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Here is my 1965 Honda 305 Superhawk. I have had it since new. I have done all of the modifications and fabricated all of the body work, disk brakes and exhaust system myself.
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Not enough Norton Commandos on this site.

1973 850cc Norton Commando.

Just finished, you name it’s been done and few upgrades too.

Power plant fully rebuilt and now has a PW3 cam and flowed head, everything checked and end floats corrected. Engine is like new inside. Ignition upgraded to with micro mk4 Boyer and Andrews coil. Nice new set of roadster pipes from armours which in my option are the best off the shelf pipes you can get. Gearbox has a new full 5 speed Quaife cluster from **** Hemmings. Primary is belt kit from Bob Newby. Carbs are standard 32mm (Burlen) but flowed through and fuel heights matched, both breathing through a high flow K&N filter.
The chassis has new vernier isolastics and rose joint headsteady. The bike now has twin 300mm discs upfront, AP callipers and AP master cylinder. I’ve fitted 18” Excel valanced rims front (custom hub) and back (stock hub machined over) and a pair of custom Falcon alloy bodies rear shocks, I’ve also tweaked the front end damping a bit. I also got shot of all the switch gear and went minimal there’s just a horn push and a dip and main switch. The handle bars are forged alloy Renthal low rise superbike bars (2.5” rise) and home made rear-sets. All new bodywork including the Corbin smuggler Seat.

Rebuilt! More like remanufactured.

Hope you like it. BTW the colour is a candy orange.
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most everything i ride leaks oil
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very, very nice.

what do the vernier isolastics consist of? i've got a 70 roadster with the standard shim setup.

any modifications to the swing arm pivoting?
 

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Isolastics = Vernier type have a shaft which is threaded both ends and female counter parts which can be screwed on. You still have shims / washers. Basically one end is screwed on and fixed, the other can be turned in or out therefore adjusting end float then locked with grub screws in position. Adjustment can be done whilst the engine is in position, turn the adjuster until theres no end float than turn out about 1/8th of a turn or to preference. I have some customers who ride with no float and tightish isolastics. Shimming standard isolastics isn’t a small job and it’s a pain in the arse to do. The rose joint head-steady is a big improvement as it limits side movement but allows a little front and back, it’s acts a bit like Buell frame ties.

Swing arm pin is locked in position with a longer 1/4 bolt which screws through the gearbox cradle and locates into the pin so it doesn't turn - this bike hasn't suffered the problem of the pin moving so it was rebuilt almost as standard. I then fill the bearings with semi fluid grease (type used in early Burman gearboxes). I have in the past modified the cradle to positively locate the pin.

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Not enough Norton Commandos on this site.

1973 850cc Norton Commando.

Just finished, you name it’s been done and few upgrades too.

Power plant fully rebuilt and now has a PW3 cam and flowed head, everything checked and end floats corrected. Engine is like new inside. Ignition upgraded to with micro mk4 Boyer and Andrews coil. Nice new set of roadster pipes from armours which in my option are the best off the shelf pipes you can get. Gearbox has a new full 5 speed Quaife cluster from **** Hemmings. Primary is belt kit from Bob Newby. Carbs are standard 32mm (Burlen) but flowed through and fuel heights matched, both breathing through a high flow K&N filter.
The chassis has new vernier isolastics and rose joint headsteady. The bike now has twin 300mm discs upfront, AP callipers and AP master cylinder. I’ve fitted 18” Excel valanced rims front (custom hub) and back (stock hub machined over) and a pair of custom Falcon alloy bodies rear shocks, I’ve also tweaked the front end damping a bit. I also got shot of all the switch gear and went minimal there’s just a horn push and a dip and main switch. The handle bars are forged alloy Renthal low rise superbike bars (2.5” rise) and home made rear-sets. All new bodywork including the Corbin smuggler Seat.

Rebuilt! More like remanufactured.

Hope you like it. BTW the colour is a candy orange. View attachment 104157

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:geek: Look children, this is what a Real cafe racer type motorcycle looks like, notice it has not been completely stripped of functionality in a quest to build a lighter paper weight. (y) That's because jalsteve has knowledge about real live motorcycles and a talent for working on them and not just some picture on pipe burn to go by.

Yet another awesome ride jalsteve :cool:
 

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:geek: Look children, this is what a Real cafe racer type motorcycle looks like, notice it has not been completely stripped of functionality in a quest to build a lighter paper weight. (y) That's because jalsteve has knowledge about real live motorcycles and a talent for working on them and not just some picture on pipe burn to go by.

Yet another awesome ride jalsteve :cool:
Thanks.

Years ago when I started building specials I could not understand why there were always loads of Tritons for sale or Dominator based cafe racers. Speaking with a few guys we concluded that many build a “special” then ride it and hate it - their creation falling well short of the builders expectations so they dump it via eBay or similar. Their big mistake is they often build back in the underlying faults because they don’t know how to rectify problems or because they’ve spent all their budget on an alloy tank, alloy this and that, swept back pipes and clip-ons. Ergonomics are usually next to the battery which is impossible to get at!

All I try to do is build a bike that is comfortable to sit on and ride. That’s reliable (hopefully), stops and can take proper RPM if needed, not that anyone rides a bike at much more than 90mph without a fairing to hide behind it’s just too uncomfortable.

If you’ve ever ridden an RC30 it’s a perfect example, it doesn’t feel like an uncompromising race bike whereas the RC45 does.

So research the bike you going to work with and get to know it’s faults and how to fix them. Then when you have the core of the bike sound build it for the road.
 
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