Cafe Racer Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Now that I got your interest...opening a can of worms here.
Synthetic oil in older yamaha 4 strokes..(sr500)
Is this a good Idea?

Yes Yamalube was the factory recommended way to go but it seems the formulations have changed lots over the years and am looking for better stuff..

True, all the makers recommend their own oil for use in their bikes and thru the years oil grade's and formulations are accepted for use in older model's, but there must be even better stuff out there for the older bike to use...

I do favor the newer full synthetic oils over the non synthetic or synth. blends as they have proven to me to be much better in my opinion. (my personal asshole opinion anyway)..
I would use Yamalube yet it is a synth.blend in my weight requirement ,but have heard Honda is putting out some exceptionally good oils that are possibly of full synthetic..???

I have been looking at Redline or Amsoil's full synthetics... Thoughts?... thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,548 Posts
My thought is why not? I thought about it in the sidecar but a friend in Ireland tried some full synthetic in his old BSA. I guess the synthetic he used was "watery" in comparison to his regular oil. The net result was it pissed out of everywhere. Maybe BSA mating surfaces aren't quite what we thought they were. But Japs don't leak so give it a try. Another asshole opinion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
Discussion Starter #3

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
AMSOILS White paper on motorcycle oils...anyone have a copy or valid LINK?
Its not available at Amsoils site anymore.. possibly scued info??
Could be a good read none the less..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,015 Posts
quote:Originally posted by Hoofhearted

My thought is why not? I thought about it in the sidecar but a friend in Ireland tried some full synthetic in his old BSA. I guess the synthetic he used was "watery" in comparison to his regular oil. The net result was it pissed out of everywhere. Maybe BSA mating surfaces aren't quite what we thought they were. But Japs don't leak so give it a try. Another asshole opinion.
Do you know why the British don't make computers? They can't figure out how to make them leak oil. BSA is a British bike, of course it's going to leak oil.:) And Lucas invented the 3 position light switch, off, on, and flicker.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,015 Posts
quote:Originally posted by Tonnystark

found some additional reading... dated but quite interesting to what is found..

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm

first part, 2 part series..

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/

2nd part

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0310_oil/viewall.html


another solid paper yet an opinion that helps to clarify ..
http://www.post610.org/truth_about_motorcycle_oils.htm
That last article was a good read. They mention the best synthetic is usually the cheapest but don't tell you what that is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,548 Posts
quote:Originally posted by o1marc[/i And Lucas invented the 3 position light switch, off, on, and flicker.


That must have been the top of the line Lucas switch. All the ones I ever saw were off, off and off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,459 Posts
I never had any problems with Lucas stuff, except when the vibration made things fall off, guess I'm just lucky or all of you are cursed? :D
I use full synthetic in all my bikes, but, I do add about 2 oz of ZDDP
You may get clutch slip with original plates, newer clutch friction plates are made of different material (and don't have any asbestos in them)
Anything newer than around 1995 should be OK
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,595 Posts
I race an XT500. Several years ago I asked a Torco Oils tech what oil I should use, he recommended their synthetic blend. He didn't think I'd reap much more benefit from their fully synthetic product.
I don't have access to Torco anymore, so now I'm using Golden Spectro Semi-synthetic, for the same reason.
I think one of the things he mentioned was max RPM of my 500 single was well within the capabilities of the blend...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,459 Posts
Nope, you can use thinner oil with same protection so less power needed to pump it round engine
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,778 Posts
I run synthetic in my Ascot racebike. It works fine. I use the Rotella from Walmart in the gallon jugs. It is cheap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
830 Posts
+1 on Rotella. I use the synthetic in my personal bikes and dino in the training bikes. I change the oil when I feel like it, usually not very often.

I can state that in all the years of riding and racing I've done, and over 100+ bikes owned, from bone stock to extremely modified, I have NEVER had an oil-related engine failure - and given the spectrum of oils I have used, from exotic synthetics to stuff I found at the convenience store, should have had some bearing (pun intended) on the health or function of lubricated parts if they were substandard oils. I never had any partiality to any brand or mix of oils. Rotella is cheap and plentiful, that's the only reason I use it.

The only exception is Blendzall - I used to use that stuff in my race two-strokes because I liked how it smelled.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,740 Posts
I love the smell of race oil in the morning. That smell,,,it smells like victory!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
842 Posts
I was a firm beliver in Castrol GTX untill 3-4 years ago when the EPA mandated less zinc in oils swaped to the Syn Rotella (blue jug) from walymart or Tractor supply who ever has it on sale for most of my stuff. Old well abused bikes like my 52 Harley K model get Brad Penn oil.

http://www.penngrade1.com/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,047 Posts
+1 Rotella semi from the hydraulics shop up the road..
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top