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Discussion Starter · #221 · (Edited)
A complete (except for the ignition key) DT360 came up for sale in the neighbourhood for $200 and thought of you and your project. Just can't do it though... no time and no room in the shed.
ps. that sucks about the plating.
I have some parts coming in to get the front brakes working and when I do I will try your method. I'm glad it worked for you and hope it does for me too......although I may end up just pulling the cover off and have a look.

Gosh.....if an old 360 come up for sale I would try to make room......me personally. Everyone has their "thing" and mine is old dirt bikes. I'm partial to the late 70s and early to mid 80s stuff. I don't really post that stuff here because I don't think nobody really cares that much. It's caferacer.net after all and not thumper talk or something.

But classic MX stuff is.........H......O.......T.......HOT right now and parts are getting scarcer and scarcer....especially OEM.

Just to motivate you Cy.............here's a beauty

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Just had to edit...... I remember in another thread about zinc plating that desmo said his Eastwood plated items started to rust a little.............I guess I was warned. I may bump that thread with my Caswell copy cad plating system I've been using recently. It's like day and night....especially with the chromates........no comparison
 

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Just to motivate you Cy.............here's a beauty

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Well that certainly worked. This one "was" the identical bike, same colour, just a little more patina. Checked this AM and it's sold. Of course now I'm kicking myself, but its just as well. I have literally years worth of shop time waiting on projects that have accumulated over the last few decades.

It was listed on the local VarageSale site. You should check out the local site, assuming there is one. It's mostly women folk selling clothing and their kids used jock strap that they have outgrown (I'm not kidding), but there is a section for tools and vehicles etc. I bought a GL500 (sans key) for $400. Spent about $250 for bits and pieces including a rear tire and got collector plates for it, which means I can insure it for $200 a year. Total waste of money because I can't stand riding it.
Anyway check out the site. (I was a little hesitant to post anything about VarageSale in case Jag sees it... don't want to contribute to his addiction) I think you need a member to vouch for the fact that you are not a Craigslist rapist, but it's worth the effort. Note of caution ...It could be a curse if your bride gets involved... it's addictive.
Picked this up the other day for $100 with a new blade. Cast iron bed, made in Taiwan, so better than the Chinese stuff and beats using a hacksaw.
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Discussion Starter · #223 ·
It was listed on the local VarageSale site. You should check out the local site, assuming there is one. It's mostly women folk selling clothing and their kids used jock strap that they have outgrown (I'm not kidding), but there is a section for tools and vehicles etc. I bought a GL500 (sans key) for $400. Spent about $250 for bits and pieces including a rear tire and got collector plates for it, which means I can insure it for $200 a year. Total waste of money because I can't stand riding it.
Anyway check out the site. (I was a little hesitant to post anything about VarageSale in case Jag sees it... don't want to contribute to his addiction) I think you need a member to vouch for the fact that you are not a Craigslist rapist, but it's worth the effort.
I just checked it out here locally. Pretty cool. Your correct about the women's stuff but there was a cool HO train set and a set of angle eyes headlights......but I havent signed up yet.

In their eyes I'm still a rabid CL rapist
 

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I just checked it out here locally. Pretty cool. Your correct about the women's stuff but there was a cool HO train set and a set of angle eyes headlights......but I havent signed up yet.

In their eyes I'm still a rabid CL rapist
After about a week either you or your bride will hate me.

If you do end up taking your clutch apart, you can take the steel plates and deglaze them. A piece of glass with wet/dry sandpaper on top... use a bit of WD40 or the like and move the plates around in a figure 8 pattern. Having the surfaces scuffed up a bit will tend to lessen the stiction. You could try cleaning the friction plates in solvent and use the lightest oil stipulated in the manual when you refill it. For whatever reason, some bikes just tend to be that way. The friction material just likes to glue itself to the plates over time. Whenever I go to start one, I always pull the clutch in and kick it over a few times (switch off) to break it lose, just to save wear and tear on 1st gear. I'm only assuming the HT-1 kickstart is set up the same way. If its a bike with an electric start and no kick starter, I'll start it up, pull in the clutch and blip the throttle a few times to make sure the plates are hopefully free... then point it in a safe direction. Actually not a bad practice for any bike thats been sitting a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #226 ·
This thing is not dead yet.....but not finished either.

I've sold quite a few of my machines in the last few months......including my GL1800. My back is not great.

I pulled this out the back. I thought I had most of the little things to get it going but needed to order more cables, fasteners, etc. One is this headlight. I'm beyond making things perfect and more into finishing things but this bulb looks ratty inside. It looks to be sealed. I went trolling ebay for one and they are few and far between and somewhat costly. The seat tear will probably just get repaired.

Once in the direct sunlight I forgot how "purpley blue" it is.

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Discussion Starter · #227 ·
So I went to install the oil pump cable......only to remember that the clutch was stuck. I manually attempted every trick in the book to "unstick" it with no success........so I ended up removing the cover and freeing the plates. They weren't that glued together but it doesn't take much to keep it stuck. I somewhat easily removed the plates.........separated them and without cleaning or anything reinstalled them back to see if that solved the problem and it did.

So now I'm going to clean the drive and driven plates separately and reinstall. I have some hondabond but will not need it as the gasket came off whole with no problems.

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Discussion Starter · #228 ·
One whole day with evaporust and little rust removal. That's one of the problems with evaporust............it's very good and non toxic and really doesn't pull much carbon out of the metal but it is as slow as a turtle on heavier deep rust.

I'm tempted to get some rustoleum rust remover and be done with this plate today.

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I've been crucified for suggesting it, but I arose again to proclaim that if you simply take the plain steel plates to a smooth concrete surface and swirl them with good steady, even pressure till they are uniformly roughed up, they'll work great.

I've been doing it successfully for almost a thousand years (well, more like 25, but seems like a thousand)
 

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Discussion Starter · #230 ·
I've been crucified for suggesting it, but I arose again to proclaim that if you simply take the plain steel plates to a smooth concrete surface and swirl them with good steady, even pressure till they are uniformly roughed up, they'll work great.

I've been doing it successfully for almost a thousand years (well, more like 25, but seems like a thousand)
Thanks grandpaul.........should have read before I assembled it.

I'm tired of waiting for evaporust.........I think this will be good.

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I was going to "re-Eastwood zinc kit" the fasteners but years of non JIS drivers made some look like a swastika so I purchased new ones.

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Discussion Starter · #231 ·
After zinc plating the oil pump cable and lubing it up nicely I threw away the old throttle cable as it was kink in and not moving freely and ordered a new one....along with some other items. I wanted to get it up to speed to ride it to the "every Wednesday" cruise night cause some of the guys wanted to see how it was coming along but I didn't receive it in time so............I just put it in the Elco and "piggied" it over.

Good thing as it really wasn't entirely ready........with a few little things like the rear brake arm missing and some wiring issues, etc.

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Discussion Starter · #234 ·
Just wondering Knappy.... How well did the zinc plating kit work?
Well what I've learned using the Eastwood kit steveo is that it seems to work best when you plate it 3 separate times vs a longer...single plate.

For example how I use to do it is plate it for a longer period......then rinse and steel wool it. Now I've learned it's better to plate... then rinse and steel wool....then do this for a total of 3 times. Then I lightly polish with the amosol polish. It seems a better process thus far with nothing rusting to date. I think the amosol adds a little barrier from the elements as well.
Cool photo in the back of the El Camino.
Thanks grandpaul. This little girl had just as many admirers as J-Lo in a bikini might have. It struck up many conversations with some good folks who remembered these little things when they were younger.

I use air shocks on the elco because it sags horribly with practically any load. One shock has a slow leak which I need to replace. I've been thinking airbags for the back as a replacement for airshocks.

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Discussion Starter · #237 ·
Charged and installed the battery and like the sun rising in the morning......the electrical gremlins are out in full force with a vengeance.

No continuity here....continuity where there should be no continuity...........no ground........then ground.........this is the worst part of this. What's fustrating is I road this with the old battery a couple months ago and this morning I had spark and now none.

So the plan is ultra simple........go thru one wire at a time until everything clicks.

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It's odd considering how good of a condition that wiring harness looks to be in.
 
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