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Discussion Starter · #182 ·
Caswell makes a sealer that actually prefers that type of finish, unlike the surgically clean finish most sealers want in order to last.
I might give Caswell a try. I don't believe I've ever used it before. I've always used Hirsch and been very pleased with their performance. 44 said Caswell comes in blue and that gave me the idea to use a little bit of toner but I have to make sure even a small amount won't compromise the integrity of the product.

Rust is coming off and the metal looks okay. In the picture it's flash rusting but I'm not concerned with that.....as long as the larger rust spots are removed I can do a final to remove the flash and used forced air to prevent flash rusting prior to sealer application.

Rust Metal




Black Darkness
 

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Discussion Starter · #184 · (Edited)
Here is a link to the Caswell sealer, it's a clear epoxy.
Gas Tank Sealer - Caswell Inc
Thanks Marc. I'll order.

Come to think of it I've used kreem before and Por 15 tank sealer before. I didn't like Kreem and I really can't remember why. It was probably due to my poor prep but Por 15 I've used and was satisfied. But Hirsch has been my go to for everything. But I will order the caswell epoxy and give that a go for the first time.

While I wait for the sealer I will try to finish stripping and filling the tank. After further examining the dents they are not even an 1/8 thick and its that thick in only one spot. I will attempt to use a couple body and metal hammers to re line the indents prior to filling. I might use the stud welder for a slide hammer but although it might look larger than they are......these are very small dents.

Rust Automotive exterior Bumper Auto part Automotive wheel system
 

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Discussion Starter · #185 ·
No real big update but how do you beat this............

6 days from China for $2.25. Not for a proper restoration but for what I'm doing.......perfect and inexpensive and sleeved.

It does smell like Harbor Freight and cancer and trade deficit though.

Auto part
 

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Discussion Starter · #186 ·
Just got these little repop badges in today. One of the most expensive things I've purchased for the 90.

But compared to what was on it.....day and night.

The quality is very nice and will add that finished touch to the tank once it's completed.

Motor vehicle Vehicle Car Font Automotive exterior
 

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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
Back to the moped thread.

Finished cleaning and applied the first sealer coat.......I may do another.

This tank was awful. I went with Hirsch as I've used it many times and it's never let me down. I've even used it on fiberglass tanks that run pre-mix.....against its recommendation and never had a problem. I guess the best way to describe the the condition is like 80 grit sandpaper in sunken relief. Since the tank was stripped I used light to look for holes and use the inspection camera......I feel it's alright.

Once everything is cured I'll address the dents then start on the finish.

Metal


Metal


Auto part Wheel Metal


The tank power washed nicely and the phosphoric acid really removed a lot of small rust. But there are some areas that need a little more attention..........like isolated blasting (minimal )

Fuel tank Auto part Automotive fuel system Fender Vehicle
 

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If you had used the Caswell stripper you would not have to use a second coat. The Thixotropic property of the sealer makes it stick better and not run off, preventing a need for second coat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #190 ·
The switches are in bad shape. Had to purchase another off a mid 70s 250 so I could cannabalize some better parts.

Had to Dremel some stuff down but it looks as if it will work. Will get to cleaning them and lubing them

Electrical wiring Wire Technology Auto part Cable


Wire Technology Electronic device Electrical supply Floor


Wire Auto part Cable
 

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where did you buy those badges from? i got a ds7 yammy that would love a set.
 

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Marc, what do you use for filling divots prior to powder coating. I have some aluminum bits and they have some small dings in them, but I would rather fill them than sand them out. A high temp epoxy you would recommend?
I use regular JB Weld, not the quick set one. Nothing else will work except high dollar powder fillers ($75). Not sure what you mean by sanding out a ding?
 

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I use regular JB Weld, not the quick set one. Nothing else will work except high dollar powder fillers ($75). Not sure what you mean by sanding out a ding?
Thanks....Basically means there are small nicks in forged aluminum parts that could be sanded and feathered out, but I don't want to do that. They are fairly important structural bits and it would be better to just clean up the nicks and fill them with (as you suggested JB weld) rather than remove material. I do have a tin of powdered aluminum filler, but not sure any of the epoxies I have will tolerate the temp. I'll check out the JB weld.
 
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