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Discussion Starter #1
Hi

I am working on a new tank for my Yamaha SR500 cafe racer. It is an old Ducati tank which have been modded quite a bit. It has to be bondo'ed a bit and get a new paintjob, but i have bought a 3 step tank sealant kit. My question is. Do i seal the tank before i do the bondo-job or after?

And what about the paintjob. I lust after a basic black with gold pinstripe paintjob and would like to do it myself with rattle cans. Any tricks or ideas I could benefit from?

Jonas

Motobikin!

Yamaha SR 500 cafe
MZ TS 250 cafe
MZ ES 150
MZ ETZ 250
 

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I rattle-canned a couple parts on my project, sanded lightly & rubbed them out & they don't look too bad. Of course they're in my basement & haven't been outside in sunlight yet. It required a pretty thick coat of paint to work, though. As always, with any kind of paint - proper prep is the key. A coat of primer will show up any imperfections.
 

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I use lacquer from Autozone because it's easy to repair mistakes.

Usually it goes like this on bare metal parts:
- Sand with 180, then 320
- etching primer, dry for a couple of days. (skip for fiberglass or previously painted metal)
- filling primer if needed, 2-3 coats with 320 or 400 grit sanding between each coat. If it doesn't shine at this stage you've got to keep working it. Dry for a couple of days.
- 2-3 color coats, sand between with 1000 grit. Keep going until it's all covered and no dust remains. Spray one last dry coat with as little dust as possible and shoot clear within a couple of hours.
- 2-3 clear coats. - same as above. Don't try to make it shiny in one coat because you're guaranteed to get runs & dust in your garage. Let the final coat dry for a couple of days and sand with 1500. Then light polishing compound in a week. Wax one month later.


I've painted a couple of cars & Vespas with proper equipment and I can honestly say you can get results that are ALMOST as good with spraypaint and some care.

The biggest problem with spray paint is that it is non-catalyzed, so it will never be as hard as proper catalyzed acrylic enamel or base-clear. You will have to be a little more careful with spray painted parts.
 

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Jonas,
A really decent rattle can job can be done if you get the right paint. If you go to an auto parts store and get automotive touchup paint in the larger cans...and some clear coat. Put on several coats of the color, let it cure for a couple of days, wet sand it with 800 then 1200 grit. Then top coat with clear. Wet sand with 1200 if needed, polish.
Be patient, follow the instuctions. Most of the quality of the final job will be determined by the quality of whats UNDER the paint, not the paint itself. Paint can be easily fixed in most cases..what's underneath cannot be fixed so easily.
JohnnyB
 

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all good advice as far as i can see. i did a rattle can job with some laquer from the local autoparts store. clear coated it and rubbing compounded it out. looked great for a long time. now i have the spray stuff to do pre-cat laq and it goes on much nicer, but the end result can look very similar. prep is key, and patience. take your time and dont rush. its a slow process bt the results can be really nice.

jc
 

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quote:
Jonas,
A really decent rattle can job can be done if you get the right paint. If you go to an auto parts store and get automotive touchup paint in the larger cans...and some clear coat. Put on several coats of the color, let it cure for a couple of days, wet sand it with 800 then 1200 grit. Then top coat with clear. Wet sand with 1200 if needed, polish.
Be patient, follow the instuctions. Most of the quality of the final job will be determined by the quality of whats UNDER the paint, not the paint itself. Paint can be easily fixed in most cases..what's underneath cannot be fixed so easily.
JohnnyB
I squirt on Rustoleum and don't waste time wet sanding/polishing....I'm just going to crash and trash it anyway.
I like my Tannermatic parts...don't need no stinkin' paint.
FC
 

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quote:
I squirt on Rustoleum and don't waste time wet sanding/polishing....I'm just going to crash and trash it anyway.
I like my Tannermatic parts...don't need no stinkin' paint.
FC
And the Rustoleum paint is fuel-proof once it dries. Some aren't.
 

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quote:

I squirt on Rustoleum and don't waste time wet sanding/polishing....I'm just going to crash and trash it anyway.
I like my Tannermatic parts...don't need no stinkin' paint.
FC
Frank...look at my bikes...I've gone to high quality primer only. Easy to match, easy to apply...and if you handle it a lot it gets an almost satin finish. In fact...I can repaint my bikes between races!
JohnnyB
 

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earl schieb paints mine for $99.99. i love earl scheib!

tex
 

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quote:
earl schieb paints mine for $99.99. i love earl scheib!

tex

Seriously? I need to have a black bomber tank painted and I'd like to have it professionally done because there are some dents and I hate doing bodywork.

Oh, and the lacquer from Autozone is NOT gas resistant.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the advice!

I will dig in and focus on a proper prep-work before spraying.

What about pin stripes?

Any ideas?

Jonas

Motobikin!

Yamaha SR 500 cafe
MZ TS 250 cafe
MZ ES 150
MZ ETZ 250
 
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