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Brian,
Replacing the clutch is a piece of cake. Drain the oil and pull the right engine cover off. If it still has the Phillips screws, get an impact driver before you waste your time and the screw heads. Take the time to give each screw head a smack with a flat faced punch. That will help break loose any corrosion on the threads and reset buggered up Phillips heads. Now use the proper fitting impact bit and the case screws will come right out. Pull off the kick starter and pull off the cover. The clutch is held together with the 4 10mm head bolts. Remove them and the springs and pull out the plates. I sand the steel plates with 100 grit sand paper on an orbital sander. Clean them off good with brake cleaner and reassemble. Some people like to soak the new fiber plates in engine oil prior to assembly. I don't feel strongly about it one way or the other. You may need a new clutch cover gasket, but unless it is really torn up a light coating of Permatex Form-a-gasket will usually take care of it. Don't use silicone sealant. The part # for EBC clutch plates is 381922 - $62.99 and the springs are 382015 - $9.99 from Dennis Kirk,www.denniskirk.com.

Ken
 

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Bissinger,
If you don't get any lever and have adjusted tthe cable as best as you can, then the problem is in the adjuster in the left cover that Midge posted. I would suspect that the adjuster is turned so far that the triangular bearing piece Patr #10is out of its ramps, or even more likely, the ball part #21 is not there. The PO probably lost it and didn't notice it was missing after reassembly and sold the bike. This is not a clutch plate sticking situation. When that happens you pull the clutch lever and compress the springs nd the clutch stays engaged. In that case, clutch pull feels normal.

So pull the left cover, Check that part 21 is there. then reassemble and adjust the clutch according to the manual.

Ken
 
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