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JD, If you've still got the photos around post them up here.

And lonewolf is having problems getting his mounted as well?

Craig
 

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I'm looking for the pics now... I went back through and found the thread I had going with Buff.. and to his defense he did try to help me but I never did have any luck and ran out of bandwidth to keep trying.

I will find the coils AND the single throw double pole kills switch.
Sorry for the large post but hear is the thread it might help Lone.
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See the problem buff is if you do mount it to the stator cover once the center is tighted onto the cam shaft the don't line up....

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THRacing to me

show details 4/25/06


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JD- It needs to be flipped 180 degrees. You will need to remove a small amount of material from 2 of the bolt bosses in order for the stator coil windings to clear. Takes 10 minutes with the dremel. At tis point however- I would prefer you just sent it to me so I can mount it for you. Dont't feel bad- the first time I tried this it took me a while to figure it out too..... and I apologize if I failed to mark the plate out and In like I usually do to avoid this confusion....

Buff

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JD to THRacing

show details 5/19/06


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Buff
I am at the track and trying to get my bike running. For the first
time and I am getting no spark from the right sides pick up. I have
changed plugs and tried every obvious do you have ANY words of wisdom
or suggestions???
Thanks JD

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THRacing to me

show details 5/21/06


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JD- sounds like maybe a bad gground or improper wiring of the kill switch. It requires a single throw double pole switch or else one side will be on and the other will be off. The instructions are pretty clear on this subject, I hope you read them because damage could occur otherwise.

Buff

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JD to THRacing

show details 7/24/06


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Hey Buff,
I have been out of the loop for a while and finally wanted to finish up the PVL install. I'm not having a ton of luck getting it timed correctly... I have it running by can't seem advance it enough to get any top end ( about 8-9k rpms )

I was hoping for two things... one any info/pointers on the timing and two can you send or fax me a copy of the installation directions... I lost my originals sometime between the last race and today.

Thanks JD
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JD to THRacing



- Show quoted text -
THRacing wrote:

jd- please tell me where you set the advance and how you went about it... i will walk you through it- it takes practice and patience.



I rotated the machined bracket to about 44 degrees advanced... and it would appear that I can't advance it any more since the hit starts to hit the oem mounting holes...
I'm at a loss... wear to go next...

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THRacing to me

show details 7/26/06


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OK- here we go. First off you will need to find dead nuts TDC with a dead stop with your degree wheel attatched. WHen you have successfully located TDC on the degree wheel, rotate the crank to 40 BTDC on the left cylinder. Make sure it is on the compression stroke not the exhaust!!!! Then (with the mounting plate in the middle of its adjustment put the rotor on the crankshaft making sure the taper and rotor are cleaned with contact cleaner) slide the rotor onto the crank with the alignment marks lining up from rotor to stator leg of the left cylinder. Your ignition is now set at 40 degrees BTDC and you have adjustment on either side to compensate after experimenting on the dyno. Hope this helps JD....

Buff
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Thanks Buff.... can you confirm for me that the dead stop I need is a 14 mm ?

Thanks JD
( Never got a response to the 14mm that I can find)
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J 'WTF' D
 

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The dead stop refers to the spark plug thread. I think it's 14mm but I'm not 100% sure on that.

Are you mounting the plate to the outer cover, the one that's got "Honda" on it? Or the side case cover? It should be the inner side case cover.

On this inner side case cover there are 6 tabs. There is one at the 12:00 position, the 2:00, the 4:00, the 6:00, 8:00 and 10:00 position. You need to take a dremmel and remove the tabs at the 2:00 and 8:00 positions. The mounting plate screws to the remaining 4 tabs. Now looking at the engine from the side you need to see the pickups mounted to the inside of the mounting plate. This allows you to screw the mounting plate to the outside of this side case cover. Once the pickups are mounted to the plate you won't be able to move them unless you remove this mounting plate from the cover.

The mounting plate should have slots in it. Mount the plate to the side cover so that the slots are as centered over the tabs as much as possible. This position is not critical at this point. Now turn your engine over, using a piston stop and a degree wheel, get the engine to 34 degrees BTDC. Don't let the engine turn at that point. Now mount the rotor to the crankshaft aligning the mark on the outer edge of the rotor with the mark on the pickup that is next to a "T". Tighten the rotor and recheck everything. At this point the engine should be timed to 34 degrees BTDC. If you want put the bike on the dyno and adjust the timing to get it running the best. At this point you adjust the timing with the four screws that mount the plate to the timing cover. Don't move the rotor anymore.

Does this help? This is what works for me there may be other better methods but this is how I do it.

Craig
 

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OK. I took a look at your pictures. I think you need to change it up so it's mounted the way I describe. If it makes sense to you.

I sent JohnnyB some pictures of mine once. I can't find them anymore, and I could take some more pictures now but I can't find the damn cable to upload the pictures to the web. If he still has them maybe he could post them.

Craig
 

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one more comment. the way you have it mounted the rotor and pickups aren't even close to each other. They need to be almost flush.
 

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craig does it the same way as i do. the rotor and pickups dont have to be flush from a surface/face point of view. i milled the back of my plate out to get it further into the cavity, but ive seen several more setups that run and the pickup and rotor are barely passing each other. i think obviously the more the better.

mine mounts up to a 1/4" alum round plate.

i didnt cut any lugs off of my inner cover.

i showed lonewolf my setup at vir and he should have no problems with his. im running a seal to keep the space dry. im actually going to use a different seal as i think mine leaks a bit. either from there or behind the carrier plate.

the pvls are pretty good. either the work or just plain dont. the wires are important. with points, if its 180 out, it will backfire. with the pvl, youll get nothing. so if youre getting nothing, swap the wires before you go crazy pulling things apart. yes, you need the single throw double pole switch. they are about 6 or 7 bucks from a local good electronics store. it will have 4 blades on the back of it.

jc
 

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I remember getting to the point of one side firing and the other not... but just figured it was me and not the product.. hence why I wanted to take it to a shop to have it done. I also remember cutting off those tabs on the cover. This was all two years ago so I'm sorry Tim for not having all the details fresh in my head.

J 'duh?' D
 

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The rotors on my PVL setups probably pass 80% of the stator...but are not completely flush, works great.

Joe, if you go with a new seal, look for a double lip seal. When I first designed my block off plates I was using a single lip (lip pointed in) and it leaked a tad. Went to a double lip and they don't leak a drop.
JohnnyB
 

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thats what im going to do. I also am using a metal case seal, and im going to swith to an all rubber one.

thanks!

me
 

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My system seems to be going together fine.I just don't have any time to work on it. I still haven't taken a day off since VIR at Easter. The mounting plate that Buff sent me didn't have any slots in it for fine adjustments. He mounted the pick ups on it and sent it along. He did put a keyway into the magnet and told me that it was set for 39-40 BTDC. Like Monkey says its Pete T that says that 44 is the magic number for timing.
 

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I just went into the garage and checked my notes. I have mine set for 35 degrees BTDC.

Sounds kind of hokey to not be able to adjust your timing to suit your own motor. But I guess Buff knows more about this than I do.

Craig
 

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Okay I just found the damn coils (<--ahole).
But NO single throw double pole.. Tim can you guys get/have one?
I'll be up tomorrow after work to drop off parts and get shitfaced in the Old Port to drown my sorrows.

J'wtf'D
 

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You don't even need to have a kill switch in place to run the bike. Too many times the kill switch gets a short in it that will mess up the ignition. You only need to wire up the kill switch to kill the engine. For what you're trying to do just put the bike in gear and let out the clutch with the brake on to kill the engine. Eliminate one more potential problem from the equation.

Craig
 

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Craig, that's exactly the way i am running this bike, FWIW, i was told the switch/wiring can just cause problems

PS Ghetto, I think the switch is on the bike now . . . remember we were fuckin with it all last year?
 

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thats great for the uscra, but ahrma requires a hot pit/pit in tech/ engine kill. but no, you dont need the switch to run it. just to kill it. like craig says.

my plate is adjustable.

jc
 

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Running on the race track without a kill switch is a bad idea. I was just recommending it for the process of getting it running.

But Evil, get a good kill switch. I'd hate to see something happen where a corner worker needed a kill switch for one reason or another.

Craig
 
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