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what happened at v.c.?

4192 Views 53 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  aaron
yo dudes! wazzup?


"dude, my boots feel like they are filled with rain slushies!"
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Not That,

I'm not saying Buff is wrong, but I rode a whole race without the kill switch and placed pretty well. It was running on both cylinders. You only need a kill switch to stop the bike. Not to make it run.

Matt is correct, you want one of the marine grade double pole kill switches with the pvl.

Evil, just curious why are you sure it's not the kill switch? Not trying to be a smart ass. Just curious.

craig, i was going to say the same thing, run it with no switch. i just did not want to be targeted by the scrutineers

When I was looking at it I don't think there was a kill switch hooked up. Strange problem....appears to be a problem with one of the stators....but it could be an issue that just takes more patience that can be found at any race track.

They swapped out all components between sides...still couldn't get consistant spark out of one of the stator coils....although that stator coil read fine on the VOM and the rotor clearance was acceptable.

Mary's bike uses one of those half size stators...they a kind of picky it seems like. The full size that wrap around farther seem to be less sensitive to problems. The clearance to the rotor has to be closer on the small stators it seems like.
It's not the kill switch because all it does is ground out the circuit. each one of those red leads does nothing else. IF they did do something else, then the small amount of electronics I proclaim to know is for shit. But think about it. They are hooked up to a switch. They are not carrying any current/voltage/amperage. It is when they are grounded that the circuit is switched to the bike and not the ignition.

If I am wrong, tell me. But JB and I went through the diagnostics. Very weird.
But if the switch is broken couldn't it - or one side of the double pole switch - be grounded all the time? Or worse yet, grounded intermittantly?

If it was me I'd take it out and see if the problem goes away. If it doesn't then that's not it. And that's the small amount of electronics that I know.

If I remember right they didn't have any kill switch hooked up when I was looking at it. And kill switch would be the same as a kill switch that wasn't it should run fine with no kill switch...assuming no other problems. But since they already tried that...the switch can't be the problem.

We had a situation with Mary's bike where we couldn't get spark out of it till about 600 rpm (used a drill to turn the engine). Then I played with the stator spacing, moved it in over the magnets farther and brought it closer to the rotor also. Then we had spark at the normal kick/push speeds.
exactly. There was no kill switch even mounted. But someone kept saying that there had to be a kill switch to run the system. Let's beat a dead horse.
that funny.
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