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Discussion Starter #1
Which if these would you rank first in order of importance when considering a front end?

yes, I know that they're all important. Just play the game ok?
:D
 

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I am picking rotating mass in this game. reducing your rotating mass is reducing your unsprung weight. lighter wheels, rotors and even tires, those items are all unsprung.
 

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FWIW, I'll agree with Tyler. It's probably the quickest easiest change you can make. Probably.


FR
 

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it would be nice if it were that simple

it is possible

that one can actually change to a lighter wheel yet have more forces generated by the rotating mass

if this is about picking a front end, get one that will do the job

UPS forks have less unsprung weight than comparable conventionals....... usually and probably always
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nah.. I've got a stock CB750 front end and a GL1000 front end.

The GL has a steel 3" rim.
The CB has a shouldered aluminum rim.

it's s toss up between dual discs and single. 37mm fork tubes vs 35 mm.

plus more trail from the GL front end due to less offset in the trees.
 

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The lightest (looking) set up that i have seen is several members here have laced up motocross style excel wheels and spokes. if you are looking for light and strong wheels, the motocrossers have that covered. as far as your trail, we all know these aren't modern super bikes. to change your trail you might want to call around in the flattracking world and get a set of adjustable trees. i have a set on my dirt tracker (with R6 forks) but they make them for vintage bikes with 34 and 35mm forks. A&A racing, WEISS (sp?), there are several people who make them. If you aren't familiar with them, they use different cups in them and you can changed them very quickly to match track conditions. PLUS...they are billet aluminum, reducing weight...but it is sprung weight. if you'd like a picture of my adjustables, i could provide such over the weekend. another thing in handling is rider and motor position. even a full tank of fuel changes handling. good luck in your quest!!
 

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My vote is for weight first also. Go with the lightest tire and rim you can use, decent but reasonable weight brake. Remember, reducing tire/rim weight reduces rotating AND unsprung weight. (I use the aforementioned Excel rims, Dunlop tires and a T500 brake...tire/rim is probably 5 lbs less than an OEM setup...and that's all unsprung, rotating mass).

With the rake on most vintage bikes in the area of 30 degrees I don't worry about trail unless there is some stability problems, too much head shake etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
the Gl front end on a K frame has about 3&3/4" of trail, but it's a heavy wheel.

I figure I'll use the CB front end.
 

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have you weighed any of the stuff?

amazing is that the larger diameter stuff is seemingly made of better materials and typically has much thinner walls

I think the 35mm cb tubes are around 0.185" wall...... have some in the shop but I recall they are HEAVY and frail

whereas the 42's on one of my bikes seems to be around 0.060" wall, maybe less

the 42 set is much lighter than even a Brit 33.5mm fork set
 

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tapered steering bearings (so you can tighten them down and still get smooth steering) and one of those NHK steering stabilizers will solve your head shaking problems, well, as long as your frame is straight.
 

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at the risk of sounding like i don't care about weight (which i do...i road race bicycles as well as vintage bikes), i think the behavior of a front end and therefore a large portion of a bikes handling character, is most effected by trail. a bike can go from handling like a pig, to stable, to nimble/"light", and finally to twitchey/unstable all with changes to trail.
-parks
 
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