Stattz is it running yet

hold on ....guys carbs are not the big sink hole ,most people freak out because they are two or three or four carbs.

a bike is simple ,a bike has one carb per cylinder
A cylinder requires air and fuel.

Now stop thinking for a minute. You dont have to figure ANYTHING out ...its ALREADY figured out for you what it needs.

All you have to do is leave them alone.

but when some one starts playing with them they have ussually twisted things out of wack...NOW

There are only two things they did 1 to much or too little air
2 to much or two little fuel

just because you have four carbs, the mind, doesnt have to go crazy!

just think if no one has messed with the linkage all you have to do is unscrew! each air screw back them all the way out

then unscrew each fuel screw all the way out/or all the way in which ever direction shuts down the fuel you want the fuel screw screwed in so the engine has no fuel then count 3 turns to open the screw to give it about 3 turns of fuel each carb same way one after the other)

Stattz in your case after you do this take out the spark plug keep them in order and see which one is wet or fuel fouled or dry as a bone. they may all be dry now if you havent tried to start the bike in a few days


spin engine to get loaded fuel cylinder dry.

Stattz check points make sure they are gaped and havent moved or closed
a too small a gap will give very weak spark.a too large agap will do the same< get them about 015 .and clean with emery board or fine sand paper.get them shiny.

only after this is done ! turn all screws in three full turns (MAKE SURE THEY HAVE TOUCHED THE PAD OF METAL THEY MAKE CONTACT WITH BEFORE COUNTING)

When you have multiple carbs its best to take tank off so you have a clear veiw of what your doing(this is important) as its important to watch them make contact then to start counting.

rest tank on bike dont mount as it will come off again for adjustment .

make sure points are clean and gaped make sure plugs are clean and dry put plugs and points cover, back on bike .

try starting it should start and run fast walla it starts now you have to fine tune unscrew air screws back them out 1 1/2 turns each

start up again see if it seems to smoke or smell fuel means too much fuel unscrew fuel screws 1 1/2 turns.

so you have the idea that the carbs DO NOT run differrent from each other they are all linked to each other and require the same amount of fuel and air.All four carbs need screws turned in or out exact same amount (period)

When you twist the throttle it opens all carbs 2 or 3 or 4 carbs all open at same time, the engine just grabs what it needs when it needsit

again nothing for you to think about its engineered in for you!

just besure to turn them ALL in the same amount and ALL out the same amount

again do not miss the two or three steps checking points even if you checked them before tuning carbs, or if you never looked in there you NEED TO DO Before continuing, IT could be affecting its running and can stop it from running ruff or running at all its KEY To check points before EVER LOOKING at carb tuning .PERIOD

be sure to take out and clean PLUGS and too spin engine with out plugs in it to clear cylinder of unburnt fuel build up (get it dry again)

then adjust all screws evenly...all screws EVENLY .DO NOT THINK THEY WORK SEPARATE FROM EACH OTHER THEY ARE LINKED TO EACH OTHER and need all screws to be evenly adjusted.

you cannot turn one screw more then another BESURE OF THIS

do them all the same all the time and you will have a smooth running bike.

remember its not the carbs ..its ussually weak ignition(closed or opened point gap or valve wear or sticking that will cause ruff running a few tanks with mystry oil will help sticking valves or a adjustment or a gap check to be sure they are not to loose or too tight is also where you look for a ruff running engine.

Carbs are last to look at BUT I TELL YOU EVERY ONE WILL SCREW around with them FIRST dont be one of these peolpe its not the carbs ussually they dont go out of tune and I stand by that statement.

They ussually always are out of tune because some one monkeyed with them instead of looking at points and valves and spark plugs and ignition FIRST!!

they just take patience to get every thing even once your happy with its running its good to put a dollup of paint on the thread so it doesnt vibrate loose like the factory does thats what that little yellow paint is for.ussually they will rust in postition ...I always free mine get them working and adjusted then lock them with a drop of paint yellow is cool like model paint .keep a laguer yellow just for this from a hobby or model shop hell walmart has it in the toy department.

another detail tip to smoth running is get a oil can with mistry oil and get ever twisting turning part afew drops and work the throtle to get every thing free and lubed its these little details that make a smooth running bike .

like the tinman let it sit out side and it will start to get squeeky rusty and it will hang up or freese up and stick when you dont want it to .OIL IT and make sure all moving parts are free .

Stattz I havent worked on that set up of carb but if you sent them to me Id be happy to look them over and set them up for you .Think about it or call me.
My out line works with all carbs its best to have all at a base setting so by turning them all closed then open each the same amount three turns (THATs on complete 360 twist of screw driver will always get you in the ball park to start.

The linkage,the idea is, you want every thing closed at same time back off or turn in all screws that rest against linkage.
be sure everything is inline and all carbs are doing the same thing(all carbs are closed)then lock down linkage and check the movement . besure they all open same time and close same time.

Again its a matter of getting my face in there and I can look and figure it out.

those are very good pictures but they dont help as Id have to watch things move to see whats going on!
So the best I can do is offer to set them up for you call me if you think that route .Ill look at them and adjust them and send them back .

Dont let the terms balancing and synchronizing throw you its the same exact thing initially as make sure every thing is open and closed at the same time.backing in and out the screw evenly is the first form of "Balancing and synchonizing"

And Stattz it truely sucks to work on carbs with those massive air boxes thank good for Cafinating I cut mine out carefully with a saws-all and thru it in the trash now carb work isnt a kick in the balls every time I want to check things out.....



Edited by - LiLBull on Nov 23 2005 4:38:34 PM

Edited by - LiLBull on Nov 23 2005 4:41:17 PM

See Stattz no worries ,we all learned something....you have learned that air box needs to go by now,Im sure .And we all know to stay clear of those carbs ,when you get them on the bench post the name of them so we dont buy them by mistake on ebay!!!
Im sure they are just fine when you get them up and running.which seems to be the hardest part.but an old honda guy might be the guy to hand them too,or you can take them to the bench and continue like the rest of us with "The school of Hard knocks"degree....we'll be here to help.

Stattz here is a microfish of your carbs

http://www.thriftyrider.com/partsfish/displayfiche.asp

This link seems to time out so go to the home page click on oem parts /Honda/then your bike model/then select 1978 carbs( if you click on carb components you will see every moving part inside your carbs without taking them apart)

Great site for looking up parts you dont know what to call them.I hope it helps ...looking at it I can see what your working on though.

I tried saving the pic but it wouldnt let me.


Edited by - LiLBull on Nov 24 2005 07:58:58 AM

Edited by - LiLBull on Nov 25 2005 08:26:50 AM

Edited by - LiLBull on Nov 25 2005 08:33:21 AM