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Discussion Starter #1
Since my bike's ignition issue arose during Summit Point and many people on this forum had hands in helping identify the problem...I am reposting on this thread. Any suggestions?


.... Many of you know the problem I had at Summit Point, I won't explain how I got there. Anyway, I run a Bore Tech race ignition (FS-10) with Dyna coils.
http://www.bore-tech.com/. Don't worry about the picture, they also make them for the CB.

As you can see by the picture, the bore-tech runs a plate off of the cam shaft in lieu of the advancing mechnism on the stock points system. The magnets trigger the pickup plate, which sends the signal to the box, which advances the timing and sends the signal to the coils to fire. The new black box is mounted, and works. I have real nice static spark at the plugs when I click on the ignition/power. So, this means the coils, plug wires and plugs are good- correct?

However, when I turn over the engine, i have no spark at the plugs. (both of them). And yes, I still have the power switch on (who do you think I am, Alex?)

The wires from the pickup plate to the box are fine and the wires from the box to the coils are good..., no shorts. So what could it be? Could the pickup plate or the spinning plate on the cam shaft be bad? Any ideas. I would hate to order a $200 plate and pickup if I don't have to. I am stumped.

Pete
 

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I used to run a similar dyna setup. Problem can be caused by the spinning parts contacting the non-spining parts and rubbing them till they die or over heat. Can also be caused by improper spacing between magnets and pickups. Can also be caused on some dyna's by leaving the ignition on while the bike is not running. I've also thrown magnets out of the rotor before.
JohnnyB
 

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I used to run a similar dyna setup. Problem can be caused by the spinning parts contacting the non-spining parts and rubbing them till they die or over heat. Can also be caused by improper spacing between magnets and pickups. Can also be caused on some dyna's by leaving the ignition on while the bike is not running. I've also thrown magnets out of the rotor before.
JohnnyB
 

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Can someone please move this thread to the appropiate section under "Technical". Pete, did you EVEN TRY calling Boretech first????? Gosh, I predict your year to be crumby!

Soto...
 

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Can someone please move this thread to the appropiate section under "Technical". Pete, did you EVEN TRY calling Boretech first????? Gosh, I predict your year to be crumby!

Soto...
 

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Pete
I killed a Pertronix setup by leaving the switch on, rolling the wheel back and forth to admire the bright spark while timing it, and watching the spark diminish until it went away.
I'm real careful to keep the switch off and the battery unplugged when the bikes not running.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Alex, you're a toad. I figured I'd reach out to the forum, since folks are on here by choice, rather than call Bore Tech with a questions that could easily be answered and waste their time, being the considerate person I am.

JB, Do you mean the coils die if you leave the ignition on or the magnets or the non-spinning parts die from overheat on the actual ignition or both? I'll fess up. In my rush to install the ignition system, I wired the hotwire of the ignition into the hotwire leading from the battery to the power/ignition switch, rather then the wire leading from the switch to the coils. Yes, my electrician dad had a hoot when I told him. As a result, the coils were not getting power with the switch was off (Alex, this is a good thing since the coils were not overheating); however, the bore tech system was always getting power, even when the ignition was off. I thought this just fried the module, but it sounds like it can also fry the dio-board. My stupidity should be a testimony to the Bore Tech ignition, it was left on for at least a day or so and still ran well for a morning before it finally gave out.

Oh well, at least my stupied mistake only costs me money...too bad I ain't made of it.

Thanks for the help. I will accept my ribbing with humility at VC.
 

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Pete,
If the rotor rubs against the pickups on the plate while the bike is running it can destroy the little solid state pickups. This is caused by improper alignment between the rotor and the plate...not very common if the parts are made right.

On some dyna's, if the ignition stops where a magnet is adjacent to the pickup ( thereby in the "triggered" position) it will burn out something...not sure what component, the black box I think.

As for your mistaken hookup...I have no idea what that might have done...doesn't sound healthy though.

As for good spark when you click on the ignition power....there are a few wiring scenarios that could still get you spark that way and still not have a system that works while running.

Are there any instructions included with this system :)
JohnnyB
 

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Discussion Starter #12
JB - yeah there are instructions. I just wired it to the hot wire incorrectly. A mistake I should not have done. The pickup plate does not touch and is set to the tolerance that Bore tech guys told be it should be at when I first purchased it (0.100 inches). I think I'll just have to pick up a new unit. Again, costly mistake, especially after I just purchased Mikuni VM38 carbs for my BMW.
 

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On a dyno you can see the difference between ANY cam driven ignition and a crank driven ignition such as a PVL. Not necessarily in total hp output, but in the curve getting erratic at high rpms.
JohnnyB
 

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Discussion Starter #15
quote:Originally posted by craig641

PVL baby. Never fails.

Craig
I'd figure out a way to screw up the PVL, and at $600+ a pop, I can't afford those kinds of mistakes. :). TT and Alex have not had any problems with their Bore Techs. So, in this case, it is the person and not the ignition unit.
 

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yeah guys,

i know the boretech isn't the ideal solution....reads off the cam, still needs a battery, black box, etc. i was in a pinch for time and cash and my PVL partner left the country when i was in the midst of my wet points nightmare (which may have turned out to be a bent valve and floating valve seat) so i did the cheap and easy boretech ignition and it's been kinda problem free for a little over three years now. i'm sure it could get sloppy at high rpms, but i can't complain for the price. i'm sure the PVL is in my future but i'm in no hurry. and i think the rest of the wanks have gone with it for budget reasons too....it's just too bad pete likes to toast 'em and now needs a second.

-tt
 

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black boxes scare me. im sure its a great ignition for the price especially. not everyone can afford a pvl and if the rotor hits the pickups, its like a hand grenade going off int here. that gets expensive fast. they are finicky to set up, and it has to be done right. but i have had no problems with mine since i set it up. its been great. i still cant figure out where that oil is coming from though.


jc
 
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