently noisy engines. The primary chain makes an awful racket which stops (or at least lessens) when you pull the clutch in. If your cam chain is making a racket it is probably time for replacement and to replace the adjuster as the adjuster fails on them often enough as well. One of the cb750 chopper places (i think cycle exchange) had a geared adjuster which was supposed to last a lot longer than the stock honda one.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Maybe this is a dumb question but here it goes anyway. How do I tell? I imagine I just take off the engine covers and poke around until something feels looser than it should? I'm waiting on my Haynes manual which I will hopefully get soon.

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Discussion Starter #18
P.S. I'll try pulling the clutch tonight to see if it goes away at all.

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oh and by the way...here is another turd for your corn flakes:


you have to pull the motor out of the frame on a SOHC cb750 to do anything top end related other than a valve adjustment or chain adjustment. you can't get that valve cover off with the motor in the frame.
 
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