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you do not understand how massively the overengineered safety factor applies to automotive type wheel fixings on a motorcycle
they have got to be able to not cata fail with half the nuts missing and the others loose ,dontcha know
you do realize that them nascar race cars rarely have half the nuts tight
2 is enough if they are not neaighbors
 

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Discussion Starter #42
A series type reg/rec should sort this issue out. Good ones cost in the range of $80 - $150.
Hey Irk...

Dropped in a new Battery and I am getting 14.5 volts at the battery... The stall without jumpers was solved with this... What do you think about that? Good, bad, soso? Seems like a good sign...

I think I will keep moving forward... she runs, I took it easy but was moving her around under her power when i took the pic. def have some brake work to do,,, which will be next. need to figure out how to get the DAMN cooling fan to engage when the temp gets high enough... any suggestions in your experience?

latest pic https://imgur.com/9ABh5yP
 

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Have you tested the thermostat? That's where I would look first, if the fan isn't coming on. If you can get the fan to work by directly hooking up power to it, then you know the trigger, ie thermostat, is the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Hmm. Maybe Ill just replace the thermo all together for good measure... By test do you mean by applying heat with it out of the housing or is there a way to test, that you know of, in situ?

Looks like I can get the thermo AND the switch for around $40 bucks... I think it good practice to replace these sorts of things anyways on a project where LOTS is unknown...
 

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It's not uncommon for the thermo switch that controls the fan to go bad. You have to remove the rad to get to it to test it, so not a bad idea to replace it. A lot of guys install a toggle and run their fan manually.
 

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Also, Honda is pretty notorious for setting the temperature switch towards the too hot end of the thermometer...not good for those summertime traffic jambs...I think the VFR guys found that a Civic switch swaps right in and turns the fan on at a much lower temperature
 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
Hey Man,,, Thanks! I've read a little bit about the toggle,,, and pulling the rad to get to the switch. I'll do all that,,, and do some tests to see what all the he'll is going in. The fear for me with the manual switch is I don't think I will have a temp measure that I have figured out,,,, yet. In that case I think I would prefer an auto something. Now that makes me nervous, lol... Maybe I will HAVE to have a temp gauge...something!

EDIT --- A civic switch ya say,,,, hmm. Interesting interesting. Learning lots from you good people. Thank you for that! Have an exampke off the net so i dont end up witht the wrong thing?
 

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Sorry, I don't know the details...I just mentioned it because it is very likely there are alternatives. Automotive temperature switches are generally fairly standardized.
 

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Hey Man,,, Thanks! I've read a little bit about the toggle,,, and pulling the rad to get to the switch. I'll do all that,,, and do some tests to see what all the he'll is going in. The fear for me with the manual switch is I don't think I will have a temp measure that I have figured out,,,, yet. In that case I think I would prefer an auto something. Now that makes me nervous, lol... Maybe I will HAVE to have a temp gauge...something! ...
Installing a manual fan switch is super easy, you just wire a switch in parallel with the existing fan control, it only has 2 wires unless it is relay controlled and then you still just have 2 wires to worry about, they just have to be the correct wires.

Operating the fan manually has little to no danger associated with it, other then the additional current draw a fan blowing on the radiator will never cause your motor to run too cool to operate. I've installed manual fan switches on some trials bikes so that the fan did not kick on when I'm in the middle of a section, when that happens the idle speed drops because of the extra load on the alternator and that can cost a stall in a section. Engine over-heating is far more likely to be a thermostat failure (which is a valve), a water pump failure or a blockage inside the radiator.
... you know what to do if you are stranded in the middle of nowhere because you have a thermostat crap out :/ you remove it completely, reassemble and now your coolant will flow constantly.
 

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Before you go hacking into the wiring loom, try testing the thermo switch and see if it works. Assuming you can remove it, check resistance across the terminals or if it has one terminal, between that and the body of the switch. On most that would be OPEN ie infinite resistance. Then stick it into a pot of water and heat it to boiling and see if it changes to CLOSED just as the water boils. If you can measure water temperature, so much the better. It will probably open at 95-98 degrees. Check the FSM to be sure of the way it's wired and the temp it is supposed to open.

If it is designed to open above 100C or it fails to open, you could take it to your local auto parts store and find one with the same threads that is designed to open at a slightly lower temperature.

If the thermo switch works to spec, next step is to check the wiring. Here's a thread on it. https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=26727

Here's a replacement switch https://www.ebay.com/itm/Thermo-Radiator-Cooling-Fan-Thermostat-Switch-For-Honda-GL1000-GL1100-GL1200/112134199499?fits=Model:Goldwing+1200|Make:Honda&epid=627828356&hash=item1a1bb818cb:g:IUAAAOSwLF1X11lW
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
Hey Trails...

My fear lies in the fact that in my WILDEST dreams I wasn't planning on having a temp gauge... I really was hoping to eliminate as many gauges, bells and whistles as possible. Again, this is all in my imagination, which now doesnt seem like such a good idea - in terms of the temp indicator. I will need and should have something indicating running temps - I think. I still have a lot of researching to do as far as the technology that can be/is packed into todays modern gauge. Can I get a "N" light, MPH, a TACH and a Temp indicator (of some sort) all packed into one gauge? Directionals too, maybe? High beams? Oil Pressure? I'll ave to look around for the best product I can find. Honestly,,, I dont even want the extra toggle switch on the bars.

Still, without a gauge I wouldnt know when to turn it on (or off for that matter)... At this stage, I'm by no means a "performance" guy, so I dont think it would make tooooo crazy if the fan kicked in and I dropped power. Thank you James and Teaser - BOTH for your suggestions and clarity. For offering your experience! Lots is getting baked into the cake - already. Lots of COOL decisions to make.
 

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Do you have a factory service manual?

Is your rad cap any good?

Is there just an airlock in there?

Is your gauge reading hot or are you just going by the percolating overflow tank?

Do you know how to fill it with coolant? You have to fill the rad, top up the overflow tank and then heat cycle the engine a few times while making sure the level in the overflow tank remains above the low limit.

You really need to shelve your cake decorating ideas until you figure out if you can afford to keep this thing. That might make me sound like a dick, but if you are on a limited budget then #1 item on the list is a factory manual. #2 is reading the manual. Keep in mind they were written for a journeyman tech.
 

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Discussion Starter #54 (Edited)
Hey thanks Cy

I have a Haynes and Clymer on the way...

I've check all that you asked and it still over heats... You don't sound like a kcid at all. Good pointers.

Both. Gauge WAS reading hot (I've removes the front fairing) and it was bubbling...

What's an air lock? An air bubble or blockage...

Nothing can be harder than topping up a 1990 XJS V12, lol

The over flow tank is just under the "high" mark. It's never lost fluid when it starts to bubble. I shut it down first. The fluid expands then it settles to the same level in the overflow,,, just below high... Yes, there maybe an air bubble but this has happened twice, maybe three times and I woulda thought it would have passed. The seal on the cap seems tight/fine - but you know how these things can be. It's over heating... I plan to tear into the fixes mentioned by all y'all and then go on to the next thing(sss).

Its all good. So far so good. I'm stoked.
 

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Just so you know and hopefully you never have this problem;
a head gasket leak between the cylinder and the water jacket will cause engine compression to leak into your cooling system.


.... but it's a pretty easy fix and not the worst thing that could happen
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Is a motorcycle different? I've changed cylinder heads on cars (The XJS) and other tell tale signs that you have a problem with the CHGasket are oil and water, coolant, mixed in all the wrong places... Will/would I see the same thing here? On a bike?
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Cool. Good to know... Believe me,,, I'll be reporting back, priming the group for info as I go along. Going to tinker now while I still have a little sunlight... Thanks so much
 

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You won't necessarily get oil in the coolant or vice versa. It is possible for combustion gases to get into the cooling jacket without any other real signs. You might be able to get an indication if coolant is getting into the combustion chamber by looking at the plugs.
You also need to make sure (once you have sorted it out) that you fill it with the correct mix of coolant. They do not like any more than a 50/50 mix. Any more than 50/50 the coolant's ability to draw heat out of the engine decreases. Same as if you put too much in your Civic and then wonder why you are freezing your ass off in winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
For the gurgling and hesitation at throttle, I think I may have a stuck float,,, the stopper or plug attached to the float may be pinned and gummed up at closed (sorry, I forget the name of the pin thing)... Thinking it's the float in the front right hand quarter.... Any neat tricks at unsticking that pin without major surgery,,, for now???

Soon, I wanna remove the carb body, replace jets and clean, all rubber rings and gaskets, but for now I kinda wanna just know what might be going on of and where possible.

Remember, it only clocked 12k miles but sat a while.
 
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