Marc, what do you use for filling divots prior to powder coating. I have some aluminum bits and they have some small dings in them, but I would rather fill them than sand them out. A high temp epoxy you would recommend?
Posts by Cyorg
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Thanks....Basically means there are small nicks in forged aluminum parts that could be sanded and feathered out, but I don't want to do that. They are fairly important structural bits and it would be better to just clean up the nicks and fill them with (as you suggested JB weld) rather than remove material. I do have a tin of powdered aluminum filler, but not sure any of the epoxies I have will tolerate the temp. I'll check out the JB weld.
Was it working ok last time you rode it? I had a little Penton and when I first fired it up the plates were stuck. I didn't want to get into the clutch cover unless absolutely necessary, because parts were scarce. I started it up, pushed it down the street, hopped on and slipped it into second gear. Went for a ride with the clutch lever pulled in (on and off the throttle) and was about to give up when it finally broke lose. It always tended to stick if it sat for any length of time, but never as bad as it did initially. Never did sort it out because someone came along that wanted it more than me.You know Trials.......I really think the plates might be stuck together but I won't know til I inspect it and at the rate I'm going that might not be til Christmas
I know the pin, actuator, linkages, etc...all were clean and functioning properly. You think it may not like my Supertech Wal-Mart oil?
A complete (except for the ignition key) DT360 came up for sale in the neighbourhood for $200 and thought of you and your project. Just can't do it though... no time and no room in the shed.
ps. that sucks about the plating.
Well that certainly worked. This one "was" the identical bike, same colour, just a little more patina. Checked this AM and it's sold. Of course now I'm kicking myself, but its just as well. I have literally years worth of shop time waiting on projects that have accumulated over the last few decades.
It was listed on the local VarageSale site. You should check out the local site, assuming there is one. It's mostly women folk selling clothing and their kids used jock strap that they have outgrown (I'm not kidding), but there is a section for tools and vehicles etc. I bought a GL500 (sans key) for $400. Spent about $250 for bits and pieces including a rear tire and got collector plates for it, which means I can insure it for $200 a year. Total waste of money because I can't stand riding it.
Anyway check out the site. (I was a little hesitant to post anything about VarageSale in case Jag sees it... don't want to contribute to his addiction) I think you need a member to vouch for the fact that you are not a Craigslist rapist, but it's worth the effort. Note of caution ...It could be a curse if your bride gets involved... it's addictive.
Picked this up the other day for $100 with a new blade. Cast iron bed, made in Taiwan, so better than the Chinese stuff and beats using a hacksaw.
After about a week either you or your bride will hate me.
If you do end up taking your clutch apart, you can take the steel plates and deglaze them. A piece of glass with wet/dry sandpaper on top... use a bit of WD40 or the like and move the plates around in a figure 8 pattern. Having the surfaces scuffed up a bit will tend to lessen the stiction. You could try cleaning the friction plates in solvent and use the lightest oil stipulated in the manual when you refill it. For whatever reason, some bikes just tend to be that way. The friction material just likes to glue itself to the plates over time. Whenever I go to start one, I always pull the clutch in and kick it over a few times (switch off) to break it lose, just to save wear and tear on 1st gear. I'm only assuming the HT-1 kickstart is set up the same way. If its a bike with an electric start and no kick starter, I'll start it up, pull in the clutch and blip the throttle a few times to make sure the plates are hopefully free... then point it in a safe direction. Actually not a bad practice for any bike thats been sitting a long time.
Don't know if this applies in your case. Are you draining the float bowl when you put them away? If not, when you drag them out, drain the bowl and then turn on the tap. It seems to help a whole bunch in certain cases. Basically over a few weeks with the bowl vented to atmosphere, all the easily ignited stuff vaporizes. Especially in cases where the fuel is crap to start with.
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