Stattz is it running yet

3316 Views 22 Replies 5 Participants Last post by LiLBull, Nov 25, 2005

LiLBull

Discussion Starter · Nov 21, 2005

Stattz waiting for an updtae on your new machine ...
George

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All is not well in paradise. Because she was idling around 4000 rpm I thought that she might be getting too much air in the idle mixture. The idle mix screw had no affect so I took off the carb rack and noticed that the valve slides on cylinders 1 & 4 had larger gaps than 2 & 3. So I tried to adjust them using the little screw on the top of the linkage. Error.

Now she won't run at all. The manual says nothing about adjusting the slides, only to be careful to reassemble the right way round. I also noticed that cylinder 2 does not have that adjusting screw. ( I used that slide as a reference and tried to match the others to it. If I adjust one of the slides (say #4) then as 4 reaches bottom the other slides start to rise. What's going on there? I don't know. I think I may need a pro do to this bit for me unless there's something I don't know that could make the difference.

I'm a bit reluctant to open up the carbs completely as they don't match the ones in the manual (wouldn't you know it) and who knows what I might screw up through ignorance.

Stattz

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Stattz

· #10 · Nov 22, 2005

Actually, I am the idiot who messed with the carb linkages.

Where is the fuel screw located. My manual says nothing about a fuel screw (other than the throttle stop screw). And the carbs are not identical to the diagrams, which is a bit confusing.

How should I go about undoing the damage I caused by messing with the linkages while trying to adjust the slide? I used the adjuster screw on the top of the link arms (Is this the "fuel screw"). Can I somehow duplicate the factory settings or will that require balancing?
If I adjust the screw, the slide moves up and down, as do the slides in the other carbs. What's going on there?

I'll check the points, plugs etc. as well, then see what I can do.

Stattz

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Stattz

· #13 · Nov 23, 2005

I posted some pictures of the carbs here

http://home.triad.rr.com/stattz/

This is the first time I've posted pics, so I hope it works!

The screws I messed with are under the top covers.
I'm guessing that the screw between carbs 2 & 3 is the fuel screw, complete with factory yellow paint. The screw located on each the side of each carb must be the air screw, it's in about the same place as in the manual.

How can I return the screws I messed up to stock settings, or should I try to do it a different way, such as balancing the carbs. Can I follow the steps Lil Bull outlined? Closing the (now located?) fuel and air screws, backing them out and away you go: or do they need to be balanced and synchronised?

Stattz

Edited by - stattz on Nov 23 2005 12:44:19 PM

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Stattz

· #15 · Nov 23, 2005

I have a Clymer and a Haynes. I don't doubt the answers are "in the book", It's knowing where to look and having experience with similar systems that make it a bit easier to interpret what the manual is saying. Esp. since some of the photo's do not match what is mounted on my bike.

Stattz

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Stattz

· #20 · Nov 24, 2005

I read the replies onthe SOHC forum. Looks like its time to pull those carbs again. Thanksgiving first. Then we'll see.

Thanks for all the help, it truly is appreciated.

Stattz

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Stattz

· #22 · Nov 25, 2005

If I take out the airbox, what are my options for cleaning the air. I've been thinking about the K & N style 3" pod filters. Seems like they would make carb-work a lot easier.

I just bought a parts microfiche from ebay. I'm going to get it printed up. Cool site. I looked at the 550 and several other carbs from similar sized bikes around at the end of the seventies, but did not see any that looked like mine.

I found a place locally that is reputed to do good work cleaning and polishing engines. What would be a good price to get it done? I was thinking of polishing the covers and fins and painting the rest the original factory silver.

Stattz

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