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Discussion Starter #1
haven't been on in a while, but i'm back- with a new a bike

got a 1972 cb350 for $125. score.

just wondering if any of you knew what the widest front and rear tires i can go in the in old measurements? 4.5 18?

here's the bike, and an inspiration to what i hope it will look like. i know it's not cafe but i love the look of it.

thanks!



 

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Your tire selection will be based on the size of your rims and the tires that will fit on the rims. I'm thinking the above bike has custom rims on it. Your other problem will be what will fit within the front brake and rear end brake setup. Based on the bike above - the front tire is just a little too big for my taste - but what the heck - go for it. Lastly - the stock frames may have a small handling problem with a bigger bit tire on it. I'll bet ya the above bike wobbles a little with the current setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm not going as extreme as the bike above. To me, that looks like more of a show bike with un-functional ascetics. That bike has an extended swing arm, sits insanely low and has huge tires, just to state the obvious that parks thinks i don't know. thanks for the gay useless reply though!

I think it's a clean smooth looking bike and it's going to be base off this project. It's good to have a direction in early states of a project.

Right now, the stock rims, which I will be keeping are both 18's. The front has a 3.50 on it, the rear has a 4.00 on it.
I should have asked my question clearer- can I bump my tire size up a size in both the front and that back without rubbing the front brake and rear breaks and/or chain?
I was looking at cooker tire's firestone 400 for the front and 450 for the rear.
 

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You might be able to. Doing so will cause the tire to change its shape, and will wear poorly. It also will handle differently, as the sidewalls will be at a different angle than designed.
Right now you have a 110 rear and 100 front. You maybe be able to go 120 rear and 110 front without clearance issues. I wouldn't go any larger without changing the rims.
 

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at the risk of adding to my enormous collection of gay and useless posts, i have found that in a given size, there is a fair bit of variation in width (actual) between brands. if you (shredderman) can get ahold of actual (mounted on your sized rims) widths, you may prevent a gay and useless purchase.
-parks
 

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and a simple way to check clearance on you bike is to get some 1/4" weatherstrip foam, stick it around a section of tire, and check around a full rotation to see the gaps at fender stays, brake parts etc. 1/4" is roughly one size bigger in girth.
-parks
 

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110 front and 120 rear fits with no clearance issue. Downside is that you can't use the front fender/brace at all.
 

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You actually can use the stock front fender with a 110 front with a minimal amount of trimming. It only hits where the fender is formed between the inner brace ant the fork legs. Trim that part back to where the brace is and it clears. I used a CL fender, but I expect the CB could be used too. I'll look for a picture.

I also have the Avon AM23 130vb18 on the rear of mine, with no clearance issues.

Ken
 

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Ken, could you illustrate that a bit more? Are you implying that I can still use the front brace with 110 size tires?
 

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I have a stock CL350 fender on my racebike. The only difference is I have XL350 forks so I had to drill new mounting holes where the fork brace bolts to the fork legs. I may have moved the fender up a little from original, but I don't know that. for sure. I have run the Avon AM22 110vb18 with no problems. I don't have a good picture and I dont have the 110 under there anymore, cause I gave those wheels to Judeyramone and haven't built new ones yet. I did have to trim the fender material on the sides where it is pressed down below the level of the fork brace where the indents are for the fork legs.

Ken
 

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130 rear on a stock setup no prob. why youd do that, i dont know.

fat tires are gay. even gayer than parks. why would you take a questionably handling bike, and make it obviously handle like shit. fatter tires will make it turn in like dogshit on a stick. i just dont understand. and this whole japanese chopper scene thing is just atrocious generally. im so tired of hearing about "zero" engineering. like the zero was something great. poke me in the fucking eye.

and the fatter you go with a tire, the pointier it gets at the crown generally. the rim size, as well as the tube size will greatly affect how the tire tread will end up looking. and yes, wearing.

sorry. build what you want, or what youre inspired to. to each his own. im just personally tired of seeing those jap chops.
 

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Joe,
According to Avon The 130 and 110 will both work on WM-3 rims. I like them because they make the steering substantially heavier. I just like the feel of a planted front end. At my weught I don't have a problem muscling it through a transition. I would not recommend it for anybody that didn't want their bike to handle like mine.

Ken
 

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ive seen plenty of 130s on stock rear rims. with stock motors. just seems dumb to me. a stock rear im not sure is a wm3 though. and i was more referring to the front. and youre talking about a racebike. not streetbike. i run the 90/90 dunlop on the front of mine. for 3 reasons. 8lbs lighter. lower profile increases steering. love the compound. the comparable rear dunlop is 11lbs lighter. yes, i said it, 11! but imagine steering around something 2times heavier, with less cornering ability. and thats why i disagree with it. its just a personal opinion.

you know ken, here is the problem i have with this. you know all that. youve experienced it, and made that decision based on your personal preferences. for you you its based on performance. people see that japanese chopper crap an want it cus it looks cool. with no real idea of how shitty they are going to make a bike handle. with no real thought about what is going to actually be like to own that bike. im not pickin on mikeyshreds. im just saying in general. i look at those bikes and cant imagine riding something like that for real. people just make bad decisions. they buy into that crap because its presented well. but thats it. i see those pictures of those japanese bikes, and it just makes me laugh at how rediculous they are. i dont care if you spent 60 hours machining a fucking gas cap. whats wrong with the one that came on it? all it has to do is stay on, and keep the gas in the tank. minimalism applies to both the chop, and the cafe equally. guess ive finally seen one too many pics of those bikes.


somebody really fired you up eh??
jc
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Eh, thanks for the advise. I'm going to go with 110/120 combo so the bike doesn't go like total shit. How do you figure what that translates to the old style tire sizes?
I'm getting the Firestone black walls from coker tire.

As far as gay japanese chops go, I'm obviously going to do as I please. I'm riding it. I will tell you, I would flame myself if this was my only bike and my first attempt at building a bike.
I already have a nice handling bike that I enjoy and would like to try building something else. Besides, I got the bike for just over a hundred bucks, so- what ever happens is going to be better then the fate it had rotting behind a trailer.


My last bike:


And a little direction change. Not as useless.

 

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Judey,
They are 2.15, WM-3. The silver one is off a CR125 and th gold one is off an RM125.

Ken
 

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That 125 up there is a very nice little build. Understated. Workmanlike. Stock Appearing. It looks like it might have come from the factory looking like that.
 

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Dennis Kirk has an inch to metric conversion chart in their paper catalog. Don't know if it's online.

For the record I'm not a hater, build whatever you want man. I like the aesthetics of the Japanese chops, as long as I don't have to ride one. I call them bulldozers because that's what they'd be like to ride.
 
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