I just did that same thing on my brother's cb360. I just got a good phillips head screwdriver and a hammer, nice light taps on the end of the screwdriver while applying as much torque as I could with my free hand. Probably not the best way to do it but I didn't strip any heads and I got em all loose. Just my two cents.
If they are rusty to begin with just carefully drill them out. Not sure what the thread size would be, but us a bit that is just a shde bigger. Drill it til the head comes off, remove the side cover, soak what's left with WD or similar product. Let it soak a while, then grab the piece of bolt left over with vice-grips and carefully back it out.
absolutely not. you run a great risk of not getting the cover off that way. and impact driver will be the best way. and easy out will be the second best way. easy out is like a left handed drill bit that gets larger as it screws in. you have to drill a small hole in each screw before you can use it. i have never had one that an impact driver couldn't get out. i have wasted too many hours with bolts and screws to count. i finally got smart and got a impact driver. if they were $250 they'd still be worth it.
he first thing i try is a screwdriver with a hex shaft, one of the sort you can swap bits on the end. i tap it in with a mallet then put pressure on it while twisting with an adjustable wrench. works most every time. but drilling the heads off of nearly every screw was the only way i could get my engine covers off the first go round. once i pulled the covers i could back the screws out by hand. i've also used a vise grip on the end when needed. i have found that technique way more reliable than pounding on a spring loaded screw driver and mushing my hands.
I am aware that you can go to most any decent auto parts place and get phillips type bits, or screwdriver sets, that have the ACR's in them
the sweet thing about the ones from Snap On is that they have one bit for removal and one for installation
the ones that have the ribs or "teeth" for both directions are a very close second and you can buy a whole set cheap
another cheap tip for philips and allen heads
use valve lapping compound
it gives the driving tool much better grip and reduces the chances of ruining the head
learned that from many years of wrenching German and Italian exotics
those types of bits in a 10 buck impact driver totally rule
I spelled phillips both ways so I'd only be half retarded and cannot recall which way is correct, right this minute
as far as using a spiral and wedging type easy out in those tiny case screws
you better be damned good with a drill to center your pilot hole
the best easy outs are the splined type that have a matching splined nut that slides in place and allows you to easily turn it with a socket or wrench
here is one and this is a much larger stud than case screws
I just got lucky that I managed to get that small pilot centered well enough to get it out
I really try hard to avoid having to center drill, with a hand held drill motor, a hole all the way thru (relieves stress and greatly increases the odds of removing a broken bolt) broken bolts and get them out without breaking them
I too agree on not drilling off the heads and will use a hammer and sharp chisel first
but if you gotta.... be careful and pay attention so you don't ruin your covers
I too swear by the hand impact driver, but I occasionally come across a phillips head screw that is too thrashed for even the impact to touch. I then use a dremel tool with a small cutoff wheel to slot the screw head, then use a flathead bit in my impact driver to knock it out. I've yet to meet a fastener I can't conquer.
heat is your friend. blow torch the screw head. it'll transfer heat to it's immediate suroundings, then when really hot (spit pops off the surface), ice cube the head of the fastener for a couple seconds and use the impact driver ...a really good hit should do it. kroil or roast off and time can also be you friend in advance of the above.
A few additional thoughts.
1. When slotting a stuck screw with a Dremel tool, be careful to make a straight cut right in the middle. And then with even more care and caution, go back and back-cut the positive sides of the slot to give your screwdriver more bite.
2. Reverse/left-hand drill bits work wonders. They cut while in the revers direction, so they are constantly working at removing the bolt as you drill.
3. And of course the trusty impact driver. Remember to occasionally lube the impact driver's mechanism. IF there is any doubt just start with the impact driver.
4. Finally, you boys don't need me to tell you so, BUT when you have a stripped out, rusty old screw, DO NOT PUT IT BACK IN THE HOLE!!!! I know you all have done it at least once. Replace the darn thing! Even better yet, invest $20-$50 and replace everything with stainless cap screws.
The impact driver is the scariest tool in my tool box (not counting the router in the wood working stuff) because when you use it you can't go half way. One tap to set it and then a good wack with a heavy hammer, so far it's worked every time with no problems.
If I run into a stuck bolt or screw - my first attack on the part is to hit it with penetrating oil. My impact driver is my best friend and my drill & dremel are the tools of last resort.
Order of attack:
- Oil it
- Whack it
- Drill it
- Take it to an expert...