i was gonna go, but since its going to cost me 500 bucks to run all the classes i want, to get into the track, and the gas, im not going. none of the guys from here are going either. that and jeremy not showing up is going to top it all off. id rather put the $$ into my bike and tools for the shop. besides, i need a new front fender. now, where can i get a ufo for a cb350??? see you at vir.
Hehe, yeah...we gotta sponsor Joe so he can race at the Isle of New Hampshire
I'll be there, if just to find out if running my engine with no oil hurt it. Just another four or five hours in the shop and I'll be ready to go. Of course I didn't touch the bikes for a month, decided to leave it all for this week.
Aaron, do you have any problems with the left side altenator cover leaking...the small round one? My welded up holes stripped out, then the helicoil kept pulling out. So I took a altenator stator, cut it apart until only the ring with the treaded bosses was left. Bolted that to the inside of the engine cover (large cover) and then just bolted on the round cover the same way it does when stock.
I'm getting tired of Mr. Strempher pointing out drops of oil hanging off my engine after a race.
Be careful if you weld it on, it will probably warp the shit out of it and the whole cover will leak.
My little round cover with the timing hole leaked cause it warped when I welded in the bung. So then I say what the hell, I'll only use the cover with the hole when I want to time it. Rest of them I'll use a standard cover..then the holes went south.
Mine also leaks just a tad by the kick starter shaft hole...where guess what... I welded the hole up...warped the cover just a bit there too.
I wanna get this thing as tight as Mary's 50, you can run that thing for a year and it won't leak a drop.
marshall and i will be there on friday night at somepoint. i dont know when. tex is comming too. get your 50cc ready to run there phinney. i'll be sure to let the air out of your tires before you go out!
I'm just welding the shit right out of them
I am using enough heat to melt the aluminum, I tried welding them without melting the metal and it would just fall apart.
Bolting them down is a good idea.... I think.
Although believe it or not, they always taught us that over clamping increases warpage. The forces at work trying to warp something when you weld it are in place whether you clamp something or not. When it's unclamped it will just go to the same place it wanted to from the get go.
With steel the key is tacking everything in place and learning which parts to weld in what order so the forces balance each other out. I'm real good at doing that with steel.
Aluminum is such a different animal though that bolting probably works good, it will streatch (streach?) so much easier when it gets hot. I've actually thought about draining the oil and just heating up the right side cover by the kick start shaft hole quite a bit while it's bolted down and see if it kind of stress relieves it.
I'm good at draining oil...not so good at putting it back in.
It's 1:30am and I just finished up in the shop. Bikes are ready to go. Mary's bike is like a timex, freakin oil comes out with not even a hair in it ( I strain everything). Valve adjustments still right on the money, no sign of tensioner wear at all. The experimental tensioner in my bike seems to be working great too.
Whadda ya think about the pistons? Seems like they've pasted the final shake down tests. Probably about time to re-order. I'm thinking I should include a set or two of 57mm and punch these babies up to 209cc.
I'm going to try to get the price down to around $200 a set by going back to machining the plug notch myself... I think they were charging me $35 a piston for that! So for I'll order 2 sets of 56mm for Mary and I, 1 set for you, at least 1 set of 57mm, 1 set of 56mm for Hiroshi Murata, at least 1 set for George Decamp, Chris Stein has said he wants a set...probably around 20 pistons all together..so I gotta come up with about $2000. Or a $1000 deposit anyway. I'll talk to Cometic about a batch of head gaskets in 56mm, and I want to get them to make copies of the oil pump, left side cover and right side cover for sloper 175's...that way we can buy brandy new vert CB175 gaskets sets and just substitute these three gaskets.
And did I mention...blah blah blah, and yada yada yada?
My new pipe seems to work better and bike now stops a little better. I can't seem to get the chatter to stop in turn 1. I'm going to try heavier weight saturday. I went to NHIS today to practice in the rain and it anded up being a beautiful day. No morons and a fairly clear track.
Let me know what the results of the heavier oil is.
I was getting just a tad of chatter there the last race.
If it's worse with the thicker oil, then go thinner than you are now.
I might try to change front tire pressure some too. Seems like less pressure might help as you'd think it would absorb more small bumps. But hell it might be the other way round for as I know. Never had the problem with my vert 175, course they are loaded more on the front. I say we come up with a longer swingarm for next year, maybe and inch, inch and half longer.
PS...or for that matter just use a couple more links in the chain and move the wheel as far back as you can.
by the way, when strempher gave me all the extra stuff from the 175, i got this swingarm that had about 1 or 1.25 inches extra welded to the middle of the two legs. Maybe it's time to finish it up and put it on.
I've heard the stock weighting on a 160 chassis is like 60/40 rear/front.. not very good. Although I recently read an article written in the 60's were they called the 160/175 sloper the best handling bike they had ever tested of any displacement. Course a stock bike has quite a bit more weight on the front.
Easy way would be to add a section, I've built SAs from scratch...it's a real pain in the ass to get them striaght and the bushing area on the 160 chassis has to fit exactly right or you have to pound the pivot in with a sledge hammer. Even the modified versions I run were a bitch to keep straight.
Aaron, I just got a couple or replacement magnet sleeves for the Pertronics... about $14 each. This time I'm going to cut the two unneeded magents out with an xacto knife instead of pulling the rear ring off. I'm still using the one that broke at Shannonville, but I've got it covered with JB Weld on the back...I should get a sponsorship from those guys.
When I made the sleeve to fit the pertronix, I made it so that back ring we pulled off to get the mags out is supported by a flange and is held against it by the mounting screw. so it can't come off/the magnets cant come out. famous last words as the engine dies on t3.