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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking at a '71 Honda CB 750 K Its from a cycle salvage shop and they want $500. Its missing the handle bars the points and some little bits and pieces. The bike ran right up until they pulled the points out of it. I havn't seen it hence no pics. But I should be by the place again wednesday at the latest. (They have to bring it in from the lot.

Just figureed to get some opinions on the bike as a bike, I know the rep that comes with a CB750, but what does the K stand for? What should i look out for?

I'll get some pics up ASAP.
 

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quote:Originally posted by Cataldo

The bike ran right up until they pulled the points out of it.
Did they mention that they took the points out of it 7 years ago? What did they do with the points, sell 'em? Gee, I wonder if it'll start right up when you put the new points back in...
Not being harsh, it's just the fourth great lie. Let me know if you need help with the first three.


FR
 

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quote:Originally posted by Cataldo

The bike ran right up until they pulled the points out of it.
Did they mention that they took the points out of it 7 years ago? What did they do with the points, sell 'em? Gee, I wonder if it'll start right up when you put the new points back in...
Not being harsh, it's just the fourth great lie. Let me know if you need help with the first three.


FR
 

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ok, so the question is what is your expirence level? judging from the questions you are asking it doesn't sound like a lot so methinks this might be a big project for you.

$500 is cheap for any early cb750 (1969-1970 K0 or 1971-1972 K1-2)I can't imagine what a wreck this thing must be to be that cheap but in parts she is def worth at least that much provided there are useable parts on it. Heck if she has a title (she does have a title right?) the frame and running motor are worth that. I have rebuilt a couple of cb750s, owned them for a decade, and currently have 6 so a 1971 for $500 in any condition is worth it to me, to you on the otherhand, maybe not so much.

The only thing you would have going for you is that parts for cb750s are plentiful.

why don't you get some pics and post them here. these "is it worth it?" inquiries are useless with out pics.

K bike denotes the model. CB750k's are standards: chrome front and rear fender, disc front/drum rear, classic looking bikes. CB750F's are supersports: longer breadbox tank, boattail seat, rear disc brake. CB750A's are automatics, look like K bikes but they have a two speed slush box auto. check out www.sohc4.net for pics of all of them.
 

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ok, so the question is what is your expirence level? judging from the questions you are asking it doesn't sound like a lot so methinks this might be a big project for you.

$500 is cheap for any early cb750 (1969-1970 K0 or 1971-1972 K1-2)I can't imagine what a wreck this thing must be to be that cheap but in parts she is def worth at least that much provided there are useable parts on it. Heck if she has a title (she does have a title right?) the frame and running motor are worth that. I have rebuilt a couple of cb750s, owned them for a decade, and currently have 6 so a 1971 for $500 in any condition is worth it to me, to you on the otherhand, maybe not so much.

The only thing you would have going for you is that parts for cb750s are plentiful.

why don't you get some pics and post them here. these "is it worth it?" inquiries are useless with out pics.

K bike denotes the model. CB750k's are standards: chrome front and rear fender, disc front/drum rear, classic looking bikes. CB750F's are supersports: longer breadbox tank, boattail seat, rear disc brake. CB750A's are automatics, look like K bikes but they have a two speed slush box auto. check out www.sohc4.net for pics of all of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Geeto67, Thats what i was realy wondering about, was the K identification. The points were just recently pulled, So i was told, I know. I have restored Cars and been working one Bikes. I have completely built a '73 Camaro so i have the abilities, the machining i know a guy who does all the bells and whistles for Motorcycles. My knowledge base is in Muscle cars and Hot rods, not Motorcycles, so i was really wondering if The base model was a good bike. Form what you said i think it is, it still has the things that made the CB 750 special. I am going to see it today, so I will be sure to post some pics of it.
 

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from 1969 to 1974 there was only one cb750 --> the K bike. The k bike was so iconic that they elected to keep it in 1975 and create another different cb750 for those people who were on the fence between it and a KZ900. a 1969-1976 cb750K IS the bike to have in the realm of the cb750s (even though the 77-78 supersports were faster with better brakes).

The cb750 engine is an anvil. If you have decent compression, thow a set of points in there and see if you get spark. If you do, run her the way it is. I try not to tear these motors down if I don't have to because it is a bitch. Most of my cb750s had not run in 5 years when I got them and they run just fine now. One of them had not run in 10 years so I oil primed the motor before I fired her up and she runs great. I even had one that sat for 15 years before I started her again and that bike ran fine too. long storage doesn't hurt these engines as long as they were stored inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The tank is in decent shape, paint is pealing, no cap but the inside is very good shape, no rust, just dusty. The seat is in pretty decent shape, sit able. Has good compression kicked over fairly smoothly. 4-1 exhaust that has a bad rust hole at the bottom of the tip. Front brake lever has nothing to it, probably no fluid. didn't see much rust at all. Has clean title with pink. Last registered in '00 last owner change in '95. The carbs have gummed up and are stuck, and that is my concern. Front rotor is pretty smooth, no ridge. Roles smoothly goes into and out of gear just fine. Tires are plenty good to roll on. Has key. Has Battery. It is a '71 but was purchased July '70.

Oh and the Oil smelled and looked good. And I am going to get it for $450
 

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taht it an unusual exhaust, I think it might be an RC header. I'll have to look at mine when I get home. If you buy it and don't want the exhaust I'll take it off your hands.

missing the caliper but has the bracket which is good (they changed the fork desing in 1973).

there is a lot on that bike that is shot but the foundation for a project is there. Try to talk them down a little - looks like a $350-$400 project to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I am going to try and get some more pieces for it and stay at $450. Thanks for noticing the caliper. I'll try and get the gas cap the caliper and anything else. I figure to go through and replace much of it anyway.
 

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the only super expensive parts on that bike that you don't have are the sidecovers (usually $100). Other than that the cap and the caliper should cost you $20 online.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I wasn't planning on running the side covers really. Step 1 is getting it to run. Points plugs plug wires carb clean starting fluid battery should have it fire. I saw a few sets of rebuild kits for all 4 carbs for a good bit. From there it is down hill.
 

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a few bits of advice re: cb750s:

1) there is no changing plug wires. Stock coils have the wires soldered internally and sealed in so in order to change the plug wire you need to change the coil too. Usually most people run them until the coil burns out and then replace with aftermarket (like dyna or accel). There is a trick where you can snip the old wire (or drill into the coil) and splice in new wire but you will still have that small section of old wire acting as a bottleneck. Unless there is anything physically wrong with the old plug wires, leave them alone and focus instead on the wires going into the coil from the points, because of the heat and location they tend to work loose and sometimes corrode at the contacts.

2) Carb rebuild. Before you plunk down hard earned on a set of carb rebuild kits, know that you will not use any of the hard parts (jets, needles, floats, etc) from any of the aftermarket kits. The stuff is junk and is always out of tolerance (leads to leaky carbs). They are good to buy for the gaskets but that is about it. When you tear down the carbs, take a look at the stock honda stuff, usually you can reuse all the needles and jets after a good hard soak in carb dip. The onyl piece that usually needs replacement is the float needle, if it has a serious ridge worn into the point or the spring in the back of the plunger is shot then you will need a new one. Honda sells those parts individually, so if you just need a needle, you can get one without buying a whole other kit.

3) check the fuse box for corrosion. it is on the left side of that bike next to the starter relay. If the back of the box is corroded then you will just continually blow fuses and not get the bike to start. wiggle the contacts for the fuses and make sure they are not loose - as they corrode they heat up, melt the plastic and become loose. Once they are loose they migrate toward each other and once they touch the bike drops dead.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks, that saves me some head scratchin'. What kind of plug do you recomend? stick with NGK?
 

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NGK is fine. NGK D8ES-L, NDX 24ES. It is not a commonly stocked plug so I buy whatever I can find. Two of my bikes have splitfires in them because I was at a swap meet and a guy there had splitfires for $2 a set of 4 so I bought all the ones he had for cb750s.

make sure you squirt oil in the bores and turn it over a few times before you start it, that way the rings don't score the cyl wall.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Pretty standard stuff. I pick the bike up Wednesday I'll post some more pictures of it if i find something unusual.
 
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