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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This thing has been sitting in the shop for a year or two and it's finally getting its turn under the gas axe. The plan is to chop it up and go with a hard tail café-scrambler-bobber thing

I kid. Going for a full restoration. Hoping to have it looking like it just rolled off the assembly line.

Issues so far:
  • Significant crack in the upper case and front sprocket cover (have new sprocket cover already, upper case will be welded)
  • Mismatched carbs (one is correct for the year, the other is from a later model)
  • Ding in the front fender might not be (easily?) reparable
  • Wiring is trashed (good thing I have a little experience in this area)
  • Headlight is not OEM and will need to be replaced
  • Cracked front fender strut (repairing an option?)
 

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Sonreir runs Spark Moto.
They sell intelligent LiPoFe batteries. If anyone is in the market, you should check them out.
I'm gonna get one for my next project.

Love those titans, too.
 

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The plan is to chop it up and go with a hard tail café-scrambler-bobber thing
Can't you just pick one? I mean you list three things that aren't even remotely related. If it's a hardtail it's a chopper end of story (unless you set it up as a hardtail flat tracker then it's a bobber).

Here is a resource on how to race prep a T500:
Suzuki 500 race preparation
some of the info is dated but it's all still workable.

Don't hardtail the thing, you'll just ruin it.

It's too bad you are on the complete opposite side of the country as I have a complete cobra engine sitting in my NY storage. it would save you the cost of welding.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Most of the parts have been sent off for blasting and powder.

Engine tear down has begin.

Any tips for removing the head bolts? I was able to get two of them using the double nut method, but I broke my wrench before I could get the others.

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If it's really stuck, I'd consider welding a larger nut that would slide all the way down the bolt.

Between the heat of welding and the better torque you can apply to the stud, I'd think it would give you the best chance of getting it out...

Or snap it off. :(
 

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I don't usually remove them. Are you doing this to get them replated? You will probably need to use a torch on the cases to help get them loose. Make a half/half mixture of kerosene and ATF to soak these in-between heating cycles.
 

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We didn't get to this guy in time.

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There was a guy years ago who had a T500 chopper featured in "the Horse" and the bike ran straight pipes. Not Chambers with no muffler, but a straight open piece of pipe. He complained about not being able to jet it right in the article. I stopped reading the horse shortly after that.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Some of the parts are starting to come back/in.


New spokes and nipples, all the black parts back from powder, and engine cases are mostly done with vapor blasting.

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And the cases are finally finished with blasting. Time for welding.


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Hope your welder has done this sort of thing before. Those cases should be bolted back together, preferably with sacrificial bearings and then preheated in an oven ( although there are better methods than using an oven). After welding they should be returned to the oven to cool slowly. I have a set of cases that I acquired a while back that are a good example of how things go bad if it's not done correctly.
 

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welding that will not distort the bearing bores if the welding is done in a minimal manner
that cracked area is like a tab it sticks up and is not a big part of the structure of the case
 

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Discussion Starter #17
We shall see. The gent handling the welding for me has years of experience restoring old bikes and I trust him implicitly.

But hey, it's only metal. It doesn't bleed. If it's messed up we'll just take the next step in getting it fixed and working correctly.
 

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Cast aluminum is a huge PITA to weld. In addition to the preheat and post heat for slow cooling, cast aluminum in this application invariably has oil and dirt that even vapor blasting cant completely remove.
This doesnt usually require just a welder but one that has done this type of welding before. Looks like it will likely need machining afterwards to seal properly.

Best of luck. Let us know how it turns out!!!
 
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