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Use tubing. There's gotta be someone near you with a tubing bender. If not a conduit bender will work on that small of stuff. If not some of chassis shops sell driveshaft loop kits you could cut up and use. Or you could make a wood template. Fill the tube with sand and bend it around the template. Never done that, seems like too much work.

If you're saying you'll use a smaller o.d. tube to slide in the origninal framerail and weld it that will probably be wondermus. If you end up with a tube that doesn't slide into the original it wouldn't hurt to slip tube it, i.e. a smaller o.d. piece inside the bigger pieces to support the joint.
 

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quote:Originally posted by jeffery

Thanks for the response. Can I ask why your choice would be tubing rather then solid bar? I am planning on slipping whatever I decide to use inside the frame itself and weld it in place so the material I use will have to be a bit smaller then the frame tubing. It won't be supporting any more weight then a small battery up under the seat bubble.
Jeffery
A. weight

B. How do you plan on bending solid bar? The manufacturer says my bender will do 1" solid, but just let me tell ya' I'm not gonna try it.
 

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What did you make your loop out of that it kinked? My bender .063 gets touchy(ok kinks more often than not) anything thicker than that no prob.

I would make the loop out of either .083 or .095. Doesn't need to be that thick, but easy to work with and mig weld.

Got to thinking about this and had to run to the shop just now so I grabbed my die sheet. The only .063 I've ever bent was 1 1/4" or 1 1/2". All the dies for my bender 1" or smaller have an .058 or thinner minimum wall thickness. My bender has a preload dilly for the followbar that I've never used that's supposed to help for thin tubing. The only time I had trouble kinking was making dirt late model front bumpers. The bend that was giving trouble wasn't structural so I never bothered with it.
 
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