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Spent a few hours servicing this R100RS, I restored it for a friend nearly 10 years ago.
He spent over £200 on a service at a local shop last week, by the looks of it all they did was change the oil, and spark plugs.
 

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Nearly finished shaping these arches for my MGB. The green one I agreed to buy from shit bay a little while ago turned out to have been an insurance write off (bugger) so I cancelled the sale and found another. Really good solid condition this is, but getting it media blasted shortly for a bare metal re-paint. Sebring replica is what it should be.

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Time for an update Mark?

Also looking for some advise. I'm just starting to prep a tank for paint. It was nickel plated back when that sort of thing was fashionable and the local platers here aren't really interested is removing plating. Quite frankly there isn't one locally that I would trust with this tank anyway and I'd likely just get some mounting brackets back. It has slid down the road at some point long ago.. a hole was cut in into the bottom to facilitate removing the dent and most of the rash. The hole was patched with a piece of MS sheet using sheet metal screws and then the whole thing was soldered over. As disgusting as it sounds, it is a solid repair. Anyway the nickel plating has some (minor) signs of surface rust poking through, but the tank is still good and solid. The plan is to apply POR15 Metal Prep to the exterior, which is just phosphoric acid. Then scuff the daylights out of it and apply a second session with Metal Prep to make sure the rust is dealt with. Then a two part epoxy primer and a skim coat of filler to hide the remaining road rash. Its the primers adhesion to the nickel that I'm wondering about, but assume it will be ok if I scuff it up enough to get a decent mechanical bond. Am I on the right track? The 2 part primer that I have is probably past it's best before date, so will have to scout out some new stuff. I'd ask you for a recommendation for primer, but I guessing that compliments of the dorks in Brussels you can't still buy the nasty stuff that eventually makes your balls drop off.
 

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buying VW parts. Got a pretty sweet pancake motor that someone had begun converting to an upright. Came with 32-pdsit carbs which aren't worn out (but I haven't dismantled to look inside yet either), a never run alternator conversion kit, and some other fun stuff. My rail may live again!

As an aside....someone tossed the crossover/idle tube for the carbs. :( And I am sure they are gonna be a right pain to get to run right with individual air filters. No hope finding the "other" emulsion tubes that came on the dual carb beetles.
 

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Time for an update Mark?

Also looking for some advise. I'm just starting to prep a tank for paint. It was nickel plated back when that sort of thing was fashionable and the local platers here aren't really interested is removing plating. Quite frankly there isn't one locally that I would trust with this tank anyway and I'd likely just get some mounting brackets back. It has slid down the road at some point long ago.. a hole was cut in into the bottom to facilitate removing the dent and most of the rash. The hole was patched with a piece of MS sheet using sheet metal screws and then the whole thing was soldered over. As disgusting as it sounds, it is a solid repair. Anyway the nickel plating has some (minor) signs of surface rust poking through, but the tank is still good and solid. The plan is to apply POR15 Metal Prep to the exterior, which is just phosphoric acid. Then scuff the daylights out of it and apply a second session with Metal Prep to make sure the rust is dealt with. Then a two part epoxy primer and a skim coat of filler to hide the remaining road rash. Its the primers adhesion to the nickel that I'm wondering about, but assume it will be ok if I scuff it up enough to get a decent mechanical bond. Am I on the right track? The 2 part primer that I have is probably past it's best before date, so will have to scout out some new stuff. I'd ask you for a recommendation for primer, but I guessing that compliments of the dorks in Brussels you can't still buy the nasty stuff that eventually makes your balls drop off.

Left hand side just about finished. Took me 4 days just to make that rear wheel arch, but its spot on against the side of those fibreglass replicas I bought. Just got one more to make now.

IMG_1031.JPG

Pulled the engine out at the weekend and bolted the shell up onto this rotisserie that I made with the help of my son. Only cost £57 to make this and can rotate the bodyshell around 360 degrees with ease. Never used or made one before, but wouldn't be without it.

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PM me a pic of that tank to show the plating. You'd be better skimming the road rash areas with filler after keying the surface with 80 grit paper on a DA sander - if you have one. Then acid etch prime it, followed by some 2k primer and then dust some Matt black on with a rattle can as a guide coat for blocking it back. If you look on my old bike post, you'll find a section where I painted my tank. If you've got to go out and buy some filler, there's some over here that is good for aluminium and galvanised steel. Adhesion is better, so get a tub of that if you need some. Don't worry if not, it's just the better option.

You can still get the nasty stuff here for Classic Car Restoration - that was the way around beurocracy, just not sure if it would be available on your shelves.
 

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Looks great. When you're done, you can do a celebratory pig roast on that rotisserie!
I have the DA sander. Had to translate that.. I call them random orbital, so DA didn't register at first. Also have a giant roll of 80 grit. Did a quick test and it works well. I wasn't sure about using the filler first or primer first. Part of the problem will be roughing up the little valleys in the rash and I thought the epoxy primer would stick better to any shiny low spots. I'll go at them with a wire brush after sanding. I've tried several different acids including sulphuric on this nickel and it doesn't seem bothered by any of them. I'll have to find another source for acid etch primer. I used some on the fenders and it didn't stand up well. Then I ran into a compatibility problem with the filler primer so I ended up tossing them in the corner and installing some alloy fenders (sorry guards). Will have another go at them as I'm doing the tank.
I looked for the 2 part epoxy that is chemical resistant and it seems to be a little harder that I thought it would be to find locally.

PS Tried taking some photos with the iPhone and it doesn't focus very well on the nickel. I'll try to line up a real camera.

Just tried the wire brush (attached to an angle grinder) on the low spots and it was pointless. A Dremel with the appropriate stone is doing the job... slowly.
 

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Left hand side just about finished. Took me 4 days just to make that rear wheel arch, but its spot on against the side of those fibreglass replicas I bought. Just got one more to make now.

View attachment 77409

Pulled the engine out at the weekend and bolted the shell up onto this rotisserie that I made with the help of my son. Only cost £57 to make this and can rotate the bodyshell around 360 degrees with ease. Never used or made one before, but wouldn't be without it.

View attachment 77417


PM me a pic of that tank to show the plating. You'd be better skimming the road rash areas with filler after keying the surface with 80 grit paper on a DA sander - if you have one. Then acid etch prime it, followed by some 2k primer and then dust some Matt black on with a rattle can as a guide coat for blocking it back. If you look on my old bike post, you'll find a section where I painted my tank. If you've got to go out and buy some filler, there's some over here that is good for aluminium and galvanised steel. Adhesion is better, so get a tub of that if you need some. Don't worry if not, it's just the better option.

You can still get the nasty stuff here for Classic Car Restoration - that was the way around beurocracy, just not sure if it would be available on your shelves.
beautifal work on that fiat !! i think some fatter tars would look better but that's just me
are fiats pretty popular in the youkay?
 

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I made a sanding area/spray booth for small stuff from an old range hood that did the trick as well. If you get one with a light in it, all the better. Just build a little booth under it. Use some flex vent from a cloths drier out the window or into a 5 gallon pail with a couple furnace filters over the top. Got the idea when I used to airbrush lexan slot car bodies.
 

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I know I really need to do something like that. There is a closed in area under my deck that only shares one (formally exterior) wall where I keep the solvent tank, but it's not heated, so I'd have to figure out an explosion proof source of heat. Also thought about using a marine bilge blower because they are explosion proof and relatively cheap. They also come in 115V. My biggest problem is I hate sending stuff out... and I hate to pay the going rate, although it might be cheaper in the long run with the amount of filler, primer, and paint that I turn into dust trying to fair the surface of whatever I'm attempting to work on.
 

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That's a nice deal, but Harbor Freight products can be a hit or miss proposition.

If you can swing a little more, Everlast welders are some solid welders that will outperform the operator in most cases. Super stable low end is especially what you are looking for and some models get down to 2amps. They'll weld razor blades if you want.

A guy that welded for a living had one of these smaller Everlast at home and told me there's no need to spend $3K for a Blue or Red welder. If you're only welding steel, a DC only will do. If you only plan on welding motorcycle frame/bracket stuff at less than 1/8" wall thickness, the 160 amp models will probably be fine. But the more stable at the lower end is important. I'm welding at 75-90 amps on the thin 0.065" tubing of my Yamaha.

Everlast welders is one of the main distributors websites and amazon sells them, too. I can't be more happy with my iTig200T. HF starts, pulse, programmable everything, DC only.


When I upgrade to AC for aluminum. I'll likely go with an HTP brand. It's an Italian brand, I think. USAweld sells them.
Have you changed your thoughts at all about what your next tig will be? I have a bunch of aluminum welding slated for this winter and paying someone else to do it, would be close to the cost of a half decent machine. I have a gun for my MIG that is set up for aluminum on a 10' cable (not a spool gun), but have never tried it and it would be too messy for some of the stuff I have to do. Time to pull the trigger on a TIG. What model would you buy? I used to do stick and mig for a living before I finally came to my senses. I took a course back in the old country on oxy acetylene. Maybe I'm fooling myself, but I think the oxy acetylene experience will help bump me up the learning curve for the tig.
 

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I picked up an ThermalArc Arcmaster 185 on a closeout deal some time back, great welder made in Japan.


Now I might look at the ESAB 186 or for quite a bit less say under $700 with 3 year waranty an Eastwood, although the Harbor Freight stuff looks to be interesting. On the HF stuff and Eastwood I might see what is said about them at welding web that is with the consideration of the equipment snobbery.

HTP's are well respected.

HF and Eastwood will never be repaired where name brand welders could possible be repaired if issues arrise but may be to costly to have repaired. HF and Eastwood I believe will swap them out for warranty periods. I heard HF has a return for any reason policy "I don't like this welder!" for the first year
 

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Even more quality machines are coming out of china right now.

But if I do pull the trigger, I think Ill still go HTP.

BTW, their yearly black friday sale has started. $200 off the price of their 221. Price depends on air or water cooled torch and whether you want the dual voltage option to weld small stuff using 110v.

Oxywelding definitely helps. But if you oxyweld shitty, you can still get metal at least steel to fuse, tig welding especially aluminum is less tolerant of slop (shaky hands, inconsistent arc length, heat input)

If you find that you just cant do it, lightly used AC tigs usualy resell pretty well.
 

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A bunch of the stuff I have to weld is 3/16 aluminum. I talked to a guy at the local machine shop today and he said even the blue and red machines that are rated for 3/16 , like a Miller 180 can do it, but it's really pushing it. I have a habit of buying stuff that is just good enough and then regretting I didn't spend a little more money. I'm north of the 49th, so not sure about dealing with the border. I've bought stuff from Eastwood before, but not HF. Being able to get someone locally to fix it if necessary kind of narrows the options to Miller or Lincoln. Seems like they all come TIG/MIG/STICK combined. I already have a good MIG, so don't give a rats ass about that. Stick would be ok, just because I like it and it's been a while. Don't think I'm ready for the Chinese stuff. I know some of there stuff is ok and getting better, but I haven't had much luck with it. Who knows... have to figure it out soon.

Can't seem to find anyone who sells HTP this side of the border.
 
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