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when you limit the travel........ with say a two inch bushing placed internally

you end up with an overall effective length fork assembly that is two inches shorter

and cutting any spring shorter makes it stronger.......

that should fill in the pieces of the puzzle I hope

hey on the controls...... I'm simply stating my preference and opinions

not beating on anyone that likes or prefers different

and as far a bikes being toys

well I buy my toys and play with them

but when I spend a year or two..... sometimes even longer.... and not even talking money...... building a bike

I really intend to ride it and use it for it's intended purpose

and I'm not being self righteous or trying to impose my beliefs on anyone
 

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yes, simply cut the spring........ add spacers as required to take up the extra spac or even longer to increase the preload

for any given spring...... each and every coil makes it weaker so merely cutting coils out makes the spring stronger

one tidbit...... you can actually measure the distance between the coils and know the exact travel it will take to induce coil bind

if..... you have excessive fork travel or forks too long

internal limiting will effectively stiffen the forks themselves due simply to shortening their effective length

also having more of the fork supported and bearing by the bushes over a longer span internally tends to have the same stiffening effect
 

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Alright Pampadori...

Took me a while to find this thread...don't know why. Lookin' good, It has a great looking stance - hopefully with 'ol hacksaw there, you'l sort out the front suspension. The front 3/4 shot is sick. I kinda agree with 2smoke - that thing looks good rusty...I'm sure it will look wicked either way. Don't know if you get any of the cycle rags, but this month's issue of Barnetts has a guy that uses alot of chemically rusted / tinted pieces. Might look good on that beast.

The tires look good...I'm about to order the same things, but I think I might have to get a wider rim. What did those rims come off ? Do you know what those rim widths are ?

Can't wait to see how this one turns out.
 

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I think you're building a great bobber! I like the foot control placement along with the bars myself, the silly feet forward stance is goofy with tall bars and downright foolish with beach-bars. Personally I never got comfortable with the jocky shift when I was riding Dad's old bike but they look neat.
Keep it up, the amount of work you get done both amazes me and pisses me off too.....do you have a day job or retired young?

Regardless.....nice start!
 

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Discussion Starter #48
ok, i bought some 3/4 inch pipe and bent it slightly. i welded the splined end of a shift lever to it and then sanded down the weld so you can't really see it. the knob is the top of a chrome paper towel holder from lowes. i pressed a metal slug into that end of the pipe and then drilled and tapped it for the shift knob to screw in to. then i powder coated the pipe high gloss black.

the clutch is extremely hard to explain. It attaches where the clutch push-pin adjuster is. i welded a 2 inch peice of tube to the lock nut so it sticks out and then drilled a hole in the little chrome cover. i had a katana shift lever so i drilled out the splines just a little and then tighten it down with the 10mm bolt around the tube. I had to use thread locker on that nut that i welded the tube to so that it wouldn't back off when i press the clutch. Seems to be working great now, but we'll see if the engine heat causes any issues from thermal expansion and what not.

the most difficult part so far has been sqeezing all the alt and pick up wires thru that 1/2" copper tubing and then hiding my on/off and starter switches (the wires for which run thru the frame down to the end of the back bone near the ground and then into another 1/2" copper tube and up to my faux oil tank where all electronics live).

the on/off switch is hidden at the end of the left rubber grip. its a press switch and i just take my finger and depress the end of the grip and the switch clicks and turns on the power. the end of the right grip hides the momentary starter switch the same way. That shit took me for ever to figure out and i'm applying for a patent as we speak. (not really).
 

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tell your buddy I think he's nuts for not taking 9900 for that thing if that was a real bidder

let me know what switches you are running if they prove durable enough to hold up to the harmonics

some do and some don't
 

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Discussion Starter #50
i wonder what reserve was? i haven't talked to him in about 6 weeks or so. i thought Jason Lee would have grabbed it up or something. If the switches don't hold up, i've got a friend that builds guitars and amps and stuff like that and he can get me some wawa peddle buttons that are made for stomping the shit out of. They should do the trick.
 

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Pamp,
My preference would be to swap the front forks so the caliper is behind the fork leg. I think it hides it a little bit and makes the front end look a bit cleaner. Looks good.

Ken
 

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I've done several switch things and the durability issues haven't been so much the switch not being able to mechanically cycle and whoop on

but several times simply brutal harmonics would finish them quickly

especially with micro type switches

I know that Exile uses some tiny switches concealed in their bars but I've never seen or held them

maybe the guitar switches or what you have now will work
 

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Another place to look for 'hardened switches' is a machinery seller. Anything for a mill or lathe is going to be pretty damned tough. Also look into momentary foot switches at the same place, usually they can point you toward replacements and again....anything in a machine shop is going to be pretty stout.
 

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my first attempt at tiny switches was placing a micro switch inside some foot controls in a 650 triumph

the engine was very well balanced and it wasn't an intense high rpm machine

really almost caddy smooth

never found a small switch that could live there

some would die the first time it was spun up to 3 grand

so when trick efforts like that are successful

I admire them

I guess I could post up some pix of a tail light that exploded (at 4500 rpm and that fender still is quite intense there to this day) on one build and prompted me buy a reed tachometer

and also to never paint an unknown one off bike until it had been proven

I think the aftermath of that fiasco was featured in a tech article for the first issue of the now defunct Chopperunderground
 

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Discussion Starter #55
been busy with other things lately, but i got some stainless pipe and started to make the exhaust. i'm going to tack it together and then have someone tig it for me.

i'm going under the bike and then slightly angle out just aft the engine.
new wooden kickstand....

i've ordered a little brass toggle switch that i'm going to put in the headlight for Hi/low beam, found two K&N filters that are 2" openings 3" diameter filter, and only 1.5" deep so they will fit without hitting my faux oil tank and lines.

I still don't have a title either. I checked with VA dmv and there is no record of the bike. I checked with NC dmv where it came from, and they also show no record for the bike. Police couldn't see where it was ever reported stolen. PO died. It may have never been registered before. Next step is filling out a dmv form requesting new title but i need a notorized bill of sale...and i'm not going to be able to get that.
 

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I sure like that bike,

Did you shorten the forks or just slide them up in the clamps from previous pics?

What is your approximate ride height(i.e. distance from lower frame tubes to ground)?
 

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Discussion Starter #57
i'll try to measure later today. so far i haven't shortened anything, but the forks are in need to rebuilding and they may not be rebounding all the way.
right now i'm trying to find stainless pipe to finish the exhaust and coming up with a bill of sale so that Broadway Titles can make it have some papers.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
frame tubes are about 6" from ground.
so i got the exhaust done. I was going to have someone tig weld it for me but after getting prices around $100 to weld it i thought i'd try my mig on it. I got some stainless wire and gave it a try. I only had a mix of 75% argon 25% co2 and i was told that it wouldn't work with stainless. so i had to get a tank of 100% argon. I ended up trading for my tank and then trading back and not having to pay anything so that was cool.
I ground the welds and then sanded them so you can't tell where the welds were unless you look really close. here is the finished product.


i may slash cut the ends or do something like a perferated cap or something. or just leave them alone and start working harder on getting a title. I've decided to go thru Broadway Title to get the title. $200 and a couple of weeks. Virginia makes it too damn hard to do yourself.
I also replaced the clutch rod oil seal that was leaking.
 

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That bike s bad to the bone. I like the massive tires, seat pan, and grips.
 

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I like that bike... lot's of nice details.

One thing though... when I look at the shifter, I wonder how it will handle bumps, seems like it might jiggle around a lot as you're riding and I'm not sure how that will work out? Sounds like it's relatively light but it's long enough I'd worry about it putting pressure on the shift forks or even shifting when you hit bumps?

No idea if that's a legitimate worry, it's just something that came to mind when i saw it.
 
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