Cafe Racer Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys, Im from Belgium and new to the forum.Last days I've been trying to get the wiring of my Suzuki GS450L done.
I marked all of the cables but not properly enough I suppose :p Hopefully you guys can help me out here!

IMG_1314.jpg
This is what the bike looks like now


IMG_1348.JPG
This part should be connected to the battery somehow and perhaps to something else as well but not sure how or what..


Wiring.jpg
This is the basic wiring that hopefully I did correct. Feedback would be very appreciated! :)

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,510 Posts
you will die on that motorcycle ,dont try to get us involved in a suicide pact
this is not that kind of forum
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,563 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Because your bike exhibits most of the bad choices displayed on all of the art bikes on the "bikeexif", "pipeburn" and "hipster-caferacers-that_aren't-made_to_be^ridden" websites that have infested the internet in the last few years.

[URL="https://www.caferacer.net/forum/new-members-read-here/22280-read-first.html"]>>>>>>READ THIS WHOLE THREAD FIRST!!<<<<<<[/URL]
Thanks for the honesty, appreciate it. I have to say I did some research about for example the suspension which was pretty cheap. Besides the suspension and the clip-ons, everything that you see on this bike is still original or shouldn't be unsafe I guess? Correct me if I'm wrong. I'm here to learn so I'm all ear if you talk about things that are unsafe or should definitely be changed.

Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,510 Posts
the rear tire will lock up and skid when you hit a bump
measure the rod travel of the rear shock
measure as if the bumper is not there
multiply that measurement by 1.3 add 2cm to that
the solution is how much clearance to the rear tire in relation to suspension travel,that you need to be safe
cheers to you
also it appears you may have longer than original rear shocks this means you will have more chain slack when unladen and you cannot use the manual specification for adjusting slack
also you need to raise the front up as much as the rear
because it is very unwise and can lead to instability ,changing the bikes steering geometry in big jumps without test riding each change ,.changes that are done in small increments before testing
the 450 l model ,yes it has a longer fork
but you cannot make it be low in the front without lowering the rear at trhe same time
the bottom line is you cannot make a cafe racer from the l model
the frame is way too far wrong for that
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,563 Posts
The rear shocks can be fixed, but the spring rate is very stiff, so you would need to do work to the forks to make them work together. ... (That means stiffer springs and cartridge emulator, not swapping them out for modern inverted forks).
Fixing the Cheapo RFY Shocks

The battery tray you've installed looks like it will be smashed after only a few good bumps.....and hopefully you won't have mounted the battery so that the posts come into contact with the metal seat pan when that happens.

You have dropped the front ride height be what looks to be 30-40 mm. This may have the fork sliders coming into hard contact with the lower triple clamp. which could be hazardous during a panic stop. This may not be an issue on your model because the L model had extended forks, so you may have more fork length than slider travel. However another, more important, issue with dropping the front is that it will have a significant effect on the steering geometry. Add to the fact that the rear shocks are probably 25-30 mm longer than the stock ones, this will compound the issue (lower in front by 30mm and higher in the rear by 25mm has to be added together in the geometry calculations). The result could be an unstable steering characteristic at speed.....think speed wobble, or shopping cart wheel.

Fenders. Put them on. Even if you trim them down a little, they are needed. The front, not only keeps rocks and road debris from hitting you in the face, but it also acts as a brace to keep the front forks in line and acting together. The rear one keeps crap from being thrown right at your carburetors, and keeps you from walking around with a giant skunk stripe up your back after a ride.

Speaking of carburetors, I see what look like decent quality filters (Assuming K&N, or the like), not the cheap crap chrome mesh ones. But Pod filters, and CV carbs (Vacuum operated slides), like the ones on your bike don't work well together without a significant amount of work and knowledge. I won't say they can't be made to work, but you aren't going to just "luck" into the proper settings. And even then, the bike may run OK in one throttle positioon, but run like crap when wide open, or stumble badly when throttle inputs are made, or vice versa.

Electrically, I'm not sure what your plan is, but your diagram is confusing. I have to assume you have left a lot out for whatever reason, but what you do have, I'm not sure how it is supposed to work. attached is a GS450 wiring diagram. (not sure what year it is for, or what year yours is)
gs450wiring.jpg

Finally, Clip-ons without relocating your foot controls is awkward, and awkward is not safe. Think about rear set foot pegs. Since you don't have your pegs installed I will assume that this is in process.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,510 Posts
8 ball is right on the ball
the only thing i would add is that a 25mm longer shock will raise the rear by the factor of the swingarm leverage ratio
in your case anbout 1.25
so 25mm = a 31mm change fox manuals 055.JPG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,967 Posts
The steel peanut fuel tank should be the last thing you worry about painting and mounting and making all pretty, when somebody posts a pic of their bike and the tank appears to be the most important part of their build that is usually an indication of where the "build" priorities are completely messed up.

+1 put fenders on the thing and don't give us that silly line about how great it looks without them, no fenders and no chain guard is perfect for a stationary indoor motorcycle and makes a real motorcycles appearance and function incomplete. You won't find a lot of love on this site for bobber/choppers, most of the regulars here are gear heads and motorcycle racers.


... this website is acting up today so this post might show up :p or it might disappear completely!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,510 Posts
well it is a godsend that 99% of the cafe racers and other types of builds these days ,created by the poisoned in the brain iphone generation, do not run well enough to be ridden at any kind of pace or even keep up with traffic
because if that was so the streets would be slick with the blood of these poor dumb saps
this guy doesn't even understand what suspension is and can't even visualize the wheels going up and down
they are all that way,completly brain dead not even aware of the most basic mechanical devices
butteye digress no harm no fowl
overall
it is like taking an airplane and turning the wings over
no one will die because it will never fly
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Damn guys, so much hate :confused: I mean, yes I'm new to this and since you all say the internet is full of 'bad examples' on how to build a cafe racer, it was easy for me to stumble upon those sites and start working on a new project. Don't blame me for not knowing everything about this technical stuff, I'm just trying to build a custom bike here as a fish.. god.. :/

@TrialsRider: The tank is still original, no paintjob or anything done + I am still working on the fenders, thanks :)

@8ball: Thanks for your advice man.
- Nice post about the RFY shocks. I will look into that.
- I will put the battery tray up a 1,5 inch or so then it should def be good.
- What exactly do you mean with the filters aren't going to work with the carbs as they are?
- I found some other wiring diagrams but this one looks decent. Thanks a lot

Daan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,967 Posts
...
- What exactly do you mean with the filters aren't going to work with the carbs as they are? ...
The correct answer to that is in understanding why your bike was equipped with CV carburetors, and how CV carbs operate differently then a regular old slide / venturi aka racing type carburetor.
The quick and dirty condensed answer is that your bank of CV carbs will not operate well without an air box or at the very least a plenum that provides a sufficiently large volume of reasonably still (non-turbulent, hopefully clean) air flow for them all to draw from. hint ... they operate on vacuum pressure and are sensitive to external air pressure changes plus their performance is degraded by turbulence just like any other carb, but even more so because CV's are attempting to make the thing run as fuel efficient lean and pollution free as possible using economical period technology.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
your working on the bike? hope someday to ride it? i find it hard to believe when you dont know where a battery charger cable goes,
Dude, you got some personal issues to fix or what? This is only funny to me.. I come here for your guys help.. I wasn't even being rude or anything haha :D
Is it impossible or forbidden to start on something that is new to you in life? What are you like a fat gamer that hasn't been sucked in months that needs to blow off some steam somewhere? :/ Anyway if you don't have anything constructive to say, just don't say anything :)

Seems you chose a fitting username, fool
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,510 Posts
a cv carb uses atmospheric pressure to lft the slide from underneath the piston or diaphram
the engine depending on throttle plate opening and engine rpm is what changes the pressure above the slide piston or diaphram
dropping that pressure enables

atmospheric pressure to charge in trying to equalise
this is why some pods very seriously effect the slide because some of the restrict the port that must allow air to go in and out
some mistakenly think the bell mouth atmosphere port is supplying air to the intake tract thru the port but not so
cv carbs work quite well and are the next best thing to modern injection systems
cv carbs were improved over the years to where we had motorcycles that ran perfectly fine even at high altitude,because the design compensates for that
but like trials rider promotes do not modify anything.at all related to the engine
you could show that you are wiser than all the others because a stock engine airbox exhaust will be quicker and run better all the time than anything but proffesionally tuned setup
see,it is a steep learning curve just getting an old bike tuned up with no mods
knowing zero about tuning you dont stand a chinamans chance to get it running modified
and believe us it is not fun chasing an elusive tune when you could be riding
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,563 Posts
.....and believe us it is not fun chasing an elusive tune when you could be riding
...and wearing out a plug wrench while burning your finger tips doing plug chop, after plug chop, repeatedly reading plugs on the side of a long abandoned roadway. (not that reading plugs is as easy as it once was with the current crappy eco gas were are able to buy, now). And if you aren't spark plug literate, you will need someone with a dyno.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top