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Keep us informed bro, I do a lot of that kind of stuff....always looking for something easier or better. I have one cabinet with walnut right now....thinking of buying another cabinet for glass....I get tired of swapping the media.
JohnnyB
 

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remember rosko, soda blasting is good for paint removal of clean metal, it does not remove corrosion like a good old fashoned sand blasting will. The upside it is does not heat the metal and the surface is most of the way preped for painting. The best thing I can think of is honda plastic parts - sand eats them like crazy.

That being said I have tons of stuff you can soda blast, a stack of sidecovers alone.

If you have heavy rusted stuff come over to my place and blast it with aluminum oxide or walnut shells. Between the two of us we should have the whole place covered.

Oh and build the box big enough so I can get car parts in, Please.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It'll be a blast-room, and you'll have to rock full coveralls and hood style resporator, otherwise the soda would REALLY dry you out.

I got it mostly to do engine cases, cylinders, carbs, etc.

Mostly for removing baked on oil and varnished fuel but, with more abrasive soda it will remove paint. Any soda will remove and neutralize rust. Best part is no masking, no lost paticles in your engine and water clean-up. I'll post pics once I'm set-up.




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Not that I know a lot about it but isn't there either a health concern for soda blasting (a respirator is needed to prevent lung damage) or a risk of explosion or flash fire from the dust in the air? Then again I guess you could say the same thing about two part auto paint....

Hey Geeto - what would work better on a T500 crankcase? Walnut shells or soda blasting??? I need to get the race bike case cleaned up as my crank is at the rebuilder's now......

Jim

EDIT - Or I could read Rosko's post a little better and see that he's got the coveralls/respirator/air handling thing covered already....



Edited by - diamondj on Feb 20 2007 7:21:27 PM

Edited by - diamondj on Feb 20 2007 9:49:03 PM
 

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quote:
Not that I know a lot about it but isn't there either a health concern for soda blasting (a respirator is needed to prevent lung damage) or a risk of explosion or flash fire from the dust in the air? Then again I guess you could say the same thing about two part auto paint....

Hey Geeto - what would work better on a T500 crankcase? Walnut shells or soda blasting??? I need to get the race bike case cleaned up as my crank is at the rebuilder's now......

Jim

EDIT - Or I could read Rosko's post a little better and see that he's got the coveralls/repirator/air handling thing covered already....



Edited by - diamondj on Feb 20 2007 7:21:27 PM
I guess you science teacher never showed you how to make a flour bomb jim. Any particulate matter suspended in the air is suceptible to explosion when compressed in a container. All it takes is a flash flame and boom!. when I was a kid we blew up a lot of paint cans and garbage cans with sacks of flour. It doesn't matter the material (which is why most sandblasting cabinets have vents) but soda does touch off a little easier than say aluminum oxide (although aluminum oxide has a hotter flame front). As for a health concern, yeah they all do. I could not tell you the crap I used to cough up back when the corvette shop had me wroking the sandbalster for 8 hours a day for days on end.

Personally, I know you jim and soda is what you want. shells (from here out I am just going to call it sand) will give you a little bit of a rough texture (like matte aluminum) that you will have to take one step further to make look like normal aluminum. Soda will give you a nice natural metal finish that is smooth to the touch and has a light sheen. If you are painting the cases then sand, if you want to just clear the aluminum then soda.

call me jim I'm sure we can get this taken care of for ya.
 

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any particulate in the air is basically a fuel. think of it like a giant engine cyl. its just a matter of what temp it will combust at. wood dust, paint vapor, even paper dust will explode. ive seen dust extractor fires that will burn like a jet engine. ross told me about a paper explosion where he used to work (hes a print press machinist) that destroyed a hopper.

its really important to make sure if youre using plastics, its grounded. the shock you can get can be enough to kill you if there is enough of a static build up. i saw a guy get thrown to the ground from getting near his pvc pipe wood dust extractor duct. it numbed one side of his body and it looked like a lightening bolt. it could have started a fire. just a heads up. i personally have never had a problem, even with the mishmash setup i have had going. i mean, its pretty safe but there are people who wouldn't get near it for this or that reason.

also, if you need ventilation or reclaiming equip, this is where i went.

oneida-air.com

oneida shit is the bomb.

and airhand.com

jc
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My father has an old collapseable paint booth he made in the 80's with a filtration system, basically a plywood room, I figured I'd wrap it in plastic and use it like that. Hadn't even considered the static, that shit would pack a serious punch. Thanks to your input, I have reconsidered the whole thing. Since the media washes away with water doing it outdoors is no problem, just rinse it away. You wouldn't want to do it near your lawn... but luckily my workshop is tucked away into the industrial wasteland, already considered a superfund site. Hooray for the largest oilspill in north america! Anyway, I think I'll do some tests outdoors first. If it turns out to be something I do a lot of I can frame out a small room and run a filtration system.

Joe, got any festool yet?



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