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Discussion Starter #1
Happy Memorial Day (tomorrow). Many thanks to those who serve. I'm very much anti war but pro soldier. I gotta image those guys hate the war(s) more the me. Anyway...

Thanks to hack for the guidance, I whipped up this 2-1 stainless exhaust. There is a few things I would have done differently, but it isn't bad.

1.5" primaries into 2" merge collector, then to a reverse cone megaphone. To me, the megaphone outlet looks huge, but Burns Stainless swore it was what I needed. God I hope so.

The setup:



Exhaust port side



Purging with PayDough. Blue tape is much cleaner.



Using tape. At this point, my PVC back-purge tube melted. That was fun to clean out.



A fusion weld with back-purge.



Slip jointed and fitted up. Little did I know this was a mistake.



Tried it on. You can't see it in the picture, but the tubes were proper fucked under the bike.



Springs



The start of the collector



Tacked



Purged and welded



Finished











I love this pic. It makes the bike look really mean. One mistake I made was that I welded a supoort to the megaphone, but forgot to back--purge. It really pisses me off. I think I can get a die grinder in there to smooth out the sugar, but still; I should have known better.



Thanks for following along. Let me know what you think.

--Chris
 

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assuming that is exactly where the muffler needs to be.....

I think I'd cut the collector

finish it and the mufflers mating faces to angle the collector upwards

cut the 90 out

reface it to push it's useful at least another ten (twenty more is easy enough since that only means five off each face) degree and you don't need nearly as much of it as you've used in the down section

and do all these things in the name of tucking the bottom of the pipes as close to the bike as possible and blend that 90 in so it looks like you were more in control

you no longer have to weld round tubing cut squarely so it only fits to round

you can weld ovals too..... even weld oval'd section so it fits up to round section if you get lazy and don't want to face both sides of the joint



very nice work from what I see

I'm zero fan of the one sided sprung slip joints

and we disagree on mounts.... that tangent'd skinny tab with such a tiny anchor point doesn't look durable to me

I'd mount that whole system so solid it thought it was the bike

really amazing how fast you stepped up with the tig

are you feeling like it is solid and well made?

that tail and license plate bracket does not look like it will live long

it needs to be closer to the shock and also to have two more anchor points

like the inside of the shock/frame next to the sole tab you currently have

and then one from inside of the shock/frame down to the bottom of the plate

it can be larger at the top and taper down as it descends
 

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assuming that is exactly where the muffler needs to be.....

I think I'd cut the collector

finish it and the mufflers mating faces to angle the collector upwards

cut the 90 out

reface it to push it's useful at least another ten (twenty more is easy enough since that only means five off each face) degree and you don't need nearly as much of it as you've used in the down section

and do all these things in the name of tucking the bottom of the pipes as close to the bike as possible and blend that 90 in so it looks like you were more in control

you no longer have to weld round tubing cut squarely so it only fits to round

you can weld ovals too..... even weld oval'd section so it fits up to round section if you get lazy and don't want to face both sides of the joint



very nice work from what I see

I'm zero fan of the one sided sprung slip joints

and we disagree on mounts.... that tangent'd skinny tab with such a tiny anchor point doesn't look durable to me

I'd mount that whole system so solid it thought it was the bike

really amazing how fast you stepped up with the tig

are you feeling like it is solid and well made?

that tail and license plate bracket does not look like it will live long

it needs to be closer to the shock and also to have two more anchor points

like the inside of the shock/frame next to the sole tab you currently have

and then one from inside of the shock/frame down to the bottom of the plate

it can be larger at the top and taper down as it descends
 

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that brake linkage rod bothers me

too skinny, I'm assuming it is stainless, to not have some gussets on both sides of the bends

and the bend looks too close to the shock

can you put all your weight on it without it flexing? half your weight?

have you made sure nothing fouls from full jounce to rebound?


one of the down pipes should be made solid all the way to the muffler

you only need one slip joint, I'd slit one of those swedged ends, weld a threaded bung on one side of the slit and a counter bored bung on the other

that would be my clamp

it would be underneath the bike and oriented so it cost zero ground clearance while being easy to get to with your socket and ratchet

really, nice execution and I wish I was there to give you a hand with the lines

you have all the bends you need to make it fit up and look really nice

and doing so would gain you some very valuable ground clearance


I will ask you this, why such a big head pipe? aesthetics?

and that collector is much better than the other one




how I do it is to emulate the desired pipe run on it's centerline with heavy fill rod

that is, bend the fill rod to go where you want the pipe to run and that be your template

then figure out what I have to cut and where to make it happen

you can do better but I know very well what it is like to have them done and choosing to live with "almost" and thinking.....

one of these days I am going to cut that section and and make it perfect
 

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that brake linkage rod bothers me

too skinny, I'm assuming it is stainless, to not have some gussets on both sides of the bends

and the bend looks too close to the shock

can you put all your weight on it without it flexing? half your weight?

have you made sure nothing fouls from full jounce to rebound?


one of the down pipes should be made solid all the way to the muffler

you only need one slip joint, I'd slit one of those swedged ends, weld a threaded bung on one side of the slit and a counter bored bung on the other

that would be my clamp

it would be underneath the bike and oriented so it cost zero ground clearance while being easy to get to with your socket and ratchet

really, nice execution and I wish I was there to give you a hand with the lines

you have all the bends you need to make it fit up and look really nice

and doing so would gain you some very valuable ground clearance


I will ask you this, why such a big head pipe? aesthetics?

and that collector is much better than the other one




how I do it is to emulate the desired pipe run on it's centerline with heavy fill rod

that is, bend the fill rod to go where you want the pipe to run and that be your template

then figure out what I have to cut and where to make it happen

you can do better but I know very well what it is like to have them done and choosing to live with "almost" and thinking.....

one of these days I am going to cut that section and and make it perfect
 

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I chose to edit this post. It was originally more reactionary, somewhat angry, and not very concise.
Memorial Day is for the honoring of those that died serving America. I think it's inapropriate and disrespectful to make anti-war comments in the same few sentences that one says "happy Memorial Day", and "thanks to those that served". Not that there's anything wrong with opposing a war or voicing one's opinion about it. But the time and place for it is not while honoring our war dead. I'm sure that many would disagree with me, though. Most of them probably haven't served.
-Eli
Sgt./USMC
 

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I chose to edit this post. It was originally more reactionary, somewhat angry, and not very concise.
Memorial Day is for the honoring of those that died serving America. I think it's inapropriate and disrespectful to make anti-war comments in the same few sentences that one says "happy Memorial Day", and "thanks to those that served". Not that there's anything wrong with opposing a war or voicing one's opinion about it. But the time and place for it is not while honoring our war dead. I'm sure that many would disagree with me, though. Most of them probably haven't served.
-Eli
Sgt./USMC
 

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whoa......take it easy there....

nice pipe. that fucker is going to be loud!

id go the opposite direction from hack. rubber isolators. mcmeaster sells em. if you rigid mount it, theres a good chance youll get some cracks. leave the front the way it is, and use an isolator at the back. i have no problem with the single springs. you can always safety wire the loops together.
 

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whoa......take it easy there....

nice pipe. that fucker is going to be loud!

id go the opposite direction from hack. rubber isolators. mcmeaster sells em. if you rigid mount it, theres a good chance youll get some cracks. leave the front the way it is, and use an isolator at the back. i have no problem with the single springs. you can always safety wire the loops together.
 

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they are much more likely to break if allowed to swing from the head

they aren't rubber mounted to the ports

quite rigid there and should be from one end to the other
 

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they are much more likely to break if allowed to swing from the head

they aren't rubber mounted to the ports

quite rigid there and should be from one end to the other
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Eli:

Yep, you're right. i stand correct. Thanks for helping our country out.

Tex:

It does look like ground clearence is effected, but in reality, I don't think it is. I probably won't hop any curves or anything, so it should be fine. I had a similar 2-1 setup under there last summer and didn't have any issues. Hopefully, this works well.

Hack:

Tobe be honest, unless something bad happens, that is what it is. I will weld on two more mounts near the front to tie the exhaust to the motor mounts--one mount per primary. I think that will work well.

I get what you mean about doing a threaded clamp instead of springs. If the springs don't work, that will certainly be plan-B.

I think the system is extremely well made. Each well is perfect--thanks for the help on that. I'm calling you this week to chat about aluminum.

Also, note that the bends that go under the bike in the first few pictures ended up not working out. I had to cut them off and weld new bends on. I honestly think this system will work well.

The one issue it has is where the mega meets the collector. I had my 13-year old hold the mega in place whilst I tacked it. She got it a bit wrong and stupidly, I just capped it off and welded away with out checking. Basically, there is about 3/8" of the collector INSIDE the mega. I don't think it will effect performance, but if you look into the mega, you can see the mistake. Live and learn.

All:

I should say that I hate making 2-1 exhaust. I thought it would be great fun, but it turns out it is a shitload of work. I have a bunch of stainless bends left over. If anyone wants 2-2 high pipes (like on the CL350) contact me. The won't be cheap, but they will look good. Thanks for following along.

--Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Eli:

Yep, you're right. i stand correct. Thanks for helping our country out.

Tex:

It does look like ground clearence is effected, but in reality, I don't think it is. I probably won't hop any curves or anything, so it should be fine. I had a similar 2-1 setup under there last summer and didn't have any issues. Hopefully, this works well.

Hack:

Tobe be honest, unless something bad happens, that is what it is. I will weld on two more mounts near the front to tie the exhaust to the motor mounts--one mount per primary. I think that will work well.

I get what you mean about doing a threaded clamp instead of springs. If the springs don't work, that will certainly be plan-B.

I think the system is extremely well made. Each well is perfect--thanks for the help on that. I'm calling you this week to chat about aluminum.

Also, note that the bends that go under the bike in the first few pictures ended up not working out. I had to cut them off and weld new bends on. I honestly think this system will work well.

The one issue it has is where the mega meets the collector. I had my 13-year old hold the mega in place whilst I tacked it. She got it a bit wrong and stupidly, I just capped it off and welded away with out checking. Basically, there is about 3/8" of the collector INSIDE the mega. I don't think it will effect performance, but if you look into the mega, you can see the mistake. Live and learn.

All:

I should say that I hate making 2-1 exhaust. I thought it would be great fun, but it turns out it is a shitload of work. I have a bunch of stainless bends left over. If anyone wants 2-2 high pipes (like on the CL350) contact me. The won't be cheap, but they will look good. Thanks for following along.

--Chris
 

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the megaphone is going to be really fun to tune

it will require much mid-range lean-ness

and I do think the 1.5 diameter is rather large

I'd simply like to have seen much better flowing lines that are tucked up nice and snug to the bike and it really wouldn't take much to make that happen from where you are. Not trying to be overly critical, you've done very well and I certainly am aware how much work it is to do a set of one off pipes.

I think you'd not hate doing them nearly as much if say..... shorten the 90 on the straight where it goes into the head and terminate down closer in towards the frame

use only enough of the rest of that 90 to bring your pipes down at the same angle as the frame down-tube and/or line which goes with the engine/frame

and then get a bit more crafty with that area where it goes under the bike

you don't have to rework the two spring deals but doing it without them would have been less work.

If it ever works out where you can load up with whatever you have cooking and head this way

holler at me, I'd really like to have been there while you were doing this one and am pretty sure, that together, we could have made three sets in the same amount of time... two for sure

generally, I like to have at least two other non-blind people around when I do pipes to help sight things end and hold stuff

I like to roll everything out of the shop and also turn the lift so I can raise the bike up to eye level

and be able to step back and look at it from ten steps as things progress

btw....... I keep J bends on hand...... and one of them would have made those just fine

I'd like to see the high pipes, I might be interested and I'd also need some dimensions if you have multi-pix of them taken with a readable scale or yard stick of some sort
 

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the megaphone is going to be really fun to tune

it will require much mid-range lean-ness

and I do think the 1.5 diameter is rather large

I'd simply like to have seen much better flowing lines that are tucked up nice and snug to the bike and it really wouldn't take much to make that happen from where you are. Not trying to be overly critical, you've done very well and I certainly am aware how much work it is to do a set of one off pipes.

I think you'd not hate doing them nearly as much if say..... shorten the 90 on the straight where it goes into the head and terminate down closer in towards the frame

use only enough of the rest of that 90 to bring your pipes down at the same angle as the frame down-tube and/or line which goes with the engine/frame

and then get a bit more crafty with that area where it goes under the bike

you don't have to rework the two spring deals but doing it without them would have been less work.

If it ever works out where you can load up with whatever you have cooking and head this way

holler at me, I'd really like to have been there while you were doing this one and am pretty sure, that together, we could have made three sets in the same amount of time... two for sure

generally, I like to have at least two other non-blind people around when I do pipes to help sight things end and hold stuff

I like to roll everything out of the shop and also turn the lift so I can raise the bike up to eye level

and be able to step back and look at it from ten steps as things progress

btw....... I keep J bends on hand...... and one of them would have made those just fine

I'd like to see the high pipes, I might be interested and I'd also need some dimensions if you have multi-pix of them taken with a readable scale or yard stick of some sort
 

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btw....... how many inches from the bottom of the pipes to the ground with the bike stood up straight?

on a rigid with minimal front suspension travel

I find that less than 4.5" results in the bottom of the bike not getting along much with the real world and I am quite sure several of these guys that beat the snot out of there bikes can tell you how much clearance they have without bashing the bottom

high centering a bike can really be a rough proposition
 
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