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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Project n'gagi -- 1975 BMW r90/6

Hey guys!

I dig this forum - get some solid idea's from here.

I am new to the forums in a registered member sense, but I have been lurking often in forms of research for my bike before buying it.

Quick run down:
26 years old
live in Sydney
currently ride a '06 VTR1000f which I love, man I love Honda's
just purchased my 1975 BMW r90/6 which I am going to do a full strip/rebuild in to a cafe racer

So this is my bike on its way home:



The bike itself is in mechanically really good condition, engine is strong as, and the only leak is the one fuel tap...hopefully it stays that way :) cosmetically it needs love, but thats why I got it, it would be boring otherwise!

Bike set for tear down


Bike stripped down:


Looking over the frame this is the worst of the rust which was located under the master cylinder

What I plan to do:
- repaint the frame/sub-frame/drive shafr with 2pac paint
- soda blast engine and gearbox to clean it up
- build own bubble cowl for the rear and have a crack at building a seat pad as well
- repaint tins and newly constructed cowl with 2pac paint

Questions I have
- the front and rear fenders are fibreglass, do you guys paint strip/prep/paint or sand/prep/paint?
- that damn master cylinder - which master cylinder from which bike will suit a handle bar relocation? which one have you guys used?

I am using Motorworks BMW Motorcycle Specialists - Home to get my parts - best place ever....they are so awesome, helpful, great prices (compared to USA/AUS) and real quick shipping

I will do my best in keeping this thread updated with the bike build, but I am really going to take my time and do this nicely to one sweet ass build

Thanks guys!

Cheers,

Warren
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Pproject n'gagi -- 1975 bmw r90/6

I got the engine and frame separated (as earlier stated)



I got a set of custom BMW r90 purpose built rearsets from a dude in America who is a fabricator (BOXERMETAL.com) they were ever so slightly more expensive than other "retro fit ones" but man oh man they are awesome - one can see the effort put in those, and amazing quality. Check them out for other boxer/air head stuff

- - - Updated - - -

So i have been doing a bunch of cleaning and shaping.

First - the engine! ... that damn engine!

So i have used soda blasting...first i built a soda blasting "cabinet" that has been proudly sponsored by Riverbed ;-)




the engine was filthy...


and i tried it out on the filter cover just real quick - see if this all worked (never done ANYTHING like this before)


in comparison it works pretty awesome, and that was just a quick blast, so after a real good working over it looks great, ill have to grab a photo tomorrow with no soda residue on it, but here is a sneak peak


pretty bad ass result eh - but ill get a better pic tomorrow.

Then i moved on to the wheels - man they are a mess...anyways,

rear hub before:


and after a working over:


and the side of the hub:


and after:


so it appears i am getting the hang of it! I need to replace all of the bolts to stainless so it looks better and i have new sets of spokes to respoke the wheel (also something i havent done before!)

I have "sealed" the cleaned parts with some silicon - i know i will need to re-apply it but thats ok...better than putting a clear over it and it yellowing.

next post...seat cowl
 

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Discussion Starter #3
and the seat cowl!

So i have just completed the plug for the seat cowl - i was heaps nervouse initially but after i got it taped up i was stoked how well it went.

So first i got the frame built and some plant foam in place (sizing it up)


Then i started shaping it up:


...and pretty much shaped:


then i put some builders bog over it (one of THREE layers..)


after about 5 hours of bog/sand/bog/sand etc...


so after wraping the plug in painters tape and a layer of wax (bunch more layers of wax tomorrow and then 1:1 of PVA glue/water before fibreglassing)


so i will be fibreglassing this week - get my seat cranking!!

here is my little store room with a little work bench :)


- - - Updated - - -

seat cowl is complete (to an extent)

So I glassed the cowl with 4 layers of FG...







Then when that finally set, i removed the mould from the plug:





not with out spilling some claret - this is it cleaned up, it bled a lot OK :lol3



and a bit of trimming to make it look better:






Next step is to high fill the mould ready for primer and paint

- - - Updated - - -

so the seat has been high filled to make it as smooth as I can, 4 layers of primer has been layed on it and its ready to be sanded/painted...stoked. I will make the seat for it later and wrap the seat cover around the bottom of the seat and rivet it along the side to finish it off.





Next step is to prep the tank and my fairings (im using the stock front fairing but i need to find a replacement rear fearing, i dont want the stock one (goes up under the seat) does anyone know of a fairing that will fit the bike that i could replace it with? i was thinking of just taking the width of the fairing and radius and find one that will fit at the wreckers.

the tank stripped and looking like it needs some love





the old tank badges retired from its duty



do you guys think that i should put my nose fairing on? i think i should - it would look pretty bad ass all painted up and mounted

 

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Discussion Starter #4
next pics will be of the tank stripped of paint, i have a small dent to fix - then high fill, bit of primer and then the same for the front guard (still need to track a rear guard that doesnt go under the seat pan) then its time to rig a paint booth at home :-|
 

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So did you actually make a mold or just make the seat off the buck. If the buck (the wooden part) was as smooth as you want the finished product you would use wax or mold release agent and then fiberglass over that to make a mold that would be smooth on the interior and then you would use wax or release agent inside it to start laying fiberglass so when you took the seat out from under the mold the outer surface would be smooth with almost now filler needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So did you actually make a mold or just make the seat off the buck. If the buck (the wooden part) was as smooth as you want the finished product you would use wax or mold release agent and then fiberglass over that to make a mold that would be smooth on the interior and then you would use wax or release agent inside it to start laying fiberglass so when you took the seat out from under the mold the outer surface would be smooth with almost now filler needed.
hey mate - yea i realised this afterwards...i know silly me, but what can you do? its all done now, its smooth as how it stands at the moment.

I made everything, wood surround, foam shaping etc etc.
 

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hey mate - yea i realised this afterwards...i know silly me, but what can you do? its all done now, its smooth as how it stands at the moment.

I made everything, wood surround, foam shaping etc etc.
Your method was the same time saving method Bob used when making the nose on the Bonneville car we built. When asked how he designed the nose he said "I glued 3 big blocks of foam together, drew the shape of the firewall on one end, got out the chainsaw and cut off anything that didn't look like it would go 300mph." :cool:

 

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hey mate - yea i realised this afterwards...i know silly me, but what can you do? its all done now, its smooth as how it stands at the moment.

I made everything, wood surround, foam shaping etc etc.
I say "good job you're doing here". I especially like the black Jim Beam box under the shelf, my favorite brand for many years, although now I've taken up with Knob Creek single barrel reserve. Very smooth.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I say "good job you're doing here". I especially like the black Jim Beam box under the shelf, my favorite brand for many years, although now I've taken up with Knob Creek single barrel reserve. Very smooth.
Thanks heaps Vintange...hahah yea dad brought that jim bean box home??? i have no idea why. but its good for the tools ;)

So all i had time to do on the weekend was sort out the tunnel in the tank - there was some surface rust that was caused by a faulty master brake cylinder squirting fluid over everything stripping the paint and da da..! RUST!

So i stripped it back, sanded, converted the rust, cleaned and primed it - looking a lot better now.

The next step this weekend is to do the whole tank, strip it back, smooth it out if required, prep and prime it - and the same for the front guard, sand it back, make sure all looks nice, prime and then i can look in to painting!

Obligatory picture included

Tank rust before some work:

 

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hey guys -

did my tank last night, so i had the issue of paint that i wanted to strip, and a dent i needed to repair...

So this is my little dent, not big at all...probably the size of an aussie $1 :)


I stripped the paint back, filled and sanded the dent, and voilà, no more dent!


Here is the tank completely stripped and primed :)

Stoked how it came out....(although it couldnt be that hard right - but i still get excited)


I am going to buy my paints this week - I am using original BMW colours for the tins/guards etc
 

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original BMW paint is BASF stuff. make sure you look through the chip books, there are some great 1970s colors in there. If you are going black I would use the newer VAG/BMW/Mercedes black colors - they just seem to be much better/deeper than the old stuff which ends up looking kind of flat. Go to a VW dealer and look at the new jettas if you want to see what I mean.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
original BMW paint is BASF stuff
What is BASF? do you mean base colour?

original BMW paint is BASF stuff. make sure you look through the chip books, there are some great 1970s colors in there. If you are going black I would use the newer VAG/BMW/Mercedes black colors - they just seem to be much better/deeper than the old stuff which ends up looking kind of flat. Go to a VW dealer and look at the new jettas if you want to see what I mean.
Thanks heaps Geeto,

I will keep that in mind. I was thinking a silver with two blue stripes down the tank/fender/nose cone/seat etc? With the black frame it would be keeping with the BMW logo colours :)

So you recommend steering clear of BMW colours - check! The guy did have a whole book of colours so I can spend a bit more time looking through them then.
 

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What is BASF? do you mean base colour?



Thanks heaps Geeto,

I will keep that in mind. I was thinking a silver with two blue stripes down the tank/fender/nose cone/seat etc? With the black frame it would be keeping with the BMW logo colours :)

So you recommend steering clear of BMW colours - check! The guy did have a whole book of colours so I can spend a bit more time looking through them then.

BASF is the manufacturer of BMW's paint under the subsidary name Glasruit. Any Glasruit paint is up to the same quality standards as what BMW passes through their paint gun. Look for a Glasruit/BASF dealer if you want authentic OEM paint. Not all BMW colors are covered by Dupont or PPG, only the popular ones and while the color is as good there might be some variances in the shade. If you buy directly from BMW you will get raped on the price, any BASF/Glasruit independant dealer can sell you the same stuff for less and it is gauranteed to be the same stuff.

I am NOT recommending steering clear of BMW colors at all. Just some of the vintage color mixtures aren't as good as the modern stuff. There are many great and crazy colors BMW used in the 70's and 80's, some for only one model and one year, and looking at the color chip book might inspire you. My favorite right now is yukon blue - a color BMW used only in 1986 and only on R80RTs sold in North America. It is a navy metallic blue that looks black in shadow but is noticeably sparkly blue in sunlight. I became aware of it when I bought an original paint R80Rt and in person it is stunning, but it doesn't photograph well. One trend I think is fantastic is factory BMW paint schemes in non-bmw factory colors, including the fades. I saw recently where someone did a R90S style green fade similar to the smoke cherry on the R100S (BMW never did a green fade). I have also seen a red done like daytona orange fade, and also the R69S dove gray with both motorsport pinstripes and electric blue pinstripes. All looked stunning.

BASF is the supplier to VW and audi as well so the black that is available to them is also available to BMW, it is BMWs choice not to use it. BMW's vintage motorcycle black isn't as vibrant as the new black VW/Audi is using on their cars for some reason. Even BMW's modern black isn't as good as VW/audi's black. Believe it or not there are hundreds of formulations for the color black that all lead to subtle variances, most you won't even notice.

Some advice on your stripes - don't do two thick line stripes next to each other without pinstipes flanking it on either side. Why? it looks amateur. Look at the stripes on a 1970 chevelle, or a 1969 camaro and you will see what i mean. The 1966 Shelby mustang is one of the few cars that can pull it off, why? because a) the stripes are really wide, b) if you look closely they aren't straight - they actually bend to the contor of the bodywork so that they look like they are going straight down even when the panel curves underneath. It is an optical illusion and a very good one and one that is hard to pull off. I think you can be more creative than just two stripes down the center, look at a lot of other bikes and see what catches your fancy.

Honestly, I am sooooo....over rallye stripes anyway - everybody and their brother uses them when they can't be creative.

As far as silver is concerned - some of the best silvers I have been seeing recently have been coming from american cars. GM has a color called cyber gray that has blue and green flecks in it, and I think it was ford that had one with a slight blue pearl cast to it. Silver to me is kinda boring though - If you are gonna go, go for the gusto!!!!! a proper racer should be eye catching, not blend into traffic. On your way home count how many silver cars you see, and then tell me if you want to be that - part of the big mass of glittery gray traffic.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
BASF is the manufacturer of BMW's paint under the subsidary name Glasruit. Any Glasruit paint is up to the same quality standards as what BMW passes through their paint gun. Look for a Glasruit/BASF dealer if you want authentic OEM paint. Not all BMW colors are covered by Dupont or PPG, only the popular ones and while the color is as good there might be some variances in the shade. If you buy directly from BMW you will get raped on the price, any BASF/Glasruit independant dealer can sell you the same stuff for less and it is gauranteed to be the same stuff.

I am NOT recommending steering clear of BMW colors at all. Just some of the vintage color mixtures aren't as good as the modern stuff. There are many great and crazy colors BMW used in the 70's and 80's, some for only one model and one year, and looking at the color chip book might inspire you. My favorite right now is yukon blue - a color BMW used only in 1986 and only on R80RTs sold in North America. It is a navy metallic blue that looks black in shadow but is noticeably sparkly blue in sunlight. I became aware of it when I bought an original paint R80Rt and in person it is stunning, but it doesn't photograph well. One trend I think is fantastic is factory BMW paint schemes in non-bmw factory colors, including the fades. I saw recently where someone did a R90S style green fade similar to the smoke cherry on the R100S (BMW never did a green fade). I have also seen a red done like daytona orange fade, and also the R69S dove gray with both motorsport pinstripes and electric blue pinstripes. All looked stunning.

BASF is the supplier to VW and audi as well so the black that is available to them is also available to BMW, it is BMWs choice not to use it. BMW's vintage motorcycle black isn't as vibrant as the new black VW/Audi is using on their cars for some reason. Even BMW's modern black isn't as good as VW/audi's black. Believe it or not there are hundreds of formulations for the color black that all lead to subtle variances, most you won't even notice.

Some advice on your stripes - don't do two thick line stripes next to each other without pinstipes flanking it on either side. Why? it looks amateur. Look at the stripes on a 1970 chevelle, or a 1969 camaro and you will see what i mean. The 1966 Shelby mustang is one of the few cars that can pull it off, why? because a) the stripes are really wide, b) if you look closely they aren't straight - they actually bend to the contor of the bodywork so that they look like they are going straight down even when the panel curves underneath. It is an optical illusion and a very good one and one that is hard to pull off. I think you can be more creative than just two stripes down the center, look at a lot of other bikes and see what catches your fancy.

Honestly, I am sooooo....over rallye stripes anyway - everybody and their brother uses them when they can't be creative.

As far as silver is concerned - some of the best silvers I have been seeing recently have been coming from american cars. GM has a color called cyber gray that has blue and green flecks in it, and I think it was ford that had one with a slight blue pearl cast to it. Silver to me is kinda boring though - If you are gonna go, go for the gusto!!!!! a proper racer should be eye catching, not blend into traffic. On your way home count how many silver cars you see, and then tell me if you want to be that - part of the big mass of glittery gray traffic.
First of all Geeto - thanks heaps mate - i appreciate you taking the time out to write that lengthy and real informative post. Helps so much.

I have taken your suggestions on board for sure - I will probably re-think the stripes, and the silver, makes sense...i do want to turn heads...not just be old mate in the traffic

I will have to rethink the layout and colours. I think some epic googling is in order in regards to paint-layout-inspirations

i was even thinking powder coating the frame blue and then tins silver, but that would be way too heavy on the maintenance side of things

Ill get googling Geeto - hit you back up for idea's in regards to designs/ideas

thanks again mate, really appreciate it eh
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I GOT IT!!

BRIGHT ORANGE tank and seat cowl - then black front and rear fenders with black frame

that will pop for SURE - people will LOVE that stuff

what do you guys reckon?
 

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Looks great I'm in the middle of a BMW r100 cafe,,, did my own seat too.....I'm deciding on whether to do a 1/4 fairing or not...
 

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Jamie waters used to have a really cracking 900ss ducati that he raced. A race bike all its life it was sonoco blue frame with sonoco yellow bodywork. Its an old pic so the colors are off:



hard to beat John player black with gold pinstripes:


I like the dove gray with blue pinstripes - in other pics I have seen the stripes are brighter:


like porsches they look good in bright solid colors:


but I like the ritmo sereno bikes:












love the stripes on this:


have a look around this site:

BMW Motorcycle Colour Schemes

all bmw colors and schemes going back to the 70's.
 
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