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Discussion Starter #1
I know it would be for racing etc, But what about on just a street bike? totally necessary?

with my limited experience, it would seem, at the angle you are positioned, with clipons, rearsets etc. your puttin alot of pressure on the bars and would seem easier to lose control over, a conventional sitting bike, but would like an "experts" opinion :D..

Also, if i did decide to go with one, im sure i can get one of the $50 ebay newer bike (gsxr) etc dampers to work instead of the 100+ ones online correct?
 

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Unnecessary for any of these old bikes, honestly, assuming you are running stock or close to stock geometry, aren't running absurdly different sized tires front and rear, and/or aren't getting the front wheel off teh ground a lot in your 2nd to 3rd gear, or 3rd to 4th gear.

These old bike, no, you don't need one.
 

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I tend to run one on everything, but mlinder is right in that they probably don't need it unless you have changed the geometry a lot. I did feel the need to put one on my Ascot to quell the handlebar waggle at freeway speed after I put longer shocks on along with a change from a 19 to 17 inch front wheel. 5 try to keep a few GSXR steering dampers on hand and just stick them on everything. I won't pay more than $15 plus shipping from e-bay. The R1 damper works, too. I guess I better get a couple more since the one on the Ascot was my last.

Ken
 

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Which CB? And what had you done to it?
 

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Weird, I got no sister. Sure it aint yours?

Sounds like other issues. :)
 

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I have that effect on a lot of people.

Back to the point, is your 360 more or less stock?
 

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Well, using a steering damper to 'fix' your shot bearings doesn't make much sense, does it?

It didn't fix your wobble, it only hid it from you...
 

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Your less likely to need a steering damper with clip-on bars.
High bars let the front 'go light' as you go faster and that leads to instability.
Steering damper helps prevent you over correcting weave and getting out of control (although some bikes are known to have weave at various speeds.
Tests in late 70's showed most bikes had slight wobble around 35~45mph, hands off.
Just holding bars was enough to damp steering (I think it was TRRL in Britain, maybe Tony Foal was involved)

PJ
 

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quote:Originally posted by mlinder

Well, using a steering damper to 'fix' your shot bearings doesn't make much sense, does it?

It didn't fix your wobble, it only hid it from you...
I know it needs a fixin.:D
 

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If the bike has regular ball bearings in the steering head, I'd highly recommend replacing them with conical bearing races. They usually go for around 40 dollars. I'd further recommend the All-Ball brand. Check out z1-enterprise.com - they should have these bearings. As a side note - before you spend all kinds of money building a 100+hp engine, spend your money on suspension, bearings, wheels and such first. If the bike don't handle well now adding more power will make it handle even worst.

Most folks will add a 4 into 1 pipe to get a little more hp and to lighten up the bike a bit. Anything to do to lighten up the bike is good for handling and performance. (not saying you are but if your overweight - loose some lb's). Check in the the All-Ball bearings - that will help make your bike handle much better.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
im only 150ish pounds...Not sure yet if i wanna replace the bearings up front... I already bought new rear shocks, reconditioned the front, not doin anything to the engine except re ring, hone, and new gaskets/seals.

new rims/spokes on the way aswell.
 

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new bearings: about 12 bucks
Time: about 20 minutes
 
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