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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys. I have a 1973 750 commando fastback and a Triton running a 650 unit engine. I will be honest and confess to not using them at all some years but even when I do use on occasions they both have a tendancy over time to wet-sump.
So what is there I can do to realistically reduce this or is it a waste of time money and effort trying??
Non'return valves, do they work?
Years ago I had a matchless G9 and installed an on/off valve for the same reason. Personally it did never cause a problem by forgetting to turn the supply on.
What is the best cure?
 

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You already know the best cure. Ride them..... but that's me being hypocritical. I don't use them and never have, so can't offer up any personal experience . The bikes that I have that wet sump just happen to have semi convenient drain plugs or a breather that can be accessed and oil sucked out. If you do install an anti wetsumping valve, just make sure the valve and line are primed before you fire it up. If I were you, I'd have a look around some of the Brit bike forums although you may come away still scratching your head. There is a lot of discussion about them. Start with the NOC. If I was going to use an on off, I think I'd want a kill switch attached to it. The fear of the consequences might be sufficient for me to remember, but I'm not getting any smarter with age.
There is also the school of thought that it is beneficial to have a little extra oil in the sump at startup, so oil gets flung around to the bits that aren't "pressure" fed, which takes you back to that best cure.

ps... Didn't Mk3 Commando have one built into the timing cover? Maybe a timing cover swap is possible, but I gather the valves didn't always work.
 

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I have a bike the will wet sump after 3-4 day of sitting. My SOP is to pull down my road turn the gas off let it idle in the driveway until the carb runs dry, this also lets the oil pump catch up and fill the oil bag. I then grab my funnel and my 5gt oil jug and pull the oil bag drain let it drain while I attach a tag to the handlebars "NO OIL". next ride pour the oil in and remove the tag from the bars and attach it to the oil jug.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Cheers for the replies, yes I did answer my own question. Walked straight into that reply. Will probably plumb a valve into my Triton as it's a special and living in my lounge at the moment. It saves any grief from my better half.
as for the Commando, draining may be the option. Cheers!
 

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Cheers for the replies, yes I did answer my own question. Walked straight into that reply. Will probably plumb a valve into my Triton as it's a special and living in my lounge at the moment. It saves any grief from my better half.
as for the Commando, draining may be the option. Cheers!

The Triumph engine shouldn't require any valve in the feed line, ever.

Drain the oil if yours is just living room art.

Their check valve balls have always worked quite well as long as the oil is free of garbage and the seats for the balls are in decent condition, which is easy to make happen in the event they are not.
 

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Ref the Triumph Sometimes oil can seep past the ball valves but as mentioned that's rare. To check that the balls valves are seating, remove the timing cover, and then the pump, remove the square headed bolts and then the springs on the bottom of the pump and the plungers. Clean all parts.

Put the small ball bearing back were they came from (if the are marked get new ones) and then with a flat ended punch or longish bolt and with a light hammer gentle tap the balls gently to reseat them. Fit new springs are refit the retaining bolts and reassemble.

Norton's are notorious for sumping. You can fit a tap inline on the feed but on a plain bearing engine if you forget to open the tap or the tap vibrates shut (yes it can) you are stuffed. Suffer the sumping its safer.

If the bikes are living indoors the higher ambient temp just accelerates the sumping. Just drain everything.
 

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Ref the Triumph Sometimes oil can seep past the ball valves but as mentioned that's rare. To check that the balls valves are seating, remove the timing cover, and then the pump, remove the square headed bolts and then the springs on the bottom of the pump and the plungers. Clean all parts.

Put the small ball bearing back were they came from (if the are marked get new ones) and then with a flat ended punch or longish bolt and with a light hammer gentle tap the balls gently to reseat them. Fit new springs are refit the retaining bolts and reassemble.

Norton's are notorious for sumping. You can fit a tap inline on the feed but on a plain bearing engine if you forget to open the tap or the tap vibrates shut (yes it can) you are stuffed. Suffer the sumping its safer.

If the bikes are living indoors the higher ambient temp just accelerates the sumping. Just drain everything.
exactly that on ball check seats
in the hydraulics repair shop we also had a set of long shank ball end tungsten carbide burs
for a badly knackered ball seat ...but that is a different story(hydraulic jacks with a screw thread shut off mashing the ball into the seat) mainly to recut the actual seat then narrow the seat using a size smaller and a size larger same idea as a 3 angle popet valve seat regrind in a cylinder head
the finish was a fresh ball and a gentle to medium whack with an aluminum or brass punch and a light hammer
i usually garner new ball bearings from new radial ball bearings that i have collected over the years as there are only a few sizes of balls used worldwide
 
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