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Hello I have a 1979 cx500. I tore it down to the bare frame and rebuilt it. and everything works as it should and the only engine modifications I did where pod filters and mufflers. But When the bike is cold it runs rough. it Boggs when you pull the throttle and it does not run smoothly. After 5 to 10 minutes of warming up it runs fine. What is the issue here?Do I need to change the jets? Thanks
 

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Carburetor jetting does not change when the engine is cold to warm, valves do change from cold to warm, that's what the valve clearances are for it's to accommodate expansion from heat. That's why I would question the valves before the carb jetting. Pod filters directly on CV carburetors? I seriously doubt it is operating at peak efficiency. Did you notice the shape of the rubber hose that connects to the carburetors and goes to the air filter starts out small and slowly gets bigger and bigger. That shape is called a velocity stack and without it you will always be wasting fuel trying to chase away performance issues. Fact is, you'd be better off keeping that rubber hose that goes from 2 carbs into one big throat and stick one big pod filter on it.
 

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Carburetor jetting does not change when the engine is cold to warm, valves do change from cold to warm, that's what the valve clearances are for it's to accommodate expansion from heat. That's why I would question the valves before the carb jetting. Pod filters directly on CV carburetors? I seriously doubt it is operating at peak efficiency. Did you notice the shape of the rubber hose that connects to the carburetors and goes to the air filter starts out small and slowly gets bigger and bigger. That shape is called a velocity stack and without it you will always be wasting fuel trying to chase away performance issues. Fact is, you'd be better off keeping that rubber hose that goes from 2 carbs into one big throat and stick one big pod filter on it.
Ok I will consider that but before I changed anything and everything was stock the engine ran fine. With knowing that could it still be the valves?
 

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Honda valves need adjusting after a while, first symptom is usually poor starting if your bike is kick start. (not even a particularly difficult task on your longitudinal V engine)
If the bike was stock and ran fine, you should have made changes one at a time to know if any changes are going to mess things up, if you need to dump more fuel into it now then before, you didn't improve performance you degraded it. Engine performance goes hand in hand with fuel efficiency when the engine is fitted with vacuum controlled carburetors. Vacuum carburetors came about to improve fuel efficiency, it's what they are designed to do. They remove the riders ability to ham fist the throttle and waste fuel.
 

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Honda valves need adjusting after a while, first symptom is usually poor starting if your bike is kick start. (not even a particularly difficult task on your longitudinal V engine)
If the bike was stock and ran fine, you should have made changes one at a time to know if any changes are going to mess things up, if you need to dump more fuel into it now then before, you didn't improve performance you degraded it. Engine performance goes hand in hand with fuel efficiency when the engine is fitted with vacuum controlled carburetors. Vacuum carburetors came about to improve fuel efficiency, it's what they are designed to do. They remove the riders ability to ham fist the throttle and waste fuel.
Just a thought. You do kind of change the induction and exhaust volumes when one changes the air filters and mufflers. Where in the power range and in the temp range relate to how much those changes, change the A/F ratio and where. When the era of super bikes really got going racers often removed the air boxes and added those pod filters. Many times that made the jetting different between carbs with the outside ones being different than the inner ones (air boxes tend to keep the air volume more equal) with companies even supplying jet kits that help you rejet depending on those changes you made.
Cheers
 

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It's a water cooled V-twin engine Rich and when the era of superbikes really got going the racers that added cheap pod filters directly onto a bank of CV carburetors were not the winners, the winners ran velocity stacks with air filters over them. The carburetor fuel circuit dedicated to cold starting is called a 'choke' even though it doesn't actually choke anything on a CV carburetor, the 'choke' is a fuel enrichment circuit that bypasses the normal operating main fuel jet. ... you don't adjust a main jet size to accommodate cold starting you choke it to get the engine up to operating temperature then adjust the main jet for normal operating condition.

Turbulence is what you are trying to avoid and a laminar flow through the air intake is what you really want, it's turbulence in the air flow that hampers the carburetors ability to draw as much air into the combustion chamber as possible and efficiently atomize a mist of fuel into that oxygen rich air stream. Turbulence means less smooth controlled flow of air across the carburetors venturi and turbulence at that point results in poor atomization of the air/fuel mix and That is why people are pounding more raw fuel into the carburetor in an attempt to fix the fuelling problem they created.

If one could just stick a cheap pod filter on the mouth of a carb and call that a job well done, all of the manufacturers would have been selling bikes that way over the past century and the term airbox would have never existed. If you remove the velocity stack, cone shaped air intake from any engine and stick a cheap pod filter right on the open mouth of the CV carburetor, you have introduced an air turbulence inside the working part of that carburetor that is guaranteed to degrade the engines performance potential.
 

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It's a water cooled V-twin engine Rich and when the era of superbikes really got going the racers that added cheap pod filters directly onto a bank of CV carburetors were not the winners, the winners ran velocity stacks with air filters over them. The carburetor fuel circuit dedicated to cold starting is called a 'choke' even though it doesn't actually choke anything on a CV carburetor, the 'choke' is a fuel enrichment circuit that bypasses the normal operating main fuel jet. ... you don't adjust a main jet size to accommodate cold starting you choke it to get the engine up to operating temperature then adjust the main jet for normal operating condition.

Turbulence is what you are trying to avoid and a laminar flow through the air intake is what you really want, it's turbulence in the air flow that hampers the carburetors ability to draw as much air into the combustion chamber as possible and efficiently atomize a mist of fuel into that oxygen rich air stream. Turbulence means less smooth controlled flow of air across the carburetors venturi and turbulence at that point results in poor atomization of the air/fuel mix and That is why people are pounding more raw fuel into the carburetor in an attempt to fix the fuelling problem they created.

If one could just stick a cheap pod filter on the mouth of a carb and call that a job well done, all of the manufacturers would have been selling bikes that way over the past century and the term airbox would have never existed. If you remove the velocity stack, cone shaped air intake from any engine and stick a cheap pod filter right on the open mouth of the CV carburetor, you have introduced an air turbulence inside the working part of that carburetor that is guaranteed to degrade the engines performance potential.
TR,
Thanks for the insight on CV carbs. Not something I have spent much time messing with. I totally agree that it sounds as if the valves need attention. Still think that something in the A/F circuit is also fouled up in that it ran fine both when cold and warmed up before it came apart (I trust the engine was just popped out and back in) and now not so much and with this sort of thing I hold on to KISS. Now I'm not saying the valves don't need a fiddle but still think it's more than that. Sorry but Cheap pod filters and "Cheap Sun Glasses" belong in the '70's

Cheers
 

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Valves may or may not need checking. It's a good idea to check valve clearances as aroutine matter of maintenance, but your issue is that it ran fine with stock airbox and now doesn't with pods, so it's reasonable to assume that change is what caused the issue.

TR is correct that usually bikes have a velocity stack designed into the inlet to airbox connection, but the airbox is more than just a box. It's also a plenum i.e. it's a large volume of relatively still air that acts to smooth airflow as well as reducing intake noise.

Pods are an issue on many bikes because they either don't do much of a job of filtering out dirt or they offer too much air flow resistance or both. In addition, they often cover up the port that allows air to move in and out of the upper part of the carb and that hinders the slide moving as it should.

The simple solution is to fit the stock inlet system again or try the stock intake connectors with a large capacity air filter around it.
 

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Have you pulled your spark plugs and read them? Sounds like a lean condition to me.
Have you set your idle mixture? Can your idle mixture be leaned and enriched enough to get rev drops at either end?
Obviously valves need to be in spec and you should check them, but if it ran well before you changed to pods and different mufflers the problem more likely lies there.
Lots of people will tell you CV carbs won't work with pods and to some extent this is true, often from the flanges blocking air channels. I have had success with using the six inch long foam unifilter pods, I think in part because the long internal diameter works like a velocity stack, and I have used shorter pods on a runner of an inch and a half to two inches-looks fine on a multi or a single, might look a bit poo on a CX.
 
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