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Hi I just signed up to this forum and have a question regarding my XS 650 that is getting the cafe look. I have cut off the rear tail loop just behind the top rear shock mounts to add a flatter tail loop that will also house my small battery under the seat rear bubble. I need to fashion a rear tail loop to push back into the frame and weld into place. Should I construct this loop from solid bar or tubing? Bar would sure be easier to bend without kinking I would think.
Thanks Jeffery
 

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Use tubing. There's gotta be someone near you with a tubing bender. If not a conduit bender will work on that small of stuff. If not some of chassis shops sell driveshaft loop kits you could cut up and use. Or you could make a wood template. Fill the tube with sand and bend it around the template. Never done that, seems like too much work.

If you're saying you'll use a smaller o.d. tube to slide in the origninal framerail and weld it that will probably be wondermus. If you end up with a tube that doesn't slide into the original it wouldn't hurt to slip tube it, i.e. a smaller o.d. piece inside the bigger pieces to support the joint.
 

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Thanks for the response. Can I ask why your choice would be tubing rather then solid bar? I am planning on slipping whatever I decide to use inside the frame itself and weld it in place so the material I use will have to be a bit smaller then the frame tubing. It won't be supporting any more weight then a small battery up under the seat bubble.
Jeffery
 

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quote:Originally posted by jeffery

Thanks for the response. Can I ask why your choice would be tubing rather then solid bar? I am planning on slipping whatever I decide to use inside the frame itself and weld it in place so the material I use will have to be a bit smaller then the frame tubing. It won't be supporting any more weight then a small battery up under the seat bubble.
Jeffery
A. weight

B. How do you plan on bending solid bar? The manufacturer says my bender will do 1" solid, but just let me tell ya' I'm not gonna try it.
 

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you can bend tube on a hossfeld, but yes, it kinks. i did the tail loop on my 350 racer that way. it actually looks fine. you can fill it with sand or shot. it helps.

jc
 

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What did you make your loop out of that it kinked? My bender .063 gets touchy(ok kinks more often than not) anything thicker than that no prob.

I would make the loop out of either .083 or .095. Doesn't need to be that thick, but easy to work with and mig weld.

Got to thinking about this and had to run to the shop just now so I grabbed my die sheet. The only .063 I've ever bent was 1 1/4" or 1 1/2". All the dies for my bender 1" or smaller have an .058 or thinner minimum wall thickness. My bender has a preload dilly for the followbar that I've never used that's supposed to help for thin tubing. The only time I had trouble kinking was making dirt late model front bumpers. The bend that was giving trouble wasn't structural so I never bothered with it.
 

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I bend up exhaust with my Hossfeld down to .049 with no kinks. 16ga or thicker is no problem at all when it comes to kinks. If you bend the right tubing in the right die, no kinks....that's kinda the reason they make the dies :)

And who'd care about a few ripples on the inside bend of a tail section you can't see anyway.

Solid bar is for tractors, tubing is for motorcycles.
JohnnyB
 

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mines square tube, hence the kinks. and its almost a 6" horse shoe shape. i cant remember why we went with square anymore. there are kinks on the inside.

jc
 

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I think the best way to do this is to get a plug machined. This gets tapped into the native tube on one side and the bent piece gets tapped into the other. Then, you weld the whole thing round. I'd probably drill through the parent material a bit and put some rosette welds in as well.

As for the bent tube, there are plenty of places that will bend it up for you. 4x4 shops are the easiest and the coolest (from experience) to work with. Sometimes just paying the money is the easiest thing to do...and this is from a guy that tries to make everything.

--Chris
 
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