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The rebuild saga continues . . . .

2218 Views 24 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  texmawby
Interesting day. These photos may not be in order, but here goes.

1. I found out what the problem was at the track. The F#$%ing screw came out of the oil filter, which was the SAME issue that caused the original seizure issue with Strempher et al. So I have screwed it in in with red locktite; See what it did to the oil cover. Totally screwed it up. It was only the tab on the lockwasher on the oil cup that saved the oil cup from flinging everything everywhere.

the engine received a full wash out with solvent and a few changes of oil.

2. So following JB's advice (HAHA) I decided it was time to put in the SHINY NEW PISTONS. Woo Hoo. Fit like a dream. But I did put them in by installing in the barrels upside down and then putting the pins in the rods with those ultra coll JB supplied connecting rod pin buttons..

3. I went with a stock cam (for once) with standard side covers. I will do with that for a season just to get this fu*&^ing thing runningf!! I am saving the needle bearing covers for that special moment.

4. I also used loctite on the oil pump stud nuts, as they seem to be losing their correct thread.

5. something weird happend. I put the pin on the cam down, the "O" was up on the cam, crank at TDC, and then i put the cam chain on. no problem. finished assembly. Drive chain on, carbs on, fuel on, etc. . But it wouldn't fire. All I got was instant backfire, which I knew was timing was off. So I put the Pertronix 180 degrees off from where I've been running it. Fires up perfectly. Very strange, I haven't figured this one out yet. JB??

So here (I hope ) are the photos of the fucked up oil cover thingy, and the shiny new pistons.

By the way, the bike runs GREAT. Now I just gotta keep checking stuff. Notice the sleeping dog in the photo.

Aaron, make SURE YOU PUT THAT lock ring behind the oil slinger thingy.

This photo also shows, if you look carefeully, where the cam chain made grooves into the head on the forward lower side and the baddy bladdy bladdy [it's getting late}. . . . Jesus *&^

But Larry 888, thanks for the racing on the presums. today. It was a blast. A little known secret. And that Honda 125 was a hoot. You should try it. And you were scraping pegs!!!!

Uh, did i get the pistons in the right direction? Aren't the spark plugs on the other side?

I'm gonna run this fucker at the streets of Laconia and shit. . . .
Edited by - imslow on Jun 04 2005 9:40:27 PM

Edited by - imslow on Jun 04 2005 9:41:17 PM

Edited by - imslow on Jun 04 2005 9:43:01 PM

Edited by - imslow on Jun 04 2005 9:50:24 PM

Edited by - imslow on Jun 04 2005 9:53:45 PM
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i second jbs opinion on the crank. seems weird to me.

is that cat dead?

im not wearing any pants.

you know, its funny on the 50, you have plenty of time to read that, giggle and then exit the corner.

well, isnt it that and becasue the rods are straight up and down??? when the crank rotates, the rods splay, or im sure there is some technical term for that, so it keeps it from moving. binds it in essence. there is less verticle force being exerted. where as when they are at bdc tdc, it frees up the shaft. so every about 180, its giong to move. and slowly get worse and worse.

my opinion of course.

i just meant at say 90 from tdc, the rods/crank journals are at the 3/9 oclock position, if its a 180 crank. one piston going up, the other going down. so i just figured at that point, the wear would be less because you have the fact that the rods arent both exerting force downwards. (then upwards) so thats where the wear is going to take place. more than any other place. with the change in direction, it would only exacerbate the problem. so in essence the wear pattern would be more like and oblique if you were to draw it no?? thats all. so play at tdc and bdc would make sense to me.

huh, i didnt know they had 360 degree cranks. must be why aaron likes them so much.

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