quote:Originally posted by ejand22
I don't really feel like paying $200 for a new 18" rim...
Unfortunately, that's usually the best way to get a rim that will work with out any problems. When you get a new rim, you will usually be asked what bike/hub it will be mounted to so you can get the correct spoke hole angles.
When buying a used rim, you usually dont know what it came off of and if you do know what it came off of, there is no way to be 100% sure it will work for your application (unless it is off the same bike you are putting it on).
When the spoke holes are drilled in the rim at the factory, they are drilled to match a specific hub width and diameter. The angles that the holes are at will be at will be different for a large drum brake hub than they will be at for a smaller disc brake hub. Some disc brake hubs are larger than most others (ie= GL 1000 rear, and some BMW), so you cant always go just by the "disc' or "drum' hub drilling.
Some British bikes have conical hubs(drum brake) where one side of the hub is larger than the other side is (it would have 1 side close to the disc brake size hub and the other side close to a drum brake hub size- kinda like some older Japanese dirt bike front brakes-RT1MX).
Here's a set of aluminum shouldered rims laced to CB 750 K hubs. Both rims were drilled for a smaller disc brake hub. The front works fine and the spokes line up like they should, but the rear spokes are not at the proper angle (they are cocked where the spoke and nipple meet)and would be a weak link in the wheel. If used like this the spokes would be likely to break where the spoke and nipple meet because of the cocked connection (it doesnt have a straight pull like a spoke/nipple should). This rear wheel wasnt used in this configuration.
Spending the cash and getting a new rim that will work may be cheaper in the long run than buying a bunch of used rims that wont work.
DG