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Discussion Starter #21
UMM, THE "WAR BIRD" BIKE IS FOR SALE
TOOK THIS OFF THE NET AFTER AND EASY SEARCH ABOUT THE "WAR BIRD" I USED AS AN EXAMPLE....
LINK --- Bobber Cafe Racer Honda Goldwing WAR BIRD

Description
This is a very nice example of a customized Goldwing. 1987 GL1200 Goldwing Interstate model. Now customized as the War Bird. Bike was always kept in service up until the time of transformation. Last mechanical service was the usual oil. filter and plugs. Also. timing belts were replaced. This bike is serious. Back in 2002. I bought a new Bandit 1200 and had the shop re-jet and install a Yoshimura pipe. I would say that this Goldwing matches its power exactly. and I believe it would also have an advantage on top end. Bike has been pared down to a scant 484 lbs. . which means fun and fast. I don't mean to overplay the performance. but when considering a stock Goldwing over this one. the fun factor far exceeds a stock Goldwing's original performance. I have included in pics some other Goldwings that I have customized. They were all done around the same idea of less weight. more horsepower. This Goldwing has many upgraded bits that you would appreciate. Vintage styled headlight with high/low beam. Horn is new replacement. It is mounted up front. hidden from view. but not blocked as to affect the decibel output. Both levers and perches are new hydraulic with 1 thru 6 adjusters. Both are set on 4. Feels very comfortable. but that is an individual's determination. Tires are Dunlop sport/touring. Front is a 130. which used to be the size for the rear on the older Goldwings. and rear is a fat 170. That is the absolute biggest tire I could fit. Looks very good from the back. Bike has many electrical upgrades. Also running a K&N air filter. Valve covers have been shaved and painted with a durable texture coat. Running vintage aftermarket plug wires with new NGK caps. Solo seat is new replacement. Front forks are air driven. Rear shocks are air assist with S&W springs. Very nice set-up. Currently running 15 psi up front and 20 psi in the back. Is working out very good for around town riding. New War Bird tail light with pulsating brake light. Ignition is mounted to the left of the bike. as seen in one of the pics. It is of the car type. Just turn the key to start. and release. Also. near the key to the left is the air inlet for the rear shocks. It has a Magnum tumbler cover. Front fork air valves are individual. Gas tank is painted with a matte black and orange. War Bird emblem is vinyl. Can be left as is or easily taken off. Pretty much. as you can see. there has been a lot of time and attention to detail. Not a show bike. Never meant to be. Just looks good. I'm sure there are some details that I may have missed. If you have any questions. please feel free to ask. COMES WITH CLEAR TITLE AND SIGNED BILL OF SALE. Winning bidder has 30 days to arrange pick-up. If new owner needs more time. please contact us. We will easily work something out. Bike will be stored safely indoors.

Also published at eBay.com
 

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One good bump and that swingarm is going to bend like nobody's business. It's been a while since I've taken statics/dynamics, but the force being applied at the point where the shocks mount to the swingarm is wayyyy higher than what it would be if they were mounted at the axle.
Even if the swingarm has been braced enough, you're now looking at the forces being applied to the seat mount, which looks like it will snap right off the backbone of the frame if enough force is applied to the back wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
at this point im really just at the most preliminary stages of anything... i still have high hopes... this is a good thing and i am only excited about whats possible...
 

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Copy what randakk did on his monster GL. Can't go wrong with that
 

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at this point im really just at the most preliminary stages of anything... i still have high hopes... this is a good thing and i am only excited about whats possible...

well the first thing is do not spend money on anything until you can verify that the bike overasll is in excellent mechanical condion
if you cant get it running with fresh fuel and a good battery then be ready to spend a thousand or 2 to get it on the road
like has been said everything that is rubber needs replacing all you can hope for is an engine and drivetrain in perfect working condition because the rubber bits and friction materials are gonna be well north of 600
just to get it on the road
find somebody that is into these wings and sell it at a loss if you must and just walk away
you are not really a moron but are if you do not move on
if you want a cafe racer possible bike to modify ,get a running simple bike a single cylinder 2 stroke is a great one to learn how to tune.... get a good running one or 2 or three of the same one as parts bikes for spares
as long as it is stock
find something like a dt250/360/400 yamaha
simple to work on and once running and safe easily can be made quick on the road even capable of vintage roadracing
albeit the rotax powered canam has by far the best 2 stroke single engine ever made
the rotary valve kawasaki 2t singles can be quite quick as well

a man has got to be aware of his limitations
get some old mc magazines from the 60's and 70's and read them pay attention to any tuning shit
peterson publications is one to get
kid you need to read and soak up some common sense tech


 

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HellO ALL!!!

Now I have some real questions about backfiring. It seems to be happening on the cylinder bank on the right-hand side (when sitting on the bike). Also, a gurgling hesitation during early throttle turn (especially when cold) and YES,,,, Overheating - the electric fan doesn't kick on. The overheating (bubbling into the reserve tank) scares me. More, I have to restore brakes. I've looked online for NEW calipers but I also noticed a lot of restoration kits with a new O-Ring and cylinder and I'm wondering which is the best way to go? Should I pull the calipers, pull the cylinders and replace the cylinder and ring - or do I have to see just how bad it is inside the caliper to know? Please understand I am seeking the CHEAPEST options where possible. The Poor in Jay"Poor"Jay aint just in jest, lol...

You need to pull apart the calipers and M/C. Clean and inspect them carefully for corrosion in the important areas. Then you will know if you only need the rubber bits or perhaps pistons. or you need to spend some real money. Before you spend money on anything you need to sort out the bubbling in the overflow tank. That should scare you. Probably why the thing was parked in the first place. Leaking head gasket? Frozen and cracked? It is absolutely pointless to spend any money until you figure out what is going on there. It is possible the backfiring is related, but you can worry about that after you finish worrying about the bubbling and overheating.
 

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has anyone actually seen a swingarm like that bend or crack? i'm just curious, because it just looks like a disaster waiting to happen, but i wonder how long it takes to go to shit in use.
 

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has anyone actually seen a swingarm like that bend or crack? i'm just curious, because it just looks like a disaster waiting to happen, but i wonder how long it takes to go to shit in use.
I don't think the bend would be obvious. I think it would bend in a way that the driveshaft would rub against the swingarm tube... That would probably put a lot of stress on both ends of the driveshaft and lead to eventual (catastrophic?) failure
 

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See the danger here :|

... that empty hole below the brake caliber is suppose to have a lower shock and spring mount attached to it, now the entire motorcycle is being carried on 4 bolts,
4 bolts that are much smaller then the four bolts holding the rim on :| he has created a perfect scenario for catastrophic failure, it won't bend the bolt heads will shear off and bye-bye rear wheel.

Granted the Honda has 2 arms so self destruct Might give a little more warning and wiggle a few times before you are riding the hard parts.
 

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I wouldn't say those GL's as they come stock have a problem in the handling department. They are what they are... but if I had one and wanted it to be more stable and forgiving in the corners while acting like a fool, I would want to add some bracing/gussets around the swing arm pivot points and also on the swingarm itself. I believe that is where a lot of the flexing comes from. The tube on the swingarm (the one the drive shaft passes through) has some internal bracing, at least the earlier ones did and it could probably use some external bracing. It's not so much the swingarm itself (in those photos) that scares me, it's the fact that support for the swingarm pivots has been severely compromised by hacking the rear of the frame off. Having an "oh shit" moment in the middle of a curve and backing off the throttle can sometimes make one of those things shake in its stock form. Probably the closest I've ever come to meeting my maker. You wouldn't get me on one of those abortions.
 

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has anyone actually seen a swingarm like that bend or crack? i'm just curious, because it just looks like a disaster waiting to happen, but i wonder how long it takes to go to shit in use.
really the more serious issue is it was built by a fucking moron
the ujointn angle is quite severe and that may fail may not but that is nothing compared to the extremely hoigh starting leverage ratio of the rear swingarm and shock geometry
it is a completerly 100% un-workable design/geometry
look at it again see how the mounts on the swinger are not far from centerline of swinger
and then of course the way lent forward cant
i have an advasntage over most,i can see exactly what is going on in my head
the lower shock mount moves in a strictly vertical radius ,indeed itb almost moves nuetral to any shock compression action for a long bit
this is astronomical leverage i do not know how but those s7w springs are probably preloadedv to fucking the moon
and look at the absence of spring seats at the shock eye !
the load on the spring is trying to blow up the coils fer fukss sake
yes the angle of the shock like that can be seen in many modern designs
however they all have the swingarm shock mount a good distance above centerline
the further above centerline the more the action is going in the direction needed to compress the shock FORWARD
the thing is these are extremely basic principles that are not hard to grasp,are they ?
the kaw versys is a perrferct example of the facts i layed dowen ,lol get it layed down ?
while at first glance you may say looking at the versys that i am verbally vomitting horseshit but i only deal with hard facts and principles of physics ,objects in motion,gravity and leverage and what not
and i barely finished fucking high school
drawv a line from swinger pivot to rear axle see how far above this line is below shock mount?
THIS ENABLES AND DICTATES THE NEED FOR THE FORWARD ANGLE


LYNCHING TO DEATH WOULD NOT BE TOO SEVERE FOR THOSE THAT ENABLE BY PROMOTION AND BUILD THESE GRIM REAPER RIDES
bobber-cafe-racer-honda-goldwing-war-bird-1.JPG
 

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See the danger here :|

... that empty hole below the brake caliber is suppose to have a lower shock and spring mount attached to it, now the entire motorcycle is being carried on 4 bolts,
4 bolts that are much smaller then the four bolts holding the rim on :| he has created a perfect scenario for catastrophic failure, it won't bend the bolt heads will shear off and bye-bye rear wheel.

Granted the Honda has 2 arms so self destruct Might give a little more warning and wiggle a few times before you are riding the hard parts.
That's a G/S swing arm. The shock actually mounted forward of the final drive on Dakars and certain G/S. What you're seeing is a combo R100 or R80 final drive with a G/S monolever converted to run a R1100RS rear shock. It's a pretty common swap and often done exactly the way you see it there...

6c45af8738ab2aeedf3261129da56773.jpg
 

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I don't think the bend would be obvious. I think it would bend in a way that the driveshaft would rub against the swingarm tube... That would probably put a lot of stress on both ends of the driveshaft and lead to eventual (catastrophic?) failure
good point. the horrid vibration it'd lead to would probably make the new owner aware there was something wrong with the masterpiece of motorcycling he'd purchased.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Thanks Brad. I'm aware of the difference between an overheat and a cracked head causing bubbles or oil in the coolant. This ain't that. It was running hot... The cooling fan is not kicking in and I need to know what to start chasing to sort that out...

Also, if ya can say, how resilient are the calipers? If the pistons have kinda seized up,,, and I need to replace them,,, in your experience,,, how often is it just pulling the old pistons and replacing with new pistons and sealing rings?

The bike runs and idles well. Is in good shape. Has sat a while but only has 12k miles. Certainly needs a tune up. Me,,, I'm optimistic and excited!
 

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ok besides what i have already mentioned this dicklick that builds this wartird crap has got around 15'' of rear wheel travel
a completely insane thing to try to manage
in fact this idiot is completely unaware of how much wheel travel he has built in or even what the term relates to

which after watching the videos he is trying tom control with extreme spring rates and preload
let me put itth is way if an engineering and design school had a golden cup prise for the mostly poorly developed most insanely wrong non working rear suspension that completely violates and ignors proven simple principles of mechanical devices and basic physics
war turd would win hands down
 

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That's a G/S swing arm. The shock actually mounted forward of the final drive on Dakars and certain G/S. What you're seeing is a combo R100 or R80 final drive with a G/S monolever converted to run a R1100RS rear shock. It's a pretty common swap and often done exactly the way you see it there...
No it's not, it's the rear hub and wheel off a K100 or K75 and that big empty hole is where the single lower shock mounts and at one time that shock was directly in line with the axle.
 

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That's a G/S swing arm. The shock actually mounted forward of the final drive on Dakars and certain G/S. What you're seeing is a combo R100 or R80 final drive with a G/S monolever converted to run a R1100RS rear shock. It's a pretty common swap and often done exactly the way you see it there...

View attachment 95925
that swingarm was/is a single sidded unit so it must withstand including that 4 bolt mating with the fd
it must withstand the offset twisting loading that a wheel on a spindle rather than an axle ,imparts no matter where the shock is mounted
the shock mounting does nothing to fight the twisting forces
that 4 bolt joint if it is not wallerd is tremendously strong and will not break off with a shock mounted forward of it
nor will the tube bend
that ssswa is massively more stout than if you tokk an earlier twinshock arm and left off the opposite side
it has to be and is not something a company like bmw would put in production without at least a 2-3x beyond normal average loads safety factor,before a cata event
i mean having something right on the edge,to where a cata event spells dead people ,well,that dog dont hunt
ffs there are large airplane engines mounted with just 3 or 4 -5/16'' dia bolts
 

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Guys, that oversized rim and sticky radial is held on by 4 X 12mm lug bolts and the entire rear drive on K bike drives modified in this manor are completely relying on with 4 X 10mm bolts in a small bolt circle. You have a lot more confidence in BMW over-engineering then you should, it's not going to fail when it's just sitting there or putting around, it is going to fail under the worst possible circumstances.
 
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