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Go to your local habitat for humanity store or wherever it is that people donate useless building supplies and you can buy a cheap low quality one for about $10.
 

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you know... i once saw a rectangular fiberglass bar sink....
 

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I think the sink idea is brilliant - but don't the metal sinks have some kind of harden sprayed installation on the bottom of them??? I guess it can be sanded off but that means you would have to paint the metal -
 

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I'm going to see if paint stripper will work on that stuff. I'll let you know.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
What would it matter if you sanded it. It's stainless so it shouldn't rust. You'd just end up with a brushed look. Now if your not using stainless wire when welding it then that'll rust but the rest should be fine. Just spray it down with like a clear coat on the outside or just paint it. Then just coat it on the inside. But I think you keep it fairly topped off then you should be fine with just leaving it bare inside.
 

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uh....who told you stainless doesn't rust? you can go tell that to the ducati sport classic guys with warranty claims whose stainless spokes rusted, or ikea when their stainless shelves rusted.

any sink you get for $40 new is not going to be the rust proof kind of stainless, it is merely going to be rust resistant and even at that resistant as compared to bare metal.
 

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Great idea! The things I would watch out for is distortion from all the welding, there will be a LOT of bead thrown down to do that. But I do find that with proper prep stainless easy to get a good bead on, it's the deformation/ distortion that get's you. Do a little reading on welding SS before hitting it and try some practice pieces first. Also get the right filler material.

YES Geeto, ANY SS can rust. But it's usually by contamination. The $40- sink won't rust till you clean it with steel wool.

So Pinche, any grinding disks, drill bits, scotch brite pads etc.- Use them new and not an anything steel, then you'll have a rust free SS tank.
 

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The corrosion resistance of stainless depends heavily upon the type of stainless that you use. It is will be largely corrosion resistant, but I will polish and wax the outside and probably just leave the inside uncoated. My guess is that it would not rust though in my lifetime. I have to weld lots of stainless at work, so I have tons of scrap to practice on. I have 2 sinks that I could use. One has more squared corners and the other more rounded. The squared off one has no coating on the underside to clean off, but the rounded one has thick black hard crap to clean off. As far as distortion, I don't think I'll be running a continuous bead. Probably lots of tack welds and then filling in the seams in stages to prevent the hard core distortion that I love.
 

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Good idea, now I'm thinking about it. It really shouldn't matter that much if the cheap 304 stainless isn't as good as 316, the corrosive potential of the hydrocarbons going inside the finished product will be minimal compared to say acid or water. One thing everyone should remember about stainless is that what makes stainless stainless is a very thin layer of chromium oxide on the surface ONLY. Sanding, wire brushing ( especially if the wire brush isn't stainless) will strip off or foul this thin layer of chromium oxide thereby rendering everything you liked about stainless in the first place, useless. Still though, hydrocarbons are not particularly corrosive to metal - so OK. Still will work. If you're really serious about welding stainless and want to do a proper job, solution anneal after welding. Just find a shop with an oven that goes to say 1175F - I think, check it out. You need to solution anneal to bring the chromium oxide back into solution especially in the weld areas or the beads won't be quite "sticky" enough.
 

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quote:Originally posted by Geeto67

uh....who told you stainless doesn't rust? you can go tell that to the ducati sport classic guys with warranty claims whose stainless spokes rusted, or ikea when their stainless shelves rusted.

Like Rosko said, most any stainless can be made to rust and the easiest way for 300 food grade series to rust is for it to be contaminated (which can happen many ways...ie lay black metal on or against it, scrub with steel wool, acids, blast cabinets that have blasted ferrous/black metals... etc) by black steels. This is why the ducati guys food grade stainless spokes rust.

Food grade is easily bent and formed, however, 303 doesn't weld well at all and it is very likely the sink is 303. This is why, if you are observant, you may have noticed 303 stainless commercial food stuff silver soldered. 304L welds very well and although I don't find it difficult to weld, it's much more difficult to weld than black steel and easier than Ti. The beads don't lie, any gray in the bead means you cooked the chromium out of it and it's NFG.



any sink you get for $40 new is not going to be the rust proof kind of stainless, it is merely going to be rust resistant and even at that resistant as compared to bare metal.


you are confusing food grade with 400 series and even it is much more rust resistant than black steels once it's been properly heat treated. I have some 2205 Super duplex here if you'd like to see if you can make some serious stainless rust, Interesting stuff and has strength and elastic properties much like Chrome Moly. Too many variables out there to be making such hard and fast dogmatic statements which end up being quite misleading.
 

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quote:Originally posted by trepanned23

Good idea, now I'm thinking about it. It really shouldn't matter that much if the cheap 304 stainless isn't as good as 316, the corrosive potential of the hydrocarbons going inside the finished product will be minimal compared to say acid or water. One thing everyone should remember about stainless is that what makes stainless stainless is a very thin layer of chromium oxide on the surface ONLY. Sanding, wire brushing ( especially if the wire brush isn't stainless) will strip off or foul this thin layer of chromium oxide thereby rendering everything you liked about stainless in the first place, useless. Still though, hydrocarbons are not particularly corrosive to metal - so OK. Still will work. If you're really serious about welding stainless and want to do a proper job, solution anneal after welding. Just find a shop with an oven that goes to say 1175F - I think, check it out. You need to solution anneal to bring the chromium oxide back into solution especially in the weld areas or the beads won't be quite "sticky" enough.

now are you sure about this? I don't think so.
 

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Hack- you think I should silver solder it vs. TIG?
 

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HackaSaw: Definately sure. Even grinding carbon steel or iron in the vicinity of stainless has the potential to foul the surface layer of chromium oxide when iron or steel dust contaminates by landing on it. Take a brillo pad to a hunk of stainless for a while and then drop the hunk of stainless in some water. Watch what happens to the area where you used steel wool. Rust. This is what I do for a living so I pretty much deal with stuff like this every day.
 

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well yes but to say that the only thing that keeps stainless rusting is a thin outside layer would imply that cutting or machining it would kill it's rust resistance

and that isn't the case
 

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303 doesn't tig nearly as well as 304L

try it, you'll have plenty of scraps to play with

maybe the sink is 304L but I doubt it
 

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oh and for which grades of stainless are these annealing/heat treating procedures proper for in order to be done correctly?

there are many kinds of stainless
 
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