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Discussion Starter #1
Just curious how some of you solved this common rear brake actuator rod problem:

On my 350, I've got a set of Tarozzi's with the brake linkage run above the rearset to the arm on the rear drum (which is pointing up). Last summer, because I was in a hurry I just used some M6 all-thread running straight back, bent in behind the rear shock then back again to the brake arm on the drum. Of course, the problem is flex. With the linkage adjusted as best as can be, at least half of the travel on the rear brake lever is taken up by flex in the linkage. I knew it was stupid when I put it together and now I'm sick of it.

Gonna try some hardened steel rod today. I'll run a coupla inches of thread on each end, duplicate the bends from the all-thread and hope for something at least a little more functional.

Anybody got anything better?


Honda go sideways!
 

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thats about it. the key is to have as few bends as possible. if the lever is steel, you can twist the eye and get a better angle to brake backing plate lever. its just one of those things that sucks. you could try square stock. ive never done that but its gotta be stronger.

jc

jc


aaron, send my wheel.
 

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thats exactly why the Idea of cable brake linkadge has been a reoccurring topic.Even lately.

Im so far behind ,that I think Im in first.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, I went with oil-quenched steel rod, threaded at the ends. Looks very nice and appears to be functional. Of course its 25 degrees outside so I'll have to test it next week.

A friend referred to the flex in the rod as "low tech ABS". Funny.



Honda go sideways!
 

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when I bent the brake rod for my h1 rearsets I tried to use as shallow bends as possible and only have the rod off angle for a short distance. If the problem persists, try welding a small gusset right that the first bend. The shallower the angle the less flex the rod will have, you don't need to be doing right angles to clear stuff. Sometimes two bends spaced far enough apart can help alleivate the rod flex.
 
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