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Yours is a better setup if the steel is hard enough, the nylon turns to mush on the suzuki part, so cleaning it up and lubricating really makes a huge difference at the lever pull effort and how far the thing actually pushes the clutch rod.
 

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Nah I didn't remove the unit. It's really just a locknut and adjustable screw that sets the thrust bearing mechanism. Just loosen the nut, loosen the screw, turn same screw clockwise until you feel some resistance, back screw out ¼ turn and tighten locknut, and that's all there is to it. The bearing itself is inside the case and constantly lubricated

What you see there is the result of my neglect to adjust the clutch that hasn't been touched in about 5k miles. Started slipping in 5th gear and I was like oh I need new friction disks, oh nevermind I just have to adjust the clutch, oh shit I need new friction disks lol

Clutch works just fine now, but I have about an inch of play in the lever, any less and that pivot arm will touch the casing
to get rid of the play in mine. i inserted a bearing in the hole , then put the rod/arm back in. you can adjust the amount of play with the dia of the bearing, 4,5 mm etc
 

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My second attempt at making a "neon" sign, this time with electroluminescent wire.

I used cotter pins to provide 1/4" of standoff from the sign, and threaded the wire through the eyes of the pins.



 

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Stuka and I are still setting out 15 km of hard enduro trails :devilish: using KTM and Beta sponsor tape to drive the poor sods towards the nastiest terrain that my dog and I can walk or climb. :D Tough job but somebody's gotta do it and October 15 will come up fast with all the preparations we need to do before then. Now is about the time when some of the guys will get all stressed out over the; course layout, porta potty, camping, parking, prizes, timing, security, emergency preparation and shite.
 

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Finally got off my lazy butt and put the carbs from my trackbike on my Super Light in an attempt to make it run right.

Woo hoo! Turns out the newly rebuilt FCRs have an issue, as the not quite as newly rebuilt FCRs off the other bike made it run fine. I'll figure out what went wrong with the first set over the winter. For now it's time to ride and see what breaks.
 

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Made a new neon sign with electroluminescent wire. Theres a few things I'd do differently, but it didn't come out too bad:







 
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I'm still vaguely looking for a broken trans ironhead sportster engine. I wanna build one of these by bandsawing the trans off an ironhead engine because i am too poor to afford much more vintage than that. At this point evo sportys (which don't look as old but are way more available) are in danger. Broken trans or not.

Wheel Tire Car Land vehicle Vehicle
 
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Not gonna lie. Those faux neon signs are sweet. I wonder if you threaded it through glass tubing (easily bent with a small torch) if you could ramp the effect up more?
 

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So the alternative way to do it is with rubber hose and LEDs... see the Gulf sign. That sign looks far better from a distance, and would take a bit of effort to make the technique look good close up.

That being said id love to take a glass sculpting class and learn REAL neon
 
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I'm still vaguely looking for a broken trans ironhead sportster engine. I wanna build one of these by bandsawing the trans off an ironhead engine because i am too poor to afford much more vintage than that. At this point evo sportys (which don't look as old but are way more available) are in danger. Broken trans or not.

View attachment 107233
You can easy buy a brand new modern S&S engine for about 10 grand.
 

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I want the parallel pushrod tubes. I can find big twins running locally for 1000-2000 bucks. I just want the 4 cam look. And the iron heads and all look nice and vintage. Planning to go back to an angle box built from a model a ford axle center then do a Frazier Nash chain setup. Plus I feel like if I use a set of busted ironhead cases it just gives it flavor and a bitsa feel. Brakes will likely be mechanical early ford with matching wire wheels and 4.50x21 tires. A little heavy handed but cheap and readily available.
 

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Replaced ANOTHER tail light bulb... I haven't had any other lights go out on the Z1 in the last 11 years... but the tail light bulb has burned out at least 5 or 6 times.

I'm going to order a LED brake light panel from webike to hopefully put a nail in this coffin
 

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Could be worse; every expensive fire alarm in the house went off at 1:30 in the morning and there is no way to shut all those things off other then to start ripping them out of the ceiling and throw them outside :devilish: I still can't hear right this morning and see bright light spots even when I close my eyes, what kind of sadistic individual created those things :unsure:

... CaT good luck with the diodes, if the incandescent lamps are blowing strictly due to vibration, it might even work.
 
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