bitchen bike !!It actually has a front fender now. Had to get some different fork lowers to fit the fender under the Tarozzi fork brace. the heretical Anachronism front brake is a guilty pleasure of mine. It stops easily as well as the original disc. New linings and shoes helped.
The swing arm is actually a modern copy of a 70's part (Calfab). Chris Redpath (MotoGPwerks) made it. Follow that guy.
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arcing the shoes is great but it doesnt address the point i was makingNice idea but its a standard Gt750J brake, it weights a tonne and isn't much good. A couple of big tugs on the lever to get it nice and hot, the 3rd tug will see it fade and you planted into the back of 3 tonne SUV. The Honda brake in good nick with dual carbon pads will perform ok time after time or just double disc with Honda standard equipment with modified leg mounting bracket or buy the correct casting from Bernie Saunders. I guess its about the look if so the are far better 4ls out there.
A TLS brake is best set up in a lathe, set the shoes sitting at rest on the cams, measure the drum then shim the shoes equally to achieve the drum measurement on the shoes linings - where exactly on the linings will dictate how fast the brake comes on. Spin up at slow speed and machine the linings so all is square/centralised on the spindle and the lead edge is the same on both shoes, file the lead edge to prevent grabbing. Remove and fit the link rod adjusted correctly. Simple.
Pretty bike though.
yes yes i understand exactly how to do the age old procedureJust buy a brake that's well made. Over time stuff wears but you still need to baseline the brake plate, cams and shoes before you start playing with tie rod adjustment. One also needs to consider how the brake shoe attach to the plate, non leading edge Norton for example have a pivot pin but Triumph / BSA do not so self centre.
I understand your point completely by the way and there is definitely a "touch" required when adjusting for equal shoe lift for me its just a couple of spanners on the pivot nuts pushing the shoes into contact with the drum (equal pressure) and adjust the tie rod accordingly understanding any wear in the clevis joints.
I have built more race machines and I mean race machines not parlour pooches than I care to remember. Please don't presume to know my work practices or experience level, whether I test ride a bike or not. No theorising, no wondering just lots of practical experience.yes yes i understand exactly how to do the age old procedure
but you are still missing the point you cannot in the shop static tell if the shoes are still getting equal force applied in hard braking the brake i applied the final tweak on was in very good condition
i back off (shorten the link rod) and then using cable housing adjusters bring in the "main shoe "is what i call it until there is drag pull the lever to add force and if the drag still there then lengthen the link rod to achieve "about" double the amount of drag on the linked shoe
pull the lever hard make sure there is no change
curiosity had been knawing at me and on one long downhill twisty road brake all warmed up i stopped and went maybe half turn longer on link rod
get back on and ride and it was noticably better very noticable
tried a full turn and that didnt make much more improvement so i kept it there ..
little 160mm drum on the sl350 and stoppies were doable after that
so i know it can work was just wondering if you had an open mind to try it sometime
maybe you dont test ride the machines you work on at all
curently i am not using a tls i went to an iron disc off a husky for the 350
all single cam drum brakes have one leading shoe and there is a way to make the trailing shoe do a bit more work
yamaha came up with the idea and applied it one year model on the yz250 but then went tls the next year
that wouldn't bother me in the leastI have built more race machines and I mean race machines not parlour pooches than I care to remember. Please don't presume to know my work practices or experience level, whether I test ride a bike or not. No theorising, no wondering just lots of practical experience.
You should try setting one of these up you might just blow a gasket.
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