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Why is this sh*t never as easy as you think?

1574 Views 12 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  robertob
So I wanted to swap a set of newer 35mm forks onto my CB450.
Here are some things I've learned over the past 3 weeks:

CB750f forks are 1.5" too long, but that can be worked around.
ebay forks were rusty but cheap ($40 for everything)
now I have to find a 2nd pair of legs
bellows won't work with DOHC dust seal
have less offset than K forks
stem too long
I bent stock CB450 stem pressing it out so now I need another
wider axle than drum front so I need to make spacers
no brake rod mount
fender prev. spraypainted so it reacts with lacquer primer.
broke new lower steering tapered roller bearing while test fitting so have to buy another set
no known stock-type fork ears work
CB750f upper triple has no stem pinch bolt, but CB450 stem has not enough thread for locknut
polished upper triple then dropped it.
then discovered pinch bolts are 7mm not 8mm like the ones I ordered in SS
no known dual-disk front wheel works with CB750f legs
legs are black so a PITA to sand/polish by hand

There's more but I can't remember it.

The lesson for next time?
- Don't bother with 35mm forks unless you're racing or unless it's a bolton swap like CB500t. It's just as much work as doing a bigger, modern setup.

- If you're going to do a swap like this just go straight for GL1000 forks with 39mm legs, dual disks, polished legs and a spoke front wheel. Then call Frank and have him make shorter tubes. Then call someone and have them build you a billet upper clamp. Then order a brand new fiberglass fender on ebay. Yeah, it'll be $500 by the end, but it will WORK.

This job has turned out to be a way bigger hassle than I expected, especially considering my own blunders.

There is so little interchangeability with this stuff, why is that?
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the sliders are the longer parts. pull them through the top clamp. of course you need axle spacers, the tubes are further apart in the clamps. fork gators are your issue. personally, unless its british, i hate them. they have less offset, thats what makes them desirable for a racebike. we went over the stem issue here about 2000 times. you could always drop a spacer on the bottom of it to make the difference up. its how other people do it. i dont know how you bent the stem on the 450, ya must have ham hands or something. the brake rod mounts to the caliper mounting holes. throw that old pos fender out. im sure the cb750f fork ears work. big deal, 2 sets of nuts and bolts that dont fit. like you dont have a box of spare nuts and bolts already?? to run a dual disk, you need to pull the speedo drive. then bolt the disk carrier on there. magic, dual disks. yeah, you dont have a speedo, maybe you should say no stock speedos work with dual disk fronts. yeah, they come from the factory black. thats what makes them cool looking. that and they are wing shaped.

now stop breaking shit, complaining, and get to work. alot of people here have done that swap. its not that big of a deal.

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and please put pictures. the stem presses from the bottom. but i guess ya figured that already. keep going, you'll get it. you didnt mention how many times youve knocked the bike over. (i always do.)

when my shop was down i took the entire bike to a machinist and had him do it up for me. i was actually on my way up to new hampshire from maryland and i unloaded it from my truck, he made the spacers, then we loaded it up and i went to new hampshire to race. i had a wheel laced, a brake made up, and a new front end put on in a week after i crashed it and bent the front end.

just email it to me. id like to see it and ill post it up. the old goldwing has dual disks and a speedo drive. not saying it cant be done, just on older stuff i had never been able to figure out a way to do it with the disk carrier mountd there. meaning, using 350/550 stuff.

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