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Discussion Starter #261
Could get a Nourish mainshaft, which come in 3 lengths and they're a copy of a Triumph mainshaft, but splined for a Norton clutch. I picked one of these up from Dave Nourish for mine.
 

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Well, there you go!

I just sold off the last 50# of 5-speed parts from a near 100# stash I bought from Kenny Dreer as he was liquidating VR to move cross-country.

Sold for less than half what I paid him for it, and about 1/4 what it was worth. Somebody got lucky.
 

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I will have to keep that in mind, if I change mine out, Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #265 (Edited)
I don't know to be honest with you Dougal. I know a chap that happens to have a stash of parts for Weslake / Nourish engines, so I dropped my engine off for him to pull it apart, examine and re-assemble. I'd expect it would be no different to a pre unit engine, but I haven't had it in bits.

Picked up a DID o-ring chain for it today. Just a little bit wider than my old chain, but still plenty of clearance. I'll crimp that joint link in the mining.

image.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #266
Had a re-think for the oil filter and ended up moving it lower down behind the gearbox. Made this little bracket after cutting a template out in cardboard and got the folds the right way around as I made it from one piece.

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Sits here now and these dummy lines have a smooth run to it.

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Drilling those holes saved a fair amount of weight and I could tell the difference by feel. Painting just one small thing like this was a pain in the arse, but etched it and top coated it as before. Put a new filter on and fresh oil lines and it's ready to bolt back on. I'll lock wire the pair of cap head screws, otherwise its done.

image.jpeg
 

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Had a re-think for the oil filter and ended up moving it lower down behind the gearbox. Made this little bracket after cutting a template out in cardboard and got the folds the right way around as I made it from one piece.

View attachment 19337

Sits here now and these dummy lines have a smooth run to it.

View attachment 19338

Drilling those holes saved a fair amount of weight and I could tell the difference by feel. Painting just one small thing like this was a pain in the arse, but etched it and top coated it as before. Put a new filter on and fresh oil lines and it's ready to bolt back on. I'll lock wire the pair of cap head screws, otherwise its done.

View attachment 19339
The 1st time you spin the filter off the bracket will bend at the end of the angular gusset. These filters are better mounted to the inside of the engine plate using the mounts in the casting. They can be tucked up and out of the way. Are you are still opting for the spin on LP filter in the HP line or is it fitted scavenge side?

Is this the same bike you were building when I joined this forum?
 

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Could get a Nourish mainshaft, which come in 3 lengths and they're a copy of a Triumph mainshaft, but splined for a Norton clutch. I picked one of these up from Dave Nourish for mine.
Dave Nourish isn't involved at NRE any more and hasn't been for 3 years. Getting anything out of "new" NRE at the moment is a nightmare, slow and little stock, I am told.

One piece crank production has slowed to a trickle.
 

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The bike was registered in 1972 as a Triton and is noted as being 'assembled from parts' on its V5, so that's why it's on an L prefix. Frame is 1961/62 so an early one really. Lucky it didn't get a crap 'Q' I guess.

Those wireless brake lights work from an accelerometer sensor and are pretty good. There's a few around now from £8 to nearly £50. The expensive ones look like they would fit into my tail light, but the cheaper ones won't.

InSight Combination Brake/Tail Light with integral battery
You can fit a single rev counter tacho and oil pressure instrument. Rev counters are analogue needle, digital speedo register and oil pressure reading. Complicated guts but simple layout in the cockpit, about £325.

Q plates are sort after nowadays, it tells the world the bike is period and the DVLA tend to go easy with changes therefore. Its becoming more difficult to build from parts in the UK (and Europe main) as the DVLA are demanding more and more evidence that a bike is of its period - Too many dicks building brand new bikes and using old documents are partly to blame. Even changing CC's is a chore (eg fitting a 1260cc big bore kit to a GSX as the DVLA respond with Suzuki never built an engine that size and you end up in a looped discussion) or fitting different engines into old chassis. Single vehicle inspection or certificates from restorers or garages that the work has been carried out a proper standard is becoming the norm. I tried to register a 1925 Harley JD (original bike) last year and it was a nightmare, I couldn't get an acceptable dating certificate as records don't exist, even the Harley Museum couldn't help as phrases like "of the type produced" didn't cut it. I gave up a handed the bike to its owner to sort.

I too have a Triton project on the go, register as a Triton, the frame is stamped 1958 and then the original builders nickname and that is what is stamped on the chassis and is on the V5. However the engine was originally a T110 and changed years ago to a T140 but never changed on the book. Should I tell the DVLA?

AND how does a wireless stop light get through an MOT?
 

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Discussion Starter #271
Bracket doesn't bend at all when a tight filter is unscrewed, so I'll be keeping it. It also comes off the scavenge line, which I'm sure I was asked about last year. Filter is a higher pressure type, so won't burst., aviation and Motorsport use them.

Yes, it's the same bike, life and my day job got in the way. I'm in no rush to finish it, but thanks for the comments.
 

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Bracket doesn't bend at all when a tight filter is unscrewed, so I'll be keeping it. It also comes off the scavenge line, which I'm sure I was asked about last year. Filter is a higher pressure type, so won't burst., aviation and Motorsport use them.

Yes, it's the same bike, life and my day job got in the way. I'm in no rush to finish it, but thanks for the comments.
Or maybe the year before!

I understand that the filter on Weslake / NRE engine goes in the pressure line before oil gets to the crankshaft but hey its your crankshaft. The scavenge side is low pressure and the spin on of the type shown is not high pressure its a standard Commando Mk3 type and are designed to fit low pressure systems. Spins ons are usually fitted on the low pressure side returning to tank or sump.
 

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Discussion Starter #273
Yeah, could have been longer. I'll check, but filter is on same connections they've always been on with this engine. Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #275
I need some inlet stubs and gauze filters, but it's tight

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Made a couple of cables up and found a TZ type throttle which is better quality to that of the old one I had.

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Discussion Starter #278
Just need clutch and ignition fitting, then I'm finally ready to start it up. These headers are mk2 and are more of an equal length.

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