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I have just purchased a PVL ignition from Buff Harsh at Todd Henning Racing. It says that timing should be 2 mm BTD. I can use a drop indicator thru the plug hole to determine TDC. But here is my delima,
Indicator movement does not move in line with piston to set timing.
Because plug hole is at an angle. Should I use indicator to determine TDC and then use a degree wheel to set timing? And if so how many degrees BTD would equal 2mm. I don't even know where I would
purchase a degree wheel or how to mount it to the crank.

Some advice would be appreciated

Thanks Rob
 

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motion pro sells degree wheels....order direct or through parts unlimited dealer.

mount it on the crank where the bolt goes to hold the pvl rotor onto the crank.

texy

p.s. - the stock bolt is too long and will eventually break off in the crank when using an impact to take it on and off. i speak from experience......
 

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Didn't he send it with the keyway cut? IS this for your 350? "Normally" these bikes are set between 38-40 degrees of advance. Instead of buying the wheel you can make your own with a protractor . . . or you can borrow mine.
 

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regardless of what anyone tells you. your pvl will make the most power if it is set to 44 degrees of advance btdc. i have had mine set up by pete talabach of mach 1 racing a couple of times. the dyno does not lie

matt tanner
 

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hey I'm glad you guys are starting to get this thread rolling because i was watching this one hoping to pick up some useful info, ill be putting a pvl on my 350 in the near future and the more you guys say now the better for me
 

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Discussion Starter #8
quote:Originally posted by imslow

Didn't he send it with the keyway cut? IS this for your 350? "Normally" these bikes are set between 38-40 degrees of advance. Instead of buying the wheel you can make your own with a protractor . . . or you can borrow mine.
It did come with the keyway cut for my 350. But I still want to check and confirm timing anyway. From what I have read it's critical to have proper timing. Thanks for offering yours, but will try to purchase one first. Thanks Rob
 

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Tex is correct. If you use the stock bolt make sure you cut some off to shorten it. I think a quarter inch or so. Start with yours set to whatever Buff recommends for timing if it's a stock motor. If it's not stock start with Monkey's recommendation and get to the dyno to see what works best for your motor. Either way to make the most power get to the dyno. The timing numbers vary between motors.

With the head on the motor you'll need to use the degree wheel to find the correct settings. If the head is not on the bike you can use the 2mm BTDC setting.
 

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craigs advice is spot on. he managed to say what i wanted to. the only way to really tune them is on the dyno. and they are all different.

jc
 

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Evel,

Timing light will work once you have made marks on the installation plate that holds stator to the engine. The light shows where it's firing, it doesn't show how many degrees BTDC. After it's installed and run on the dyno to see what you want for ignition timing make a mark on the backing plate that lines up with a mark on the rotor. Then in the future you can use the timing light to get back to the marks and settings you used at the dyno.

And just a pet peeve of mine, but since Buff is making a buck or two off of these PVLs doesn't he answer these questions for his customers? Does he sell the tools needed to install his parts?

Craig
 

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I've heard he's hard to get a hold of.

Craig, thanks for the advice, as I'll wind up doing something this winter to mine and I'll need to re-time.

s
 

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i like buff. hes a good guy, but he sucks at running the business. too many people have had problems getting his stuff setup. his mounting plates blow. the exhaust design only works if you have the correct rearsets and belly pan, and hes impossible to get on the phone sometimes. i know hes super busy with kids and bikes and his team, but alot of guys have those things. like i said, i like him as a dude at the track, but hed make his life, and other lives, a lot easier if he gave some parts support.

i bought my pvl from buff, but i used chris' plate. after seeing jnotds plate, im glad i did. and fortunately i had chris' expertise when i installed it. otherwise, i might have some of the same questions a lot of people do. you know, not being very smart and all.

as far as installing the pvl, its a bit of a crap shoot for tuning. the only way to get it tuned in 100% is on the dyno. mine wasnt keyed. i marked the cases using the old stator plate etc, with a straight edge, then mounted the rotor, and watched for spark between the 2 marks. moving the rotor appropriately. between eyeballing the marks, getting the rotor on by eye, and the variables in the mounting plate, there are a million places it can go wrong. it will be good enough to run, and race, but youre not going to get the full advantage without the dyno.

maybe buff should send a dyno with every pvl......hehehe....

jc
 

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Hey RPaquette, you owe Lonwolf a BIG favor . . . . Like coming in second in Sept.

He was the one who corrected my scoring error in FCB that put you into second place . . .
 

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buff supplied me with the goods.

the pvl is a pain since you need to remove the plate to adjust the pickups.

my pvl was installed using a piston stop and degree wheel. the mounting bolt was not shortened.. pete installed a spacer that rests on the outside of the rotor.

once the pvl was set up.... a dyno was used to make sure things were right.

i believe there is room for error but anly a dyno will allow you to dial it in for maximum performance.

buff is pretty easy to get in touch with for a guy who has 2 kids... i know exactly what he is dealing with. hopefully he is having fun... i am. me and my dude are going boogie boarding in a few.. ha ha
 

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Hey how many of you guys are running the pvl with a dry seal
Any opinion as to weather wet or dry is the way to go???
 

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I agree with evel it is better wet.

And the PVL should work longer if it's dry. There are a lot of people that have been using it for a long time without a seal. There are a lot of people that use it with a seal to keep everything dry. My opinion is electrical items seem to last longer when they are dry. And a new PVL is friken expensive. And a seal is cheap. I use a seal to keep it dry (the PVL).

Monkey - have you ever needed to adjust the pickups after the initial assembly? Once my pickups were set to the required clearance they've never been removed from the mounting plate. And the mounting plate has never been removed from the side cover. Just curious if yours is moving.

Craig
 
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