[o1marc]

Thanks....Basically means there are small nicks in forged aluminum parts that could be sanded and feathered out, but I don't want to do that. They are fairly important structural bits and it would be better to just clean up the nicks and fill them with (as you suggested JB weld) rather than remove material. I do have a tin of powdered aluminum filler, but not sure any of the epoxies I have will tolerate the temp. I'll check out the JB weld.

Just make sure you give it as much "tooth" as you can. Let it cure about 1/2 hour than oven cure it at 190°F for an hour and you can start the sanding then, instead of waiting 24hrs to cure like they direct.

 

[knappyfeet]

These little switches do take some time to get working correctly.

 

[knappyfeet]

Paint Fail

Actually it was more of glaze fail.

After it dried it amplified areas of imperfections I didn't notice and it was entirely the skim coat of glaze that I must have not smoothed out correctly.

I was contemplating leaving it be......but decided to strip it.

 

[knappyfeet]

This one's on ebay for a little over $1000 (reserve not met). I have that into mine plus time tinkering......I never learn.

It looks nice

1971 Honda HT1 | eBay

 

[knappyfeet]

A little more complete...........just a bunch of little things.

 

[steveo]

Nice one Knappy.

 

[knappyfeet]

Nice one Knappy.

Thank you steveo. Ordered a couple of cables, some parts I lost and other little bits and that should be it.

Just shy under 2 years.

 

[thechief86]

Took your time, but that thing looks great! Does it ride nice? Knobbies were a good choice.

 

[Farmer_John]

Nice one Knappy.

Agreed. But you did a lot of work, just to take it out and get it dirty!

 

[knappyfeet]

Agreed. But you did a lot of work, just to take it out and get it dirty!

I agree FJ and I'm sure I will ride with a little more caution to stay away from the sagebrush. But this will more than likely be behind my RV for a little get around bike at the camps.

Chief.......... I haven't ridden it in its current state yet but before I started on this spruce up it ran fine and kinda suprised me with its peppy 90cc. It's light and very easy to flick around but it's MASSIVE aqillies heal off road is the suspension. I'm sure the extra rubber will help in the soft stuff and stability but this little motor can easily write checks the suspension can't cash. But it was just how it was done at that time........when suspensions seemed more of an after thought.

 

[thechief86]

Hagon and progressive can help you out in the squish department

 

[knappyfeet]

Took the 90 out for some tinkering as I haven't done anything to it for awhile.

I noticed the small little tidbits I plated with the Eastwood zinc kit are rusting. I have since purchased a Caswell system for other projects and am tempted to take the bad parts and redo them......

It's been very rainy in socal this year but still.....no excuse. The Caswell needs a power supply to properly work.....maybe Eastwood would benefit from the same

 

[knappyfeet]

Installed the front brake cable but lost the lower adjusting screw. Just over 2 years and still not finished.

Anyways. .......I felt the itch to start it and after I snapped the pics I installed the throttle cable half heartedly and put my Jegs radiator overflow container I made into a portable test fuel tank and started it up....nice. Then even without any brakes I wanted a very slow stroll down the street so I held the Jegs in my armpit and put it into first and away it went......the clutch was stuck. I thought I addressed that earlier but apparently not. So with no brakes and a clutch stuck I had to Fred Flintstone it to a stop.

 

[TrialsRider]

What's up with the clutch? Do you think it's a problem with the actuator or does it maybe not like the oil you are using?

 

[knappyfeet]

What's up with the clutch? Do you think it's a problem with the actuator or does it maybe not like the oil you are using?

You know Trials.......I really think the plates might be stuck together but I won't know til I inspect it and at the rate I'm going that might not be til Christmas

I know the pin, actuator, linkages, etc...all were clean and functioning properly. You think it may not like my Supertech Wal-Mart oil?

 

[TrialsRider]

... You think it may not like my Supertech Wal-Mart oil?

lol that could be it.

If you are able to get it to break free with some effort on the rear brake, then I would suspect the oil, but if it simply won't release I would wonder about the engagement mechanism. Not sure what they are like on the little Yamaha's but on the little Suzuki's they were a combination of a fast screw type cam/thread thingy inserted into a nylon thingy and were regularly prone to not function. I found dismantling the thing and lubricating it up real good with Sil-glyde lubricant sometimes helped. Is all important that the cable is not simply worn out.

This is that best stuff I have found for lubricating nylon where it contacts steel:

I think you live in a dryer climate then we see here, but keep in mind that water or gasoline will swell the rubberized cork material in a wet clutch plate. Condensation will rust the steel plates very quickly where they don't sit in the oil bath when parked for extended periods.

I would dump the oil and refill with a Ambra or similar hydraulic oil similar to what is used in a tractor transmission, that seems to work the best of everything I have ever tried :/ Way better then multi-grade engine oil in my experience. I experience little to no clutch sticking since I've been using it, even in sub-zero winter weather ymmv.

 

[knappyfeet]

If you are able to get it to break free with some effort on the rear brake, then I would suspect the oil, but if it simply won't release I would wonder about the engagement mechanism. Not sure what they are like on the little Yamaha's but on the little Suzuki's they were a combination of a fast screw type cam/thread thingy inserted into a nylon thingy and were regularly prone to not function. I found dismantling the thing and lubricating it up real good with Sil-glyde lubricant sometimes helped. Is all important that the cable is not simply worn out.

Thank you.

I already ordered it.......Sil-Glyde along with Hondabond for a leaky stator on another project.

New cable installed earlier.

 

[TrialsRider]

Not sure if yours is anything like this, but this is exactly the evil part that needs frequent attention:

 

[knappyfeet]

Not sure if yours is anything like this, but this is exactly the evil part that needs frequent attention:

Oh God yes.....that looks like a horrible configuration.

Off memory I do not believe there is any nylon part of the clutch system but I could be (and probably am) wrong.

If I wasn't "knee deep" into a Honda 200X .......nasty and smelly fork rebuild I would pull the cover off just to get an idea.

 

[Cyorg]

You know Trials.......I really think the plates might be stuck together but I won't know til I inspect it and at the rate I'm going that might not be til Christmas

I know the pin, actuator, linkages, etc...all were clean and functioning properly. You think it may not like my Supertech Wal-Mart oil?

Was it working ok last time you rode it? I had a little Penton and when I first fired it up the plates were stuck. I didn't want to get into the clutch cover unless absolutely necessary, because parts were scarce. I started it up, pushed it down the street, hopped on and slipped it into second gear. Went for a ride with the clutch lever pulled in (on and off the throttle) and was about to give up when it finally broke lose. It always tended to stick if it sat for any length of time, but never as bad as it did initially. Never did sort it out because someone came along that wanted it more than me.
A complete (except for the ignition key) DT360 came up for sale in the neighbourhood for $200 and thought of you and your project. Just can't do it though... no time and no room in the shed.
ps. that sucks about the plating.