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Discussion Starter #1
so after much time and effort I now have my cb360 to where it will crank usually on the 3rd or 4th kick and will idle. I think I need to put some MAJOR work into my carbs or just bite the bullet and buy new ones. still can't find air filters..... should I just buy the foam and custom cut it to the "mounts" that came iwth the bike?
 

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you can use some pod k&ns or unifilters. they probably wont even require rejetting.

you can get a set of mikunis for like 175 a set but then you'll need the cables dont forget.

joe
 

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fortunately you can still get 360 parts through honda....if you do go with the uni-pods or such be prepared to rejet...you may not need to but be prepared to, remember if you want to change one thing you will nedd to change at least three other things to get it to work properly.....you can find rebuild kits on ebay, if you just want to get new carbs you can get them through honda for around $200 or so.....good luck with it i got one i'm working on as well....

"Ride Fast and Take Chances"
 

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all of thats true. i know with my 350, with free flowing pipes, and no airfilers, i upjetted one size on both jets, and it seems to run rich. but its better that way on the race bike since its wide open alot. you can buy carb baths from auto parts stores for about 25bucks. a gallon with a dip basket. 20 mins in one of those will clean em real good. be sure to pull all of the plastic and rubber out of them. that shit works great though. i dont remember if they use cv carbs or not. grab a rebuild kit, make sure the needles arent too worn, run the idle and air screws in all of the way, COUNTING how many times IN, and be sure to back them out the same when you put them back together.

good luck
j
 

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quote:you can get a set of mikunis for like 175 a set but then you'll need the cables dont forget.
Where I can I get them for that? I could use a set for my cb350 twin. I am considering either that or trying to find a set of OEM cheap, but haven't been too lucky with the OEM.
Also, I have a stock CB350 that I will probably be putting a shorty slip-on or something because my mufflers are shot. What jetting would be a good starting place? I probably will not be doing anytyhing to the engine unless it dies, then if I rebuild it, I will build it up a bit.
Sorry to hijack the post.

1973 CB350G or K5
1983 GPZ750
 

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try sudco.com

if youre running stock caarbs run 68's and 110's or 105's. ive seen them come with both. if youre running mikunis on a stock motor i dont know where to point you but sudco will know. there is a guide for tuning, but ive never had the patience and or time to figure it out. although aaron probably knows the book inside and out.

later
j
 

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Discussion Starter #7
so the foam is a a bad idea for the filter then? I think today since I don't have a ride to a parts store (sux) im going to take my brakes apart and check their condition. if you guys couldnt tell im REALLY new to this repair thing on engines.... more used to fixing electronics but I think I'm picking it up pretty quick. I'm moving back to a larger town soon and the Tech college offers a small engine repair course.... would this be helpful at all or no? I would like to go to the AMI but I'm not really sure if I would be able to for various reasons. thanks guys. stupid question is the carb bath stuff called just that? and I'm guessing all I would need to do is take them off and remove the seals and do it? would I need to dismantle the carbs before bathing? thanks.
 

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smoke is a new one on me. is it just chuffing smoke?? or is it like a backfire through the carb? thats weird.

its usually called carb cleaner or parts cleaner. its usually sold in a gallon can. so you cant miss it.

if youre new to engine stuff, a small engine class certainly wont hurt. it'll teach you tha basics and also how to methodically trouble shoot problems. one thing ive noticed about when people are new at this is they dont know where to start looking for problems. ive seen guys chase problems all over, and not looking in the most obvious places first. so you'll learn where to start, and what to look for.

as for the carb cleaner, its some kind of a super toxic bath. it will eat anything thats not metal, and it even seems to eat that to an extent. it will make your carbs look brand new. if you leave any plastic at all in it, it'll kill it. when you go to reassemble them, use the rebuild kits.

there is also a book i recommend alot on these. its called motorcycle fundamentals, service and repair. its a text book. its by edmundson and johns. its a really good book. everyone should have it. its expensive, but good. i use it all of the time.

jc
 

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oh yeah, the exposed foam elements can suck water up if you dont oil them. that restricts airflow and can lead to no runny motor. then, they also attract dust because of the oil you have to put on them.

j
 

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Discussion Starter #11
was just just chuffing a bit. like *barely* visible I didnt notice it untill I was squatting on that side of the bike wiith it idling smoking a cigarette.
 

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thats probably normal then. i wouldnt worry. the gas is atomized and can probably move out of the carb as well as in. ive seen them smoke a bit after shutting them off. almost like a vapor.

j
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok so day before yesterday my idle was steady and fine.... didnt really fuck with anything that should affect it i dont think and yesterday the idel was REALLY erratic. Day 1 it was holding steady at about... 2100rpm but day2 it was jumping from 1600-1900 and cutting off and other such things. GRR.


idle screws?
 

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it doesnt sound like idle screws. you should really be idling at about 1200rpm. make sure there or no air/gas leaks. ive seen other bikes do that but its always been kind of unexplained. make sure the intakes are well sealed though. also make sure theres no shit in the bowls that would cause it to starve on one side. it could also be an ignition problem. like one side drops off, then picks up. check for lose plug wires.

just a guess from here though

j


j
 
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