I was just having this conversation with some folks on the MSN CB450 site (which, by the way, is an excellent gathering place of old 450 buffs). Here's what I've got for you:
It didn't work on my CB450 despite the fact that, technically, it ought to. Here's the theory: if it has fixed magnets, it'll work. If the magnets are electromagnets (coils spinning within coils), it won't. Basically, a battery eliminator is a capacitor that acts as a very short-term battery.
In practice, my 450 just wouldn't start with a battery eliminator - just couldn't get enough charge from the kick to make it happen.
However, here's a funny tale. I've wired out the key switch on my bike... I've got a nicely hidden SPDT switch that takes the battery out of the loop, making it just about impossible to start my bike without the key. Don't ask me why I thought this was a good idea. I'm pretty sure alcohol was involved. Point is, one day I kick it on and go riding. The thing runs like shit, but it runs. I got several miles down the road before I realized my battery was still switched off - so the bike had actually been running with no battery at all. Now, why it would do that but wouldn't run with a battery eliminator inline is a mystery to me... one of these days I'll bond with my voltmeter and figure that one out.
I can say I was just kidding around ,your a newbie only 13 posts ..I shouldnt be taking pot shots..this board is full of talent believe me . Calm down and be cool ! youll get all the help you need and more.But you havent been here long enough to know every ones twisted humor....so, sorry if you got all offended.
When I was fooling around with my 360 I kicked it over while the battery was out and noticed that the neutral light glowed. That's how I found out it would work without a battery. I stripped out all the extra wires, who needs lights/charging on a race bike, and it runs fine and is easy to start. Don't know if this works on any other Hondas. A guy named Hoyt McKagan knew how to rewire Hondas to run batteryless but he died.
lil bull i may be new to this forum, but how do you know that im not one of the talented ones. or i could be noob that knows nothing.my point is that im a GM certifed tech and work for a high end cadillac
dealer working on complex electrical and smog issues.cafe racers are my hobbie and i do it for fun.i also am helping a friend that i just met 3 days ago rewire his complete cafe.cb 750. so please if you not going to help then dont post. to everyone else thanks for the input it helped
Anyway, Personally on a cb750 I don't think you can run without a battery for several reasons:
1) Charging begins at 2000 rpms. 2K is the break even point on the alternator, anything below that and the bike is loosing energy. Even with the proper capacitor with the correct resistance I think you are still fighting a loosing battle.
2) Despite having one of the best kickstarts for the time, you are still not spinning the motor fast enough to get her to go. Ever kick a cb750 with a totally flat battery? it will not start.
3) CB750s are wasted spark ignitions. The plug is firing every revolution wasting what little stored electricity you have. One would think because you have four cylinders you have a twice a better chance of it starting but not if every plug is firing on the up and down stroke. See two previous points as to how this really is a waste.
You can try it and good luck if you get it to work (because reliability will always be an issue). I just think it is better to get the smallest sealed battery you can and shitcan your starter.
And the correct answer is no. A battery eliminator will not work... As Xander450 pointed out. All of the SOHC honda 4s use a battery excited alternator. That means unless there is a current running through the electromagnets, it will not generate any current no matter how fast you spin it.
Now, If you do not plan on using an electric starter then you can use a smaller battery than stock, however, as Geeto67 correctly pointed out, the break even point on those charging system is about 2000RPM, depending on the load you are putting on it with lights and such. No lights and no accessories and a charging system in top notch shape, maybe 1700 RPM. 100w halogen headlight, running lights, handwarmers and a stereo, good luck keeping a battery charged.
This is not the best charging system ever invented, but you can learn to live with it and after it trains you, you won't even notice the habits you have formed.
i have a 74 CL125. ran for the longest time with a shot/dead battery. started and ran fine. have another that im doing a cafe build on and i just bought a Bat-Pac. thought that it should work. i know its late to ask but what do you think?
There is the right way, the wrong way and the british way to do anything!
I have a copy of Hoyt's articles, I sent them to rob to post on the USCRA site. I tried to start a thread on Hoyt's ETM last year, no one seemed to be interested in a way to turn the stock set-up into a battery free race ignition.
since we are on the topic of battery elimination I have a question:
What is a total loss ignition? I mean what does the term refer to?
For years I was using "total loss ignition" to describe batteryless ignitions under the assumption that the "total loss" refered to the fact that no charge is retained. I also used it on occasion to refer to drag bikes that ran a battery but no charging system.
A while back a friend of mine was absolutley convinced that total loss ignition meant a bike with no charging system whatsoever and only that.
so who is right?
Furthermore, I am always confused by the street guys who want to run without batteries. To me this cuts the usefulness of your bike in half, if you get caught in traffic you are phucked, if you go on a long trip at night you are phucked, yet there are people who think it is so hardcore to run without a battery on the street.